So I'm doing my first loop because the ftw3 2080ti is just to hot and loud. If I knew I was going to WC I would of saved a few hundred bucks and got something else.....womp womp womp. 
 
So I like the idea of an external rad for easier maintenance and I can pretty much keep the inside of my PC case super tidy and transition back to air easier if need be.
 
I have some questions about D5 pumps in series. I like the idea of redundancy, being able to run the pump at a quieter setting and the increased head pressure if I decide to use QDC. Also, not to sure about temp and flow sensors placement.
 
 
 
Case - Fractal design s2
GPU block - evga hydrocopper ftw3 2080 ti
CPU block - Heatkiller pro iv
Rad - heatkiller MO-RA3 pro 420 
Rad Fans - 4 or 8 noctua nf-a20
Tubing - 10/16 non glossy black tubing
Fittings - barrow 10/16
Pump/res combo - Heatkiller with D5 pump
Second pump - d5 pump with heatkiller top
PCI passthrough in the vertical bracket mount.
 
Here is my first draft of the general idea....I'm still learning, but would appreciate some feedback. 
 
What do you think so far ?
 
https://imgur.com/eqej40g
 

1 D5 will have no issues with your loop.  If your not running the PC unattended 24x7 you could just "stock" a spare pump.

This is a Huge external radiator, that you picked out  Heatkiller MO-RA3 pro 420


I find the 45mm & 60mm thick radiators to be the better ones from a cooling point of view. 
(I would never use a thinner radiator unless forced to by the case lacking room for 45mm thick radiator, I'd probable just buy a bigger case)
 
Basic rule of thumb: one 120mm X 45mm space per device +1
 
So, 1-GPU + 1-CPU = 2 + 1 spare = 360mm X 45mm as the minimum radiator
 
RTX & More than 8 CPU Cores I would go +2 as these generate more heat
 
140mm wide radiators have much more surface area & if they fit your case, you should consider using them. (I know your looking at external radiator)

Typical 3 slot radiator compare:
  Width 120mm - Length 360mm radiator = 43,200 mm^2
  Width 140mm - Length 420mm radiator = 58,800 mm^2  (+36% area increase)
 
Radiator Summery by Fan layout
 
Radiator Size Estimator


You will find a lot of good info in the links in this thread:
Ready to try water cooling. Where to start? Library of links-basics to expert 

Place a drain at the low point in your loop - makes maintenance much easier 

Plan for easy of filling the loop.

Some people like the quick disconnects and with an external radiator they may be useful if you ever want to move the PC.



 

You can buy dual D5 pump tops also
 
Cleaning the radiators will probably need to happen more often, unless you figure out how to use filters - especially if placing it on the floor
 
Flow indicator anywhere it is easy to see.
 
Many people will use dual temp sensors to understand how well the loop is cooling after any adjustments to fans or pumps. 

If you measure both the Hot before the radiator & the "cold" after the radiator you will see how the adjustment affects your system
 
I personally do not use them - I just monitor the hardware temps

Man, im going to have to wait over a week to get an answer to such simple questions from watercool….holiday schedules.
 
I need to know if I can fit 2 res adapters to the mo-ra3. I think that will determine if I go for 2 pumps or not, because even if the mounting holes do not fit, ill just drill holes in it. Ill get the 200 size res if I go single pump, but Ill have to get maybe the 100 res if I go 2 pumps.....just dunno. https://imgur.com/X9DL0Sl   https://imgur.com/kYDhOve Anyone know the dimensions of the adapter and d5 pump mount by chance ? ;p so far cant find it. 
 
Also, I thought the pwm d5 was solely controlled/powered by the mobo header, but its powered by molex (guys I know NOTHING about WC lol). I have a unused PSU that Ill use to cycle or leak test my system. If I connect a pwm d5 to molex power without the pwm being connected, will the pump run full speed ? If not I will probably get the vario.

