Anyone have a link to a good guide for how to OC these things?  Apparently I don't know where to start.  I maxed the power/temp target in Precision but literally zero change to power usage and boost clocks.  Water cooled card sitting at a max of 55C depending on how long it's been at load.

bdary
I don't know if there's any guides around, but here's the basics...
 
The power target is a limit.  It allows for a little extra power to be used over the stock 100%.  It's always better if your card doesn't hit that limit as then you won't be limited by power.  You will see different power usage numbers depending on the load on your GPU.  Some games/benches will put higher loads on the card then others.
 
If you slide the voltage slider to max, it allows the card to go up to 1.093v.  Otherwise, the typical voltage I see when the slider is left at 0 is 1.040 to 1.053v.
 
On the core clock, the increments are 15MHz.  Start with OC'ing the core in 15, 30, 45MHz increments etc., testing in between for stability.  Once you have that dialed in, do the same on the memory.  With the memory you can increase in bigger steps like 50, 100, 150MHz etc...  Testing in between increases.

Ah ok that makes sense now.  Thanks for the info.  I remember I watched a video a while back on working with the 1xxx series and it seemed like it might be similar.  I never had any results with the power & voltage slider there either though but I was always running into the power limit on that card (1070 SC Black).  The video had mentioned maxing the power sliders as a way to start but sounds like you need to do more than that.  Time to go see what this FTW can do :)  I've done a lot of CPU overclocking in the past, but not GPU or RAM.  With this Ryzen 3000 build looks like those two items are going to be the tweaking spots this time vs CPU.

55c is high for a water cooled card, that will limit you some as the card will clock down the warmer it gets. If you can keep it under 40 you’ll maintain your higher clock speed longer.

GDDR6 memory can be tricky as it includes error checking. You can set the speed past the point in which errors will be present but there won’t be any visual indication of this. No artifacts or the like, but performance won’t scale with the increase. Most RTX cards should be able to do +500 on the memory without a problem. Good cards that use Micron memory may hit +750 or +1000. Cards that use Samsung memory will do +1200 or +1400.

bp7178
55c is high for a water cooled card, that will limit you some as the card will clock down the warmer it gets. If you can keep it under 40 you’ll maintain your higher clock speed longer.

GDDR6 memory can be tricky as it includes error checking. You can set the speed past the point in which errors will be present but there won’t be any visual indication of this. No artifacts or the like, but performance won’t scale with the increase. Most RTX cards should be able to do +500 on the memory without a problem. Good cards that use Micron memory may hit +750 or +1000. Cards that use Samsung memory will do +1200 or +1400.

It idles around 28-30.  I might need to add a second rad in then when I move stuff to a larger case (which is planned) but I'll probably see how the likely better airflow through the rad in the new case works out first.  I only saw a few degrees difference between my current fan speeds and max, however I don't think I actually tested max pump speed vs the "70%" I have it set at now.  The weird thing is at "70%" it runs at about 4250rpm and 4800 is the 100% speed.  20% the lowest the BIOS curve will go it still runs at 2800 so I guess it must be 70% of some adjustable range not 70% of 0-max speed.
 
edit:  Not sure if it might matter, but the card is the factory hydro copper SKU with the block being factory mounted.

bp7178
55c is high for a water cooled card, that will limit you some as the card will clock down the warmer it gets. If you can keep it under 40 you’ll maintain your higher clock speed longer.

GDDR6 memory can be tricky as it includes error checking. You can set the speed past the point in which errors will be present but there won’t be any visual indication of this. No artifacts or the like, but performance won’t scale with the increase. Most RTX cards should be able to do +500 on the memory without a problem. Good cards that use Micron memory may hit +750 or +1000. Cards that use Samsung memory will do +1200 or +1400.

So I did a bit more looking.  I might look into re-seating and re-TIMing the card when I potentially switch cases in a month or so.  I'm running the factory hydro copper FTW3 and I found a few threads including one here at EVGA that I think you were part of where it was mentioned that people are apparently seeing higher than expected temps on EVGA blocks than with aftermarket ones.  So I'm guessing my 55C under max extended stress might actually be normal for this HC block or at least the factory installation of it.  This is my first water cooling setup ever (AIO or otherwise) so I'm still learning as I go.  I know my temps on the CPU are in line with other Ryzen 3000 series though.
 
edit:  Also as far as factory boost behavior I've noticed it will start out at 2040Mhz and drop to 2010 as it heats up but doesn't go below that.  Most times it's around 2025, but I was seeing 2010 in Control last night after hammering it with 2560x1440p with RTX on High and DLSS turned on which dowscales it to 17xx by ??? and cuts the FPS from 150+ to about 75.  The advertised boost is only 1845, so not sure how much extra I'd get OC'ing it even if I do shave off some temps but we'll see.

I doubt you will see better than 55c on long sessions with a HC card even after re-applying TIM. Some people have posted that they got better results, but I haven’t saw any long term testing. With the higher (+.75mm over EK blocks) gap between the block and GPU the type of thermal paste starts to become a factor more so than normal. Thermal Grizzly Kryo almost becomes runny at high temps, and this will be exacerbated by vertical mountings. I have saw TK K paste run down and pool near the PCIe connector.

The number you’re adding to the GPU, say +100 depends on the base and boost clocks of the card. That +100 may result in a 2190 or a 2000 depending on who you’re talking too. So look for the actual frequency when comparing.

The best thing is to install a temp sensor so you can monitor the temp of the water. You can compare that to your ambient and see how you are doing. A water temp which is 10-15c of ambient is great.

Removing any mesh panels in those top vents will help, as will removing any filters. If dust is a concern, just blow out the case from time to time.