BASICS
What EVGA X99 Motherboard do you have?  Please place an X between the parentheses of the model number you are referencing.
 
()  131-HE-E995                       ()  131-HE-E095                       ()  150-HE-E997                      
(X)  151-HE-E999
 
What BIOS revision are you running on? 
 stock

What previous BIOS revisions have been tried?
 
(IF APPLICABLE) have the other physical BIOS’s been tested?
*NOTE*  Not all motherboards have this switch and depending on the model there can be a 2 or 3 position BIOS switch.  Please see the manuals for the specific boards here:
X99 Classified:  http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/151-HE-E999_Part1_v2.pdf go to page 8, number 33 on the mid right side of the board just below the 24 pin.
X99 FTW:  http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/150-HE-E997_Part1_v2.pdf go to page 8, number 30 on the mid right side of the board just below the 24 pin.
X99 Micro2, and X99 Micro do not have multiple BIOS’s
 
What Operating system are you running?  Be sure to specify Standard, Pro, Ultimate, and 32 or 64bit.
 
Components -Internal
What specific model CPU do you have?
            Is it overclocked?  Please place an X next to appropriate answer.    Yes: ()  No: ()
            If you are overclocked, what speed is the CPU running at?
What cooling solution is installed?  If it is water cooled, specify make and model of All-In-One kit (for instance H100i), or FULL specs and order of components in the custom loop.
CPU cooler is Corsair H110i
 
What are your temperatures, in Celsius, for CPU and GPU both at idle and under load in a benchmark?
            What bench marking software are you using?
 

What specific model of memory do you have?
            How many kits of memory?
            Is it overclocked?  Please place an X next to appropriate answer.    Yes: ()  No: (X)
            If you have tested DIFFERENT memory, please supply the full model for this as well.
Corsair 2x8GB Vengeance LPX 

What specific model of Power Supply Unit (PSU) - EVGA 120-G2-100-XR 80 Plus Gold
            Do you actively use more than 1 PSU in your system?  Yes: ()  No: (X)
            If YES to the previous question, what exact model?
            Have you tested with a different PSU?  Yes: ()  No: ()
            If YES to the previous question, what exact model?
            How old are the PSU(s) in question? 1 month
            Check all attached MOTHERBOARD power headers:
            (X) 24 Pin           (X) 8pin EPS 1    (X) 8pin EPS2     () 6pin PCIE on bottom of motherboard
*If the EPS is plugged in and the release is not on the same side as the tab on the MB EPS header, then you likely have a PCIE 8 pin header plugged in.  Detach immediately and do NOT power on as this may cause irreparable damage.**
EPS connector is shown http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/151-HE-E999_Part1_v2.pdf page 8 number 29, there is a tab on the top that the clip of a power cable holds onto.  You can see a more clear picture of the cable here:  http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/151-HE-E999_Part2.pdf page 7.  The tab on the socket and the release on the cable have to click over each other.  If not, please get a picture and post it in your troubleshooting thread and we will assist further, do NOT turn it on if these are not aligned.
 
Check the slots that are populated and provide specific of Component, brand, part number if available of the item present.  If the slot is NOT populated please list it as “Empty”, “Unused”, or something to give clear indication that a slot is NOT in use, so there is no grey area in the configuration.
Not all slots are applicable to every board, but this form covers the entire chipset.
The slot listings below are counting ALL slots of 1x, 4x, and 16x from top to bottom, this is not only for the full size slots.
 
Note: PCI-E 1 is ALWAYS the slot closest to the CPU, and the numbers count up as you move down the board.
 
()  PCI-E 1:
            PCI-E Disable Switch in the ON position?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
 
()  PCI-E 2: 
            PCI-E Disable Switch in the ON position?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
 
()  PCI-E 3: 
            PCI-E Disable Switch in the ON position?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
 
()  PCI-E 4: 
            PCI-E Disable Switch in the ON position?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
 
()  PCI-E 5: 
            PCI-E Disable Switch in the ON position?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
 
()  PCI-E 6: 
            PCI-E Disable Switch in the ON position?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
 
()  M.2 Key M: (Typically used for SSD's)
            Enabled in BIOS?  Yes: ()  No: ()
 
()  M.2 Key E: (Typically used for smaller  devices such as WiFi cards)
            Enabled in BIOS?  Yes: ()  No: ()
 
()  SATA3/6g RAID Ports (please elaborate on RAID settings if present):
            Is Hot Swap enabled on populated ports?  Yes: ()  No: ()
 
()  SATA3/6g AHCI Ports:
            Is Hot Swap enabled on populated ports?  Yes: ()  No: ()
 
If you are overclocking your video card(s), please include what software and what version you are using.
 
