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Hot!Removing nikel plating?

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austin86
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2022/03/21 08:02:18 (permalink)
Recently I been thinking of ways to remove the problematic nickel plating on older EK block. Sand blasting is one way but I'm not a fan of it as it often damages the outside of the block and possibly the grove were the o-ring go's. A steel wire brush works rather well at removing the lose plating but does not work well at removing the plating that is still good. What about acid baths? Anyone try walnut blasting? Any other ideas?


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    ty_ger07
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/03/21 19:50:54 (permalink)
    None of my EK blocks have had plating issues. I wonder why yours have. Lots of people have. Was I just lucky? Or is it because I don't use harsh cleaning chemicals, nuke, silver, or vinegar?

    You shouldn't wire wheel it. Any metallic abrasive you use will embed itself in the copper (even microscopically) and then cause a lot bigger corrosion problem. You should use a non-metallic abbrasive; like a scotchbrite wheel.
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    austin86
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/03/21 20:34:05 (permalink)
    ty_ger07
    None of my EK blocks have had plating issues. I wonder why yours have. Lots of people have. Was I just lucky? Or is it because I don't use harsh cleaning chemicals, nuke, silver, or vinegar?


    Ether you had the blocks for a very short time or your are so lucky you need to go drop all you life savings on a horse at the track.
    Also the silver/biocide thing was a lie pushed by ek. Ek unlike most other companies use electroplating but the skimp and only use a one step process for the longest time so over time no matter what the blocks will flake at sone point. Some more then others as they at started to use a more conventional 2 step process. If you look closely you can tell a big difference in the finish of their blocks compared to say bitspower or koolance.
    ty_ger07
    You shouldn't wire wheel it. Any metallic abrasive you use will embed itself in the copper (even microscopically) and then cause a lot bigger corrosion problem. You should use a non-metallic abbrasive; like a scotchbrite wheel.

    I done that many times and never once had that happen. But I do clean the block rather aggressively with sand paper afterwards.


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    ty_ger07
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/03/22 04:32:40 (permalink)
    I have been using EK blocks since 14 years ago. Not one has had problems with missing nickle plating. My current blocks are over 5 years old.
    austin86
    ty_ger07
    You shouldn't wire wheel it. Any metallic abrasive you use will embed itself in the copper (even microscopically) and then cause a lot bigger corrosion problem. You should use a non-metallic abbrasive; like a scotchbrite wheel.

    I done that many times and never once had that happen. But I do clean the block rather aggressively with sand paper afterwards.

    Okay then, good luck. I am just saying that you shouldn't. People in the metal fabrication industry know. Bits of dissimilar metal dislodge in there (even microscopically) and create many dissimilar metal corrosive cells.
    post edited by ty_ger07 - 2022/03/22 04:39:54
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    austin86
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/03/22 06:20:35 (permalink)
    ty_ger07
    I have been using EK blocks since 14 years ago. Not one has had problems with missing nickle plating. My current blocks are over 5 years old.

    Are you sure, sometime it only happens n the fins and isn't all to viable without taking the block apart.

    ty_ger07
    Okay then, good luck. I am just saying that you shouldn't. People in the metal fabrication industry know. Bits of dissimilar metal dislodge in there (even microscopically) and create many dissimilar metal corrosive cells.

    Folks who work in metal fab would realize rads have brass in them and d5 pump internals are mostly steel. Wire brushes tend to be made of ether brass or stainless steel. Brass is by no means a problem if its logged in the copper block and stainless wile can rust it not at big of a deal as mild steel used in cheap wire wheels. Sanding the block afterwords should prevent anything being left behind. 
    Now if I was using straight distilled and a mild steel brush then Id be worried big time, that is a disaster waiting to happen.


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    ty_ger07
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/03/22 07:53:32 (permalink)
    Why ask the question?
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    austin86
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/03/22 10:50:02 (permalink)
    ty_ger07
    Why ask the question?

    Because there has to be a better way. Sandblasting is hard on the block, wireweels mostly only removed the lose platting and sanding takes a very long time.


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    ty_ger07
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/05/15 12:07:28 (permalink)
    austin86
    Either you had the blocks for a very short time or you're are so lucky you need to go drop all you life savings on a horse at the track.

    Just did the recommended 3-year coolant change on my 4.5-year-old block.
     

     
    austin86
    Also the silver/biocide thing was a lie pushed by ek.

    Pushed by EK? Sure. Lie? Absolutely not; it's science.  Like the science which says not to use a metallic abrasive on a water block.

    It matters what the metallic abrasive is made of, but even if it were the exact same metal, difference in hardness from machining the block vs the brush would still lead to galvanic reaction of any metal that embeds into the block. You don't want different metals in contact with eachother in the presence of a liquid. Different doesn't just mean the type of metal. Galvanic includes brass vs copper, stainless vs copper, hard copper vs soft copper, and any other combination of metal touching metal.


    If you must remove the plating in the laziest and quickest way possible, bead blasting seems like a good option.
    post edited by ty_ger07 - 2022/05/15 20:42:31
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    austin86
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/05/16 06:12:15 (permalink)
    ty_ger07
    Pushed by EK? Sure. Lie? Absolutely not; it's science.  Like the science which says not to use a metallic abrasive on a water block.

    It matters what the metallic abrasive is made of, but even if it were the exact same metal, difference in hardness from machining the block vs the brush would still lead to galvanic reaction of any metal that embeds into the block. You don't want different metals in contact with eachother in the presence of a liquid. Different doesn't just mean the type of metal. Galvanic includes brass vs copper, stainless vs copper, hard copper vs soft copper, and any other combination of metal touching metal.

    lol the impeller shaft in 99.99% of pumps is stainless, the internal housing of the d5 pump is also stainless. stainless is just as far from sliver on the Galvanic table. yet no one has any problems with that?
    Oh and the zinc/lead solder used in rads, oh ya that's just as from from nickle on the Galvanic table as silver too. But its not a problem ether ?
    And why is this only ever a problem with EK blocks? and why did EK back track on the statements? 
     
    But this is all 100% moot, Galvanic corrosion is NOT the problem, its cheap platting that falls off the block.
     
    Also "hardness from machining" What? you have to be kidding?


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    ty_ger07
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    Re: Removing nikel plating? 2022/05/16 10:17:43 (permalink)
    Mixed metals a long distance apart are not a big deal, when using adequate coolant.
    Mixed metals in direct contact with eachother are a big deal. If you embed different metal into metal and then cover it with liquid, you are going to have problems.
    Hardness affects the metal's galvanic characteristics. I'm splitting hairs here obviously, but the point is that stainless and brass are an obvious problem when considering that hard copper vs soft copper could be a problem. Again, if you EMBED stainless or brass inside of copper, you are going to have problems. I'm not talking about just having them in different places within the loop.
    The guy with a screwed up block giving advice to the guy with the not screwed up block. ... yeah, I'll ignore your opinion.

    Thanks for asking for input!
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