That part of the night where you realize your 3 parts short from getting a better loop for your Kingpin ... 

Now that backside cooling is a very nice idea! Love the whole project as a whole as well.
 
I also have one of those water chillers, but I have the AACH100HP. I would say get a 1/2 or 1HP.
 
Also change the fittings to quick connects. Then you can by pass the radiator when you need to for serious benching. Here is what I did for my K|ngP|n 1080 TI a few years ago. It is setup so that you can add and subtract parts without changing the whole configuration.

The two lines in the bottom right hand corner go to the chiller.


 
 
 

Clovis559

johnksss
Now that backside cooling is a very nice idea! Love the whole project as a whole as well.
 
I also have one of those water chillers, but I have the AACH100HP. I would say get a 1/2 or 1HP.
 
Also change the fittings to quick connects. Then you can by pass the radiator when you need to for serious benching. Here is what I did for my K|ngP|n 1080 TI a few years ago. It is setup so that you can add and subtract parts without changing the whole configuration.

The two lines in the bottom right hand corner go to the chiller.


 
 
 

This was my gateway drug, I learned from it. Before I knew nothing about BTU and all that good stuff. I have to check later, but I believe my gaming room is split between two circuit breakers. Then I would want a 1HP, and I'm kinda gandering at the HE one from Penguin Chillers. Heard anything about those?
 
 
 
I've thought about those quick connects but you're the first person I know of that has one. Do they drip when disconnect, do they work good? I like the idea so you can disconnect and work on things. What brand are those?

I totally get that. I was the same way when I first started. I tried about 5 (1/10-1/5-1/3-1/2-3/4) different chillers on my way up to 1HP.
My 1/3 chillers ran really well though. I still have them.
 
I have never heard of them before. I'll have to take a closer look. All though at first glance, specs look really promising. Would love to adjust this one to run -30C, but I do have an SS for that as well.
What you are most concerned about is amp draw from the circuit. 115V / 7.2 A / 830W (My circuits are 15A and 20A)for that particular model. So that one is on one circuit and the computer is on the other. Just remember that other parts of the house are on those same two circuits as well.
 
I have a few different types and yes the will drip like maybe 1 to 2 drops, but if you are really quick, pretty much nothing comes out. Now the bad side. Over time they may start to stick open when you open them, so be mindful of that in the long run. The ones in the picture are made by Swiftech. The ones I currently run are Koolance QD4's and they will start to stick open over time. I give them a tap or two and they shut, but really annoying if you are not expecting it because liquid will just ooze out. This is why you want your custom loop sealed. When it's sealed using a reservoir then even when stuck open it wont fully dump out all of your fluid. This is also key when disconnecting and reconnecting, but if you have something that is not sealed, then the fluid will come rushing. 
 
 
Also looking at your pictures, the AIO you bought looks like the barb's are bigger. Is that true? If it is then you could have changed to a bigger hose from the pump. I couldn't tell fully from your pictures though.
 
 
 

johnksss
I totally get that. I was the same way when I first started. I tried about 5 (1/10-1/5-1/3-1/2-3/4) different chillers on my way up to 1HP.
My 1/3 chillers ran really well though. I still have them.
 
I have never heard of them before. I'll have to take a closer look. All though at first glance, specs look really promising. Would love to adjust this one to run -30C, but I do have an SS for that as well.
What you are most concerned about is amp draw from the circuit. 115V / 7.2 A / 830W (My circuits are 15A and 20A)for that particular model. So that one is on one circuit and the computer is on the other. Just remember that other parts of the house are on those same two circuits as well.
 
I have a few different types and yes the will drip like maybe 1 to 2 drops, but if you are really quick, pretty much nothing comes out. Now the bad side. Over time they may start to stick open when you open them, so be mindful of that in the long run. The ones in the picture are made by Swiftech. The ones I currently run are Koolance QD4's and they will start to stick open over time. I give them a tap or two and they shut, but really annoying if you are not expecting it because liquid will just ooze out. This is why you want your custom loop sealed