You're going to spend a good amount for a external setups plus external setups are eye sores unless you're looking to move it around often OR the case just doesn't support a full custom setup.

I'm not sure if its been said but have you bothered looking at a EVGA AIO Kit just to keep the temps cooler on the GPU in hopes the sound goes down a bit as well?  Much cheaper option otherwise if you're still dead on in custom liquid cooling, try getting a bigger case to house everything in it and make it look nice but again it's all personal preference so if external is your thing, have at it and keep us posted.
 
Also make sure you understand airflow and dust.  Don't want that external rad caking in dust over time on that floor.
 
Last but not least, read up on custom water cooling for beginners around the web before just diving in if you haven't.  Lots to great reads to understand it all and the maintenance involved.

My biggest concern is hooking all this up and the pump noise being louder than I thought - that's why I wanted 2 pumps. I have very, very good hearing.
 
This user on another forum with the same rad states "cpu, gpu and AC usb highflowmeter I had about 210l/h at 100%.
Radiator is a mo-ra3 420. tube is EK ZMT 16/10 (or 5/8 x 3/8)". 
 
I think im just going to go for 1 D5 after all. He added a bunch of stuff like a filter and QDC, more 90 degree fittings and it brought down flow to 80l/h with a 3c delta.....so I guess without all of that, running a single D5 pump at 50% would still net a better flow rate than that.
 
 
 
 

4STAR
My biggest concern is hooking all this up and the pump noise being louder than I thought - that's why I wanted 2 pumps. I have very, very good hearing.
 
This user on another forum with the same rad states "cpu, gpu and AC usb highflowmeter I had about 210l/h at 100%.
Radiator is a mo-ra3 420. tube is EK ZMT 16/10 (or 5/8 x 3/8)". 
 
I think im just going to go for 1 D5 after all. He added a bunch of stuff like a filter and QDC, more 90 degree fittings and it brought down flow to 80l/h with a 3c delta.....so I guess without all of that, running a single D5 pump at 50% would still net a better flow rate than that.
 

Yeah, that rad is great as it will literally handle anything you throw at it.  Those noctua fans are nice as well.  One thing I will say, the 120mm rad and fan versions usually perform optimally while the 140mm is out there but not as standard as the 120.  The Noctua NF-A12x25 are one of newest and best rad fans in the market therefore, I would highly recommend the MO-RA3 360 PRO to go along with those newer NF-A12x25 Noctuas.  I can't stand their color schemes but nothing like a MORA fan grill couldn't fix.  
 
Just make sure you've considered a self powering PWM fan hub that powers from the PSU while getting it's PWM signal from the MB PWM header and only has a single RPM single lead coming back to it for accurate readings.  I think the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter or Silverstone can do that job.  You might need two splitters since you might be running two pumps (in serial config. I hope) or you can grab the much cheaper Swiftech PWM splitter cable, that's if you're running two PWM pumps in serial and want them sync'd.  So we're clear, you'd have the CPU PWM header for the two pumps on PWM splitter and presumable a secondary CPU or PWM fan header on the MB for the rad fans.  You'll probably need PWM extension cables to run it out the back and vise versa.  Just hope the PWM signals are strong enough for it all.
 
While the DDC pumps like the MCP35X have more head pressure to push through the loop, the D5s are much quieter.  Either or is fine but a single D5 should do you justice and having two is great too.  Most users have told me over the years once you head to setting 4 of 5 (Vario version) and higher is when you might start hearing the pump but again, D5 are the quieter pumps of the 2 premium pumps so I think you're good on that front.


As for the pump reservoir combo, I think you're set on that front.  I know I've seen some wicked setups with the pump/res long tube combos attached to the MORA.  Not sure if I've seen dual pump in serial as of yet but that would be interesting for sure.
 
As for tubing, check out PrimoChill Advanced LRT.  Best tubing around.