 
Components – I/O Panel
Check the slots that are populated and provide specific of Component, brand, part number if available of the item present.
Not all slots are applicable to every board, but this form covers the entire chipset.
 
All rear IO that have multiple connectors, such as USB, are counted top to bottom, left to right.
 
()  USB 2.0 1: 
 
()  USB 2.0 2: 
 
()  USB 2.0 3: 
 
()  USB 2.0 4: 
 
()  USB 2.0 5: 
 
()  USB 2.0 6: 
 
()  USB 3.0 1: 
 
()  USB 3.0 2: 
 
()  USB 3.0 3: 
 
()  USB 3.0 4: 
 
()  USB 3.1 Type C: 
 
()  CAT5 1 (enabled/disabled in BIOS): 
 
()  CAT5 2 (enabled/disabled in BIOS): 
 
()  Analog Audio headers (standard 2 /2.1 speakers or headphones use green):
 
()  Optical Out
 
Components – Front Panel Headers
Check the components that are in use and provide specific of Component, brand, part number, or link (such as a 5.25 bay that has USB 2/3/eSATA on it) if available of the item present.  Also what are these ports plugged into?  A straight header (such as a power switch or front headphone and mic ports), or a component with its own PCB (for instance the module on the top of a CM Cosmos Case where the components are attached to a PCB with other components involved for additional function). 
Not all slots are applicable to every board, but this form covers the entire chipset.
 
At any header are you using some intermediary cabling, such as: http://koolance.com/image/cache/data/products/cbl-aw002p_p1-700x700.jpg for example?  If the system was working and can no longer power on and there is a third party cable between the motherboard and its intended device, it would be advisable to test without it being present.
 
(X)  Power Switch
            LED in use?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
            If yes, have you verified +/- in correct place?
           
(X)  Reset Switch
            LED in use?  Yes: (X)  No: ()
            If yes, have you verified +/- in correct place?
 
()  USB 2.0 FP Header attached
 
(X)  USB 3.0 FP Header attached
 
()  S/PDIF Header
 
()  FP Audio Header
 
()  Thunderbolt GPIO Header
 
 
BIOS
Have you changed anything in the BIOS?  Yes: ()  No: (X)
            If yes, are these basic settings such as boot order, raid enabling, XMP, etc.?
 
Is your PC running in Legacy BIOS mode, or UEFI mode?  If you are unsure, go into the BIOS, under BOOT,  go to CSM Configuration and list all of the settings in that menu.
 
Have you overclocked?  Yes: ()  No: (X)
Please go over EXACT setting changes from stock on the BIOS. 
Please include EVERY voltage adjustment and value/frequency that was changed, and what it was changed to.
 
Have yo tried resetting the BIOS, either by one of the BIOS reset buttons or by Loading Defaults from within the BIOS?
 
If you have a pic hosting account, for instance at flickr or something else of that nature, full pics of your BIOS, or at least what you have changed being posted here then linking to the album could be VERY helpful as well.
 
Problem description
Please be as specific as possible
 Had a momentary power loss in the house. After power was restored, the PC won't boot. I see a flashing red light under the 24-pin connector and a flashing white light under that. The power light also blinks momentarily.
 
 
Steps taken so far to resolve the issue
Please be as specific as possible, also if possible, please put them in order, as in some cases that can make a difference.
 I've tried the front power switch on the case. I've tried the power switch on the motherboard. I've unplugged the system for 15 minutes or more and tried again.
 
 
If there is anything else you think needs to be mentioned that is not part of the above Q&A, please add it in below.  Remember, for those of us who can help out for troubleshooting, we would always rather have more info than we need than not enough.
 
 I'm not totally computer savvy but the computer was working great before the momentary power loss. All my monitors and other components plugged into my surge protector are powering on just fine. I don't know where to start. Everything in the system is only one month old.
 

Try holding down on the clear Cmos button for 5+ seconds and than switch the PSU off till the lights go out and than turn back on.  Hold the Cmos button down again for a few seconds and than try powering it on with the on-board Power on Buttons on the motherboard.

gtxjackbauer
Try holding down on the clear Cmos button for 5+ seconds and than switch the PSU off till the lights go out and than turn back on.  Hold the Cmos button down again for a few seconds and than try powering it on with the on-board Power on Buttons on the motherboard.

Thanks. This didn't change anything.

Is the Power Connector from the Case to the Motherboard match up to + and 1 and the Power Switch connected Pin 1 to Pin 1?
Can you take a photo and post here so we can see how your cables are plugged into the MB and the PSU?
 
Stock is no help, can you post the Bios Number>? 
What BIOS revision are you running on? 
 stock
 
What Operating system are you running?
 
