2016/11/02 06:24:03
whitezero
If you wish to check the thermal pad contact on the mosfets and VRam...

 
So what would we do if the thermal pad isn't contacting the VRAM properly?
2016/11/02 06:26:50
Bobmitch
This should be a sticky!  Excellent info
2016/11/02 06:28:33
the_Scarlet_one
Apply slightly thicker thermal pads. The thermal pads they are sending are extremely large, so you may be able to use a piece of the excess to apply to the VRM or VRAM if they do not have contact.

Mine were smashed.. You could see that the thermal pad on the VRAM was so smashed that it had slightly pushed over the edges of the VRAM lol. I am jot sure what is causing the small gap on some of the VRam's that have been shown on the forum. I would guess the stand offs are slightly taller than intended, but again, I do not know for sure.
2016/11/02 06:29:33
the_Scarlet_one
bobmitch
This should be a sticky!  Excellent info


Thanks Bob. It was a sticky until EVGA released their official statement right after I posted this. They deemed the official thread to be the one that gets the sticky, so this one was moved to the regular forum.
2016/11/02 06:33:38
whitezero
Scarlet-Tech
Apply slightly thicker thermal pads. The thermal pads they are sending are extremely large, so you may be able to use a piece of the excess to apply to the VRM or VRAM if they do not have contact.

Mine were smashed.. You could see that the thermal pad on the VRAM was so smashed that it had slightly pushed over the edges of the VRAM lol. I am jot sure what is causing the small gap on some of the VRam's that have been shown on the forum. I would guess the stand offs are slightly taller than intended, but again, I do not know for sure.



Would there really be enough excess pad to cut out bits for all eight VRAM chips? Plus I'd think additional thermal pads couldn't provide as effective cooling as a single, properly contacting pad. Sounds more like we should consider RMA if the VRAM isn't making proper contact. 
2016/11/02 06:45:16
the_Scarlet_one
If you wish to RMA, EVGA will definitely take care of you. I wasn't saying add additional pads, I was saying use a small amount of the new pad. After seeing the amount of thermal pad they are saying to apply, yes, there will be extra. They are covering much more than just the mosfets (the part that actually gets hot) with the thermal pads they are sending. They cover the chokes and a huge section of the back of the pcb. Way more than I expected honestly.
2016/11/02 07:22:01
alhazen
Scarlet-Tech
Let's begin this properly.. This is the guide on how to install the thermal pads for the 1070/1080 FTW.  These thermal pads were not sent to me from EVGA.  These are my spare thermal pads from my watercooling kits, and they are .5mm each.
 
What you need:
 
Phillips screwdriver
Thermal Material (NONCONDUCTIVE/NONCAPACITIVE:  Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, thermal grizzly hydronaut, Artic MX-4, and many others.)
2 pieces of Thermal Tape.  should be 1mm for the backplate and .5mm for the front, or slightly larger
Rubbing alcohol or Articlean 2 part TIM remover
lint free clothes or coffee filters
about 45 minutes worth of time
music in the background.  I suggest classical for those that are susceptible to relaxing with music.  
A workspace the size of a GPU.  
 
 
Step one, Remove all screws from the backplate.  (they have silver rings around them, go for those):

 
Remove the 4 spring screws.  
(Do NOT remove the four screws in the PCB unless you are taking the heat spreader off to check the thermal tape on the VRM and Vram from the factory. If you wish to check the thermal pad contact on the mosfets and VRam, remove the three on the PCb and one on the SLI finger side of the I/O bracket)

 
Turn the card over:

 
Gently twist the ACX slightly to free the TIM on the core, and lift up slightly, then slide it back from the I/O bracket slightly or it will not clear the bracket.

 
Lift the front of the cooler to expose the Fan and LED plugs, and disconnect them (I suggest fan first, since it is easier to reach at this time):

 
Clean the TIM off of the GPU core using Rubbing alcohol or Articlean 2 part TIM cleaner, and apply the thermal pad just behind the chokes, directly above the mosfets: (do NOT reapply thermal paste to the core just yet)

 
Place the cooler on the core, and make sure it fully seats.  Do not connect the fans or LEDs just yet. 