Fittings, I always advise to possibly grab a few angle fittings just in case based on your blue print where you think you might need one as there's no need to stress the tubing or the fittings.
 
Other than that, I think you have it figured out so far and if we don't speak, have a Happy New Year and see you in 2019!

GTXJackBauer

4STAR
My biggest concern is hooking all this up and the pump noise being louder than I thought - that's why I wanted 2 pumps. I have very, very good hearing.
 
This user on another forum with the same rad states "cpu, gpu and AC usb highflowmeter I had about 210l/h at 100%.
Radiator is a mo-ra3 420. tube is EK ZMT 16/10 (or 5/8 x 3/8)". 
 
I think im just going to go for 1 D5 after all. He added a bunch of stuff like a filter and QDC, more 90 degree fittings and it brought down flow to 80l/h with a 3c delta.....so I guess without all of that, running a single D5 pump at 50% would still net a better flow rate than that.
 

Yeah, that rad is great as it will literally handle anything you throw at it.  Those noctua fans are nice as well.  One thing I will say, the 120mm rad and fan versions usually perform optimally while the 140mm is out there but not as standard as the 120.  The Noctua NF-A12x25 are one of newest and best rad fans in the market therefore, I would highly recommend the MO-RA3 360 PRO to go along with those newer NF-A12x25 Noctuas.  I can't stand their color schemes but nothing like a MORA fan grill couldn't fix.  
 
Just make sure you've considered a self powering PWM fan hub that powers from the PSU while getting it's PWM signal from the MB PWM header and only has a single RPM single lead coming back to it for accurate readings.  I think the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter or Silverstone can do that job.  You might need two splitters since you might be running two pumps (in serial config. I hope) or you can grab the much cheaper Swiftech PWM splitter cable, that's if you're running two PWM pumps in serial and want them sync'd.  So we're clear, you'd have the CPU PWM header for the two pumps on PWM splitter and presumable a secondary CPU or PWM fan header on the MB for the rad fans.  You'll probably need PWM extension cables to run it out the back and vise versa.  Just hope the PWM signals are strong enough for it all.
 
While the DDC pumps like the MCP35X have more head pressure to push through the loop, the D5s are much quieter.  Either or is fine but a single D5 should do you justice and having two is great too.  Most users have told me over the years once you head to setting 4 of 5 (Vario version) and higher is when you might start hearing the pump but again, D5 are the quieter pumps of the 2 premium pumps so I think you're good on that front.


As for the pump reservoir combo, I think you're set on that front.  I know I've seen some wicked setups with the pump/res long tube combos attached to the MORA.  Not sure if I've seen dual pump in serial as of yet but that would be interesting for sure.
 
As for tubing, check out PrimoChill Advanced LRT.  Best tubing around.

Fittings, I always advise to possibly grab a few angle fittings just in case based on your blue print where you think you might need one as there's no need to stress the tubing or the fittings.
 
Other than that, I think you have it figured out so far and if we don't speak, have a Happy New Year and see you in 2019!

 
Oh ya, those nf-a12's are the ones I would get if going 120mm.  Noctua says they're coming out with black ones at the end of this year. I think they're coming out with a 140mm varient as well. I ended up putting a classic nf-f12 colored scheme back on my u12s temporarly and I actually like it. I've owned 2 noctua coolers and have always used their black fans, but I actually kinda liked the original color. Personally would take that over RGB ;p
 
Im just going to go for one pump after all, so that simplifies things for me with wondering if everything will fit onto the rad and I can get the 200 sized tube. My case has a fan hub that looks like it can be connected to the PSU. I'm only going to be using (4) A20's (.08 amps per fan) so I think 1 fan header will handle that no problem. I heard putting the pump in the cpu fan header is a good idea, because if the pump fails you get your MOBO telling you that you do not have a fan RPM, so then you can know its the pumps fault for shutting your pc down. What say you ?
 