What is the Model Number of your Vengeance Memory?
Corsair 2x8GB Vengeance LPX
 IS THIS CORRECT: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2 Power Supply P/N: 120-G2-1000-XR is your Power Supply?
Unplug the Power Cable from the Power Supply for 5 minutes with the switch in the Off Position. O
Turn OFF the ECO Switch, None if you have the 120-G2-1000-XR PSU.
Are you on a USP or a Power Strip?
 
 

bcavnaugh
Is the Power Connector from the Case to the Motherboard match up to + and 1 and the Power Switch connected Pin 1 to Pin 1?
Can you take a photo and post here so we can see how your cables are plugged into the MB and the PSU?

Power has been hooked up for a month and the PC has been running just fine until the power went out.

bcavnaugh 
Stock is no help, can you post the Bios Number>? 
What BIOS revision are you running on? 
stock
 

How can I get the BIOS number if the PC wont turn on?

bcavnaugh
What Operating system are you running?
 

Windows 10 when the PC is working.

bcavnaugh
What is the Model Number of your Vengeance Memory?
Corsair 2x8GB Vengeance LPX
 IS THIS CORRECT: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2 Power Supply P/N: 120-G2-1000-XR is your Power Supply?
Unplug the Power Cable from the Power Supply for 5 minutes with the switch in the Off Position. O
Turn OFF the ECO Switch, None if you have the 120-G2-1000-XR PSU.
Are you on a USP or a Power Strip?

CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 2666 (PC4 21300) is the memory I have. CMK16GX4M2A2666C16 is the model #.
120-G2-1000-XR is my PSU
 
I use a power strip. Probably time for a UPS.

If you have lights on the mb you probably have AC power into the system. But just to check, remove the power strip and plug directly into a WORKING AC outlet. If you can, check the AC voltage level at the outlet. Some of those LCD power meters will read out you AC voltages.
 
If the system refuses to power up after being plugged in to a known good outlet, then start troubleshooting the power supply and then the components plugged into the mb. You may toasted one or both. I also like to set the power fail options in BIOS to "Remain Off" after a power failure so the system does not to reboot in brown out conditions.
 
Sometimes a power failure/brownout can damage components in unpredictable ways. That is why it is good to have both transient filtration as well as a UPS. Some UPS manufacturers claim they provide transient/voltage spike protection but most are no more than an MOV here or there. I use Furman voltage transient linear filtration on top of what is in a UPS like an APC.

marcusmmc
Magically, the computer booted up about an hour before my shift at work started (I work at home so that is a good thing!). Because of that, I can only assume that the PSU is good. Maybe something is messed up with the mother board but how do I test that?
 
Anyway, this process has really scared the crap out of me and I'm shopping for a UPS and with my research, I've read that the PSU I'm using only takes "pure sine wave" capable UPS's. Others say the PWM sine wave is just fine. Any thoughts or experience?

You'll pay big bucks for the pure sine wave output UPS. They also use a lot of standby power because the inverters producing the sine wave have to be running continuously in order to switch in fast enough to catch a fast power failure. The pseudo square wave types have worked for computer systems for many years so there should not be a problem using them. I would spend any extra cash on a decent transient filter system you put AHEAD of the UPS. Like this one:
 
http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=01&id=PL-8C
 
It will also serve as a power strip.

Word of advice. Don't skimp on good UPS.
 
Most important thing is pure sine-wave. Not simulated, not PWM or any other, Pure. Furthermore, most (like 100%) cheaper (customer) UPS do not support/function properly with active PFC in the PSU. For example from APC, everything outside SmartUPS family officially don't support PFC. PSU work most of the times, but I learned the hard way myself, that it can go terribly wrong sometimes. With Cyber Power it's very similar that only enterprise/server has PFC support.
 
Don't waste time on "On-line" technology. UPS of this particular type are cheaper or much cheaper than Line-In, and while they offer superb quality power (basically PC is running from battery all the time to guarantee perfection of the power supply) the major downside is that noise is insane (remember these are for industry where nobody cares about noise so 60-70dB fans are normal) and life expectancy of battery pack is about half of than on Line-In. If manufacturer recommends 3 year replacement period (read: spend money needlessly because good battery is OK for twice that) then for On-Line it'll be 18 months or so.

High End UPS
  CyberPower PR1500LCD Smart App Sinewave UPS 1500VA 1050W SNMP/HTTP Mini-Tower
 
Low End UPS
 APC BR1500G Back-UPS Pro 1500VA 10-outlet Uninterruptible Power Supply

This is an old thread, but I just had the same issue and came across it while trying to figure out what might be happening. I pulled the USB3 case connector from the motherboard and a 2 seconds later it powered back up. My system is a x99 classified.