Definitely take off the block to see how much contact you have with the die. My hydro copper block never gets past 49c.

You need to see if the block is making contact with the die. Look at the block and see if the thermal paste has transferred to it evenly. If you don't see much paste on the block than I would clean it off and remount the whole thing again. Use a good amount of paste and spread it over the whole die.

glad it is sorted
 
 
Was the contact pattern - when you pulled it apart - the whole GPU covered ?  Not sitting Flat ?

it was the contact pattern. It was only barely touching the gpu. I just added a little more thermal paste in the middle and bingo the temps dropped like a rock

Wow my mem temps stay under 40 with this gpu waterblock on it. I can’t wait to overclock this card and see what it can do

Glad i read this thread so i know to check, i get my hydro today and can not wait to install it.   This will my first water cooling loop ever, just doing gpu right now.   
 
Shame there are no reviews or install videos on youtube for this model.
 
Do i really need to run 24hr leak test?

Also make sure you put a good amount of thermal paste on the gpu itself. Make sure its a non conductive thermal paste. For the person who asked about my loop I bought a ready made PC minus the video card which I already had. I got the Aventum X from Digital Storm a company that builds computer to buyers specs. Here is a video of my pc https://youtu.be/oUoO3Ik8aIk . It has 15 fans . One 480 rad and another 360 Rad. It’s a beast. I wanted to load a pic but this forum won’t let me.

Robert0507
Also make sure you put a good amount of thermal paste on the gpu itself. Make sure its a non conductive thermal paste. For the person who asked about my loop I bought a ready made PC minus the video card which I already had. I got the Aventum X from Digital Storm a company that builds computer to buyers specs. Here is a video of my pc https://youtu.be/oUoO3Ik8aIk . It has 15 fans . One 480 rad and another 360 Rad. It’s a beast. I wanted to load a pic but this forum won’t let me.

That's serious chuck of change there.  
 
I got thermal grizzly hydronaut so i'm good there

i am having same issue, 85c in heaven, CPU is fine. First i bought an EK GPU block and thought it was bad. reseated it 4 times with more and more paste but 85c it was. RMA'd it and while i was waiting for the replacement i found EVGA makes this so i ordered it. put it together, installed, filled system and burped and same damn thing 85c. i am going to pull it apart and do the spread on GPU and spread on Block method. When i had the AIO on the card max temp was around 68c, i figured custom loop would at least be below or at 60c
 
loop is res, GPU, CPU, Rad, Rad (both 360's) res. temp indicator on GPU in and 1 on CPU in both at 33c idle, and 38-40c load. Flow indicator reads RPM not L/M, but it is spinning at a good clip. 
 
R7 3700x
RTX 2080 FTW3
Asus CH7

kwin222
i am having same issue, 85c in heaven, CPU is fine. First i bought an EK GPU block and thought it was bad. reseated it 4 times with more and more paste but 85c it was. RMA'd it and while i was waiting for the replacement i found EVGA makes this so i ordered it. put it together, installed, filled system and burped and same damn thing 85c. i am going to pull it apart and do the spread on GPU and spread on Block method. When i had the AIO on the card max temp was around 68c, i figured custom loop would at least be below or at 60c
 
loop is res, GPU, CPU, Rad, Rad (both 360's) res. temp indicator on GPU in and 1 on CPU in both at 33c idle, and 38-40c load. Flow indicator reads RPM not L/M, but it is spinning at a good clip. 
 
R7 3700x
RTX 2080 FTW3
Asus CH7

kwin222
ok, temps dropped 5c, this is just insane. Good flow, most likely more then enough thermal paste, i am about fed up with this.
 

I would focus on the loop as it's clearly not the GPU or the WBs.
 
What fittings are you using?  I ask because they might have too long of a thread and that could block some flow going into the block.  I say this since there's so many fittings being sold today, including no names that could be out of spec as opposed to the name brand ones that have been out for a while.

>>>>>>>>>>> Do Not Remove the Back Plate when installing the EVGA Hydro Copper Water Block <<<<<<<<<<<
Spread the Thermal Paste on both the GPU Die and the Water Block.
Place the Water Block on an even sold surface allowing the Slot Bracket and the Inlet/Outlet over the edge to allow the Water Block to lay Flat.
Place the PCB on Top of the Water Block Line up all the Screw Holes and Place the PCB Down on the Block.
Install all the Screws Half Way in Only until all the screws are in place.
Leave off the last Screw that uses the Nut.
Place Pressure on the Center of the Black Plate above the GPU Die and Hold this Pressure.
Screw in the all the Screw Flush in a Circle Clockwise or Counter Clockwise Circle but not tight until are screws are Flush.
#1 Keeping the Pressure on the Center of the Black Plate above the GPU Die Screw Down the Screws in a Counter Clockwise Circle or Clockwise Circle.
Repeat #1
Install the Screw & Nut now.
Keeping the Pressure on the Center of the Black Plate above the GPU Die Screw Down Tight all the Screws in a Circle Clockwise or Counter Clockwise Circle.