I seem to recall that people had problems with that brand of tubing with it gunking up their loop. Do not know if it was the non glossy tubing though (what ill use).
 
Think im going barrow all the way with fittings and ill be sure to get some extras of each and some other types to give me some options if I need it.

4STARIm just going to go for one pump after all, so that simplifies things for me with wondering if everything will fit onto the rad and I can get the 200 sized tube. My case has a fan hub that looks like it can be connected to the PSU. I'm only going to be using (4) A20's (.08 amps per fan) so I think 1 fan header will handle that no problem. I heard putting the pump in the cpu fan header is a good idea, because if the pump fails you get your MOBO telling you that you do not have a fan RPM, so then you can know its the pumps fault for shutting your pc down. What say you ?

 
You should be ok with one fan header but make sure you don't add too many on one channel as most MB fan channels will be 1 Amp rated.
 
As for the CPU fan header, that's correct.  If there are no readings, the MB could initiate a shutdown but that could be set in the BIOS as most if not all MBs have this feature.  I forgot if mine does that or not but I use a control and monitoring software of my whole loop where I've set up alarms for pump speed, liquid temps, etc.
 

4STARI seem to recall that people had problems with that brand of tubing with it gunking up their loop. Do not know if it was the non glossy tubing though (what ill use).
 
 

 
They used to sell an older product of tubing that would leech plasticize but have since fixed these issues unless someone gets very unlucky but so far, many of us haven't had any issues.  Just make sure you're not purchasing that old stock which should be completely cleared out by now as thjis was many years ago.
 

4STAR
I know I asked about the pump being adequate for head pressure if I choose to put the radiator under my desk. What about length of tubing. lets say 15ft ? would that decrease my flow ? This time the rad would be at the same height as my PC, just on the other side of the room.

That's surely going to push your flow to it's limits with everything you'll have with another 15 feet of tubing.  I would try and lessen it if possible but the pump should be able to handle that at max setting but not sure what the flow will be like.  I have my flow set to 0.8-1.0 GPM on average.  The standard of a efficient flowing loop is between 1.0-1.5 GPM as anything more than that you're pretty much diminishing returns.

Ah man, that D5 pump admits a high pitched noise at every setting - WC Vario pump. I’m starting to reach the conclusion this is normal, I hope not though. If it was just the motor hum without the high frequency then I would bo ok with it, but it’s like tenittus. My dad can’t hear the noise because he can’t hear that range.

My gpu will probably get rma because without the stock fans blasting it has revealed pretty bad coil whine.

Is there some sound dampening I can put over the pump ? I’m going to order another pump too I guess.

Here’s a thread and a video that I started.https://www.overclock.net...ar-high-frequency.html

If I can’t kill this high pitched noise, then I’ll probably go back to air. I traded loud fans for a loud dog whistle 😭

My gpu temps hit 70c, but I think it’s a bad mount, so I’ll have to re-do it. Seem to recall another user that happened too with this block.

Oh another thing is that my computer won’t let me post with my XMP ram profile now, so weird.

GTXJackBauer
You sure it's not the GPU with coil whine because D5's are pretty silent.  I have 2 EK D5's with just over 90%+ speed and they are silent, heck even @ 100%.

After checking your video, that is normal and the sound you're hearing is the fluid moving quickly.  No big deal as your fans should muffle that sound out like mine does.  If it still bothers you that much, just lower the speed of the pump to a tolerable one for you personally.
 
If you go back to air, you will regret heavily if sound is an issue with you. lol
 
Make sure you clear CMOS and keep everyone on stock settings because when I was upgrading my GPU, for some reason it wouldn't work but did work (EVGA X99 I/O MB plate grounding issue it seemed) and than once I got it to power on finally, it wouldn't want to post, etc.  It was a month of hell but this is the unfortunate territory to custom PC building and cooling. 
 
Your GPU temps are pretty high for liquid of course unless it's a bad seat, TIM, etc.  Make sure there's no debris in the cooling channels and the flow is adequate. 
 
