WOW!!!
Thanks!!!
I have no idea how to put this together, what are the 14 compression fittings for?
Can I dye the distilled water with food coloring?
How long will it take to get the liquid flowing and cooling the processor from the moment I first turn it on? Will it do damage?

Does the reservoir mount on the rad?
How do the 2 pumps work together?
   Forgive me, I am such a n00b at this!

andrewrp
...
The radiator seems to be the worst! Are you sure?
Just look at high the numbers are!!!! The blue bar is the highest of them all!!!
...

 
I don't think you are going to be running 600RPM fans.  Read the graphs!  Choose your desired fan speed then select the radiator with the lowest number:

 

andrewrp

So do I drill the holes in the case to attach the reservoir?
Will detaching the top void the warranty?
So I just unscrew the pump housing and put the rest of the components in http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_769&products_id=26241

P.S. (I PM'ed you back!)

 
Yup you drill in the case to attach the res. I believe Loveha has his res (the one I linked) attached with velcro, but I use the included screws on mine.
 
Detaching the top shouldn't void the warranty, you can always just reattach the stock top.
 
Attaching the top should be easy enough, you just take the stock tops off of both pumps, and then attach that one.

andrewrp

Seems great...
Thanks!
I feel much better about water cooling now.
But I still have 3 more questions:
Using those compression fittings can someone point me to a video or tutorial, I am not very familiar with them... what is that about the hairdryer (I don't want to fry my components, LOL!)
Using this water cooling, can I overclock to 5 GHZ?
Is it possible to OVERCOOL a cpu?

the 5690 allegedly can OC to 5Ghz, but remember, OCing CPU is as much luck as it is math. If you are lucky, you will get a CPU made by their best crew and it's materials are primo. If you are not lucky you will get the last CPU made on Friday by the guy Intel just fired, made with microscopically flawed material. It will still work by has poor OC capacity.
 
About the hairdryer, you can assemble much of the loop outside of the case, and the few things you need to assemble inside the case can be assembled carefully. You wouldn't attach the block to the CPU and then start wrestling with the fittings. You might dry fit the block on the CPU just to measure things out, but when it comes to fittings, you protect the motherboard and such by not assembling on the board. Maybe you even cover things with towels.
 
With methods different from watercooling, you can theoretically "over-cool" (freeze and shatter) a CPU, but I have never heard of that happening. You would need to be using liquid nitrogen or liquid helium cooling methods.

WOW!!! 
I WANT LIQUID NITROGEN OR LIQUID HELIUM COOLING SO I CAN OVERCLOCK TO 6-7 GHZ!!!!

The thread should be G1/4".
 
The ID of the tubing should be 7/16", with the OD of 5/8".
 
Regarding Liquid Nitrogen, and Liquid Helium... They are temporary uses. As in you cannot use them for 24/7 cooling. And it requires constant attention to pot temperatures, meaning you have to pour.. Also they are very dangerous substances if you are inexperienced with extreme cooling. So I have to recommend you stick with liquid cooling.
 
Another option is Phase Change, but that is very, very expensive.

I'm in the final stages of a W/C monster build for my son. Here's what I'm doing and some thoughts on things to avoid. First...forget the colored water/coolants, they're all crap. Skinee's tested but common sense should prevail even without that. The dye always ends up gunking up something and none of the "super coolants" offer truthful info.,...they all lie. Double distilled turns out to be R.O. filtered, etc. Pure H2O has no salts or minerals in it and as such does not conduct. The more crap they add to the water the more likely it is to conduct. Just stick with straight distilled water and save your dough. If you need pretty colors try colored hose.
 
Same goes for plated/painted finishes on copper water blocks. Copper is about the best thing going all by itself. Again, let common sense prevail. How would coating the copper with nickel, chrome or anything else make it anything but less efficient. If you just want pretty that's another thing altogether. Even the makers will admit that the different finishes improve nothing performance wise.
 
Last bit of common sense prevailing; how could water that has been warmed even one or two degrees as it passes through a CPU water block cool as well as colder water that has not. Independent loops to each high heat source will provide better cooling assuming one has the flow rates balanced and adequate circulation provided. The benefits are negligible in most over clocks, but as the extreme of the over clock and temperature differentials between the two CPU's climb so will the importance of a balanced system vs. a series loop that just keeps picking up less and less heat as it passes each successive heat source. The Delta T shrink is a direct reflection of the coolant's ability to pick up heat and carry it away.
The issue of what is the best water block for a given set up can be a little trickier. Theoretically the faster the water flows, the quicker heat is taken away, the better the object generating heat is cooled...to a point. From that perspective the least restrictive blocks should be the best cooling, but that is dependent on the rate of flow. Too slow and the coolant is maxed out on the heat that it can carry before it can escape the heat exchange area within the block, too fast seems to be less of a problem. This is not meant to be a treatise on hydro-thermal dynamics but the variables are considerable and the sales blather is usually loaded with much unfounded wishful thinking.
The ability of the heat expelling exchange is also limiting in terms of flow rate and system design. The max rate of flow for picking up heat from the blocks might be 4, 6 or even 8 gpm, but the radiators may only be capable of returning the coolant to ambient temps. at a flow rate of half that. Again theoretically this would require that the number of radiators be double to roughly equal the heat gain in the example.
 