Every time you reapply TIM, clean it up all up and start over, if this was done disregard.  Try a small rice size on the GPU or spread it thin across it.  When putting the blocks together, try not moving it around or you'll create parts of the GPU without TIM.  Try your best on aligning the holes before making full contact so the movement is lessened.  

good grief, i finally got it!! with 4 more tear downs since my last post. to whoever lands here as i have, pay attention. it is not a product flaw, and it is not the amount of paste applied. it is literally damn near perfect contact between the block and the GPU. This last time I cleaned paste up off the block, and GPU. Applied a thin layer and used the spread method on both surfaces. Before I tore it apart this last time, I went to Home Depot and got a smallish bar clamp with a 3.5” throat. I placed the assembled unit down, plexi to the table and made sure it was flat. Overhung the bracket to the left, and the water ports to the front. Started all the screws being sure to only go halfway in.  Grabbed my clamp and positioned it right smack in the middle of the 4 screws for the GPU bracket (I forgot to put this back on by the way) and clamped it down. I did not use too much pressure, I did not want the PCB to flex. Just enough to make positive and even contact of the GPU and the block. While clamp was in place, I proceeded to tighten the screws, around the GPU block first and then moved outward from there until all were tight.
 
Water pump at 40%, fans on both 360’s at 600RPM and max temp is 65, and I am now seeing the water temps rise and fall, I was not before. Fans and pump wide open and max temp I am seeing is 48c and that’s with a decent OC of clock at 2130 and mem at 7750. There is a 5 degree difference between water temp from water in at the GPU and water out at the CPU, water temps that make since. 
 
 
 
 

kwin222
good grief, i finally got it!! with 4 more tear downs since my last post. to whoever lands here as i have, pay attention. it is not a product flaw, and it is not the amount of paste applied. it is literally damn near perfect contact between the block and the GPU. This last time I cleaned paste up off the block, and GPU. Applied a thin layer and used the spread method on both surfaces. Before I tore it apart this last time, I went to Home Depot and got a smallish bar clamp with a 3.5” throat. I placed the assembled unit down, plexi to the table and made sure it was flat. Overhung the bracket to the left, and the water ports to the front. Started all the screws being sure to only go halfway in.  Grabbed my clamp and positioned it right smack in the middle of the 4 screws for the GPU bracket (I forgot to put this back on by the way) and clamped it down. I did not use too much pressure, I did not want the PCB to flex. Just enough to make positive and even contact of the GPU and the block. While clamp was in place, I proceeded to tighten the screws, around the GPU block first and then moved outward from there until all were tight.
 
Water pump at 40%, fans on both 360’s at 600RPM and max temp is 65, and I am now seeing the water temps rise and fall, I was not before. Fans and pump wide open and max temp I am seeing is 48c and that’s with a decent OC of clock at 2130 and mem at 7750. There is a 5 degree difference between water temp from water in at the GPU and water out at the CPU, water temps that make since. 
 
 
 
 

Does it state this process in the instructions?  My mistake when installing my block (high temps too) was watching the EVGA youtube video on installing the block instead of using the instructions.  If this isnt in the instructions it may be helpful to put it there so people dont have this issue.  Everywhere i read no one seems to have issues with EK but they do in some cases with the Hydrocopper.  I'm not saying its a design flaw but maybe they should put this in as part of the install process to avoid these negative issues.
 
I will try and re-install mine like this and see if there is a difference.  Thanks for the advice. This is what ive been looking for!

You must establish proper contact before tightening the mounting hardware & have the thermal pads & wires out of the way

Keeping the cooler parallel & against the GPU die - is very important, always been this way
- Clean
- Apply TIM & Pads
- Route & connect wires
- Align & lay cooler on Card
- Install All screws loosely
- Tighten the GPU (4) screws - gradually in an X pattern - keep it parallel (flat against the GPU die)
- Work outwards from GPU die to tighten the rest of the screws - (working gradually in the X pattern)
 
edit for clarity