 
Remove the ACX once again, and check for Fin impressions on the thermal pad over the mosfets: (Hard to see in this picture, sorry about that)

 
Reapply Thermal paste with your desired method of application.  I prefer spreading because i KNOW it is on the entire GPU Core.  if you do the pea method or rice method, it may form an air bubble.  Air bubble will cause the GPU to shut down even when temps are low.  the thermal sensor on the core is only in one spot.. If that spot has thermal paste, it will read low temps.  If it read low temps and you get hard locks or black screens that are unrecoverable, simply repeat this step and try a new TIM method.  Again, I prefer spreading. 

 
Reattach the LED plug, then the Fan plug.  

 
Lower the front of the cooler slightly past the lip of the I/O bracket and then into place over the core making sure it seats evenly and properly.

 
Turn the card over, and reinstall the 4 spring screws.  Install them using a cross tightening pattern until they all bottom out properly.  Do not tighten one all the way down, and then the next.

 
Apply the thermal strip (I used two to make a 1mm strip, as I did not have a single 1mm strip) directly over the back of the PCB where the Mosfets are. You can see the resistors or capacitors in a perfect line.. cover them all: 

 
Should look like this:

 
Install the backplate and retighten all of the screws making sure none are missing. You should see a screw in every silver hole and 4 spring screws exposed:

 
*Update 1: Something that every user should keep in mind.  The 700 and 900 series FTW and classifieds utilized the same heat spreader and ACX style design.  They also used louder and faster fans that moved more air through the cooler and across the heat spreader under the cooler.  To get optimal temperatures, you will need to turn the fans up a little more than stock, or use a more aggressive fan profile.  A fan running at 30% is not going to dissipate heat from an air cooler like a fan running at 50%.  On the FTW, Master bios starts the fans at 60c around 35% and on the slave bios, my card runs at max 60c with 50% fan speeds.  My max observed temperature to date is 65c on the slave bios.  Turn your fans up a little and let the air cool you card off.  These thermal pads are NOT going to remove heat if air isn't moving across them.
 
**Update 2: http://www.evga.com/thermalmod/ EVGA just announced they are posting a vBIOS update for the fan speed soon. The thermal pads that EVGA is going to send out are much large than then ones I had available, and will cover the VRM as well as the chokes on the front side of the PCB, and a much larger ares on the back of the card. the EVGA guide is available here: http://www.evga.com/therm...installation_guide.pdf


If our cards already has all the pads except the top can we just add the pads on the back and leave the rest alone. That way we don't have to mess with GPU thermal grease and all the wiring so we don't break anything.
 
I would like to just add the pad like the second to the last picture above here. Thats all. My card has the rest of the pads already.
 
Can someone say thats ok.
2016/11/02 08:31:47
shannonjpower
Ofcourse that's fine, just remove the back plate screws and leave the 4 GPU screws alone. When did you purchase your card? Surprised it already contains the VRM pad.
2016/11/02 08:38:37
the_Scarlet_one
shannonjpower
Ofcourse that's fine, just remove the back plate screws and leave the 4 GPU screws alone. When did you purchase your card? Surprised it already contains the VRM pad.


Just like ShannonJPower said, you can leave the cooler on and only install the pad on the backplate. For that, leave the 4 spring screws installed and removed the rest of the screws that have the silver standoffs.
2016/11/02 09:06:05
alhazen
shannonjpower
Ofcourse that's fine, just remove the back plate screws and leave the 4 GPU screws alone. When did you purchase your card? Surprised it already contains the VRM pad.




I got my card october 4 was shipped Sept 29 Newegg. It had the long pad across the whole board for the vrm and small pads for memory and they look like they are are touching really good.
I have the GTX 1070 FTW 8G
 
Are you saying that the people that are having problems didn't have any pads on their vrm at all? 

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