Just stick through it, you can do it! attitude and don't give up.  It will eventually get sorted out.  Just make sure to simplify your look to work with is my suggestions to everyone to make it less painful.  Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Edit:  Just realized there was a second video I missed.  It sounds like the noiser pump isn't flowing liquid and a bubble can be impeding it's impeller.  Make sure when doing that test again, you see liquid flowing through that small intake internal tube to see if it's working or not.

 
Oh I am 1000% sure its the pump. The fluid moving and the normal pump noise itself is not what I have an issue with, its that high pitched noise its admitting - its unbearable. I would take loud fans over the sound of a high speed drill any day. You know in war movies when a grenade goes off near the actor and you hear that high pitched noise - its like that.
 
Fortunately at setting 1, I was able to greatly reduce the noise. Quoting myself from the other forum...
"When I initially went through all the settings 1-5, I powered through them with my flat head. I cant visually see the dial and once I hooked up everything I was twisting the dial slower and once I hit a wall I stopped, however I could go further by twisting more. Fortunately at setting 1 it virtually goes away ! So after going back and forth with the dial and watching my pump RPM on the monitor it admits that high pitch noise starting at around 2300/2400 RPM and peaks at 2700RPM all the way to 4800RPM. At specifically 2100RPM the pump admits vibration, but only there."
 
I remounted the block and I'm in the 40s now. 400mhz mem/ 100mhz core 124% power. It is nice to not have my stock GPU fans being possessed by randomly coming on full speed ! haha.
 
Well I can post with the XMP profile now, I just set to default settings and redid my OC and everything like before. When I check the speed in task manager and CMD it says 21xxmhz instead of the 3200mhz its supposed to be. I did a run in firestrike and in the hardware section it shows 3200mhz. So I don't know what to believe, because the XMP profile is indeed on every time I go into my BIOS. I seem to recall task manager reporting 3200mhz before when I did my initial build, to make sure everything was running at the speeds I wanted.

GGTV-Jon
Just watched your video - I had to turn both my system and you tube volume all the way up to hear that
 
Is the pump / reservoir body hard mounted?
I used the rubberized mounting base for My EK 140 pump/res combo - no such noises.
Was also wondering if you had powered up the pump before any fluid was in the reservoir

The video doesn’t do it justice, it’s still there, but way louder in person. My parents can’t hear it at all, so they think I’m crazy Lol.
 
I filled up res before turning on the pump. I’m starting to think this noise is a d5 pump version of    “coil“ whine.
 
the pump/res is mounted to the radiator and decoupled.

GGTV-Jon
not the same as "coil whine"
 
If the pump body is hard mounted with no vibration dampers you will get more harmonic noise
My D5 is so quite at 100% pump speed you need to put your hand on the res. to feel the vibration to tell that it is even running. Besides the fact the system is not overheating :P

I also have two EK D5 G2 pumps in serial and since switching from my dual MCP35X DDC pumps, they don't even compare to the noise the DDCs were making.  I think the DDCs at 30%-40% PWM make the same amount of audibles the EK D5 G2 dual pumps @ 100% PWM.  I lost my mind at how silent they are compared to the DDCs and I believe because of the decoupling mechanisms in place that comes with the D5s is the reason why it's also this quiet.  Mind blowing in the audible but for head pressure, the DDCs are still the king.  I have gotten 1.6+ GPM in my complex loop with the DDCs while the new D5s can only get 1.2 GPM @ 100%*. 
 
*I should note that I did add more bends to the loop since the switch as I did some rerouting since taking out the dual bay res/dual pump (DDC) out for a cylinder res combo'd with the EK Revo Dual D5 PWM.  I do miss having the head pressure but enjoy the audibles so that is the trade off between them two. 
 
Also, draining and refilling is such a breeze the way my config is set up.  Much happier with it now compared to before.