The build that I am doing is not in any way something that I would recommend and it is by no means budget conscious. The rig is being installed in a custom desk in a fairly small home office where noise and the limits of the home's central A.C. system required an unusual approach. I just chose to take it a few steps beyond what was needed because I was dismayed with the overall quality of componentry and the unfounded claims that many makers sell from. Lastly, some of the vendors' customer service just sucks and I refuse to do business with folks like that no matter how good their widget.
 
The cooling system that I'm building starts with a stainless steel Taco circulating pump that is more commonly seen moving water through radiant hot water home heating systems. The pump, radiators and fans are all in the basement crawlspace where ambient air temps stay between 65 and 72 degrees year round. The coolant is carried through 1 1/2" CPVC to a copper and stainless manifold. The manifold has eight 1/2" ports where compression fittings are used exclusively. The compression fittings are superior to the barb and clamp styles accept where space is a concern. Both a typically employed without issue due to the low operating pressures of computer water cooling systems, but I prefer the higher pressure reliability of compression.
 
The manifold is normally used for hydronic radiant home heating as well and comes with an adjustable flow meter and vale for each port. To this is added an in-line flow through temperature sensor so that when dialing in flow rates each line will also show an individual corresponding temperature. Each water block will be on a separate loop so that each will be provided with the same cooling potential. To balance CPU temps it may prove necessary to reduce the rate of flow to one or the other so that their operating temperatures can be more closely matched and thereby hopefully improve overall performance in an extreme O.C.
Once the coolant leaves the blocks it enters another manifold, another single pipe and is then returned to the cool room where the radiators reside. Initially the (4) rads will be arranged in two series pairs. Each radiator has four pusher and four pulling fans. During the heating season the warm air scavenged from the radiators is blown into the crawlspace to help temper the home's heating load. This spring I intend to create a separate ground loop to try using the earth as a cooling heat sink during the A.C. season. If all works as planned the radiators will be by-passed for the summer altogether and the rig's heat load will add nothing to the whole house cooling load.
 
A partial justification for the elaborateness of this system was the idea of creating a single set up that multiple computers might possibly be cooled through while allowing the computer heat energy to be used elsewhere in the house or dumped altogether without adding to the home's already considerable cooling load. Providing a silent work environment is also a significant benefit.
 
Another issue with deciding to go this route was the relative cost of existing high performance cooling systems available commercially. The Koolance external systems in particular would end up running several thousand dollars to approach the amount of cooling capacity that my plumber's nightmare will provide. The core components and piping, not including water blocks, but including sensors, 1/2" Tygon, S/S pump, manifold, fittings,etc. has cost about $1,800 and should provide almost twice the cooling capacity of two of the Koolance ERM copper systems. Once fittings, hose and sundry extras are added to the Koolance systems they would cost even more.  Most importantly my pump, valves and manifolds are all intended to be operated for decades, not just until the warranty dies. Nothing on Koolance fans but their customer service made them a non-starter with me a few years ago and I don't go back.
 
My comparison to the dual Koolance ERM set-ups does not include the cost of my intended ground loop, but it does include (4) Black Ice GTX 560 Extreme radiators and (32) Yate Loon fans. This is heat exchange that the ERM's can't touch. More importantly, my pump system allows me to move the heat out of the room completely. The stand beside Koolance system just takes the heat out of the box and spreads it around the room where the system it's cooling is sitting...ultimately raising the ambient temperature and eventually decreasing its ability to continue cooling under extreme load. Not meaning to pick on Koolance but an SR-2 build using just such a set up was my original inspiration for this build in the first place.
 
At this point the rig is still running on air with a pair Cooler Master Hyper 212's w/ extra fans just to get all of the hardware functioning and the hard drives sorted out (started with weeks of frustration working with an OCZ Ibis drive - ...Satan spawn...) but now back to SSD RAID. All of the components are on hand except the monitoring/control software for the cooling system. That will probably push it over the two grand mark, but as mentioned, the hope is that this will efficiently cool several systems.

greatest thread ever.

I see the fittings, but I do not see the compatible block. Can I have a link, please? I also do not see the compatible pump top or rad.

So I should get the 3/8" barb for 3/8" ID tube?

CRAP!!
I knew the SR-2 was big, but I never knew it was THIS BIG!
It is HUGE!!!
You could EASILY fit a small-ish computer in the box it came in!!!!

Ahhhhhh that sucks!

No idea honestly I would guess at latest april..

Thanks.
I am now beginning my search for FANS.
I like the ULTRA KAZE 3000 RPM, primarily because of its high airflow. One thing I am not fond of is the noise. If I use a fan controller, could I bring down the noise and rpm during periods of low usage? What are your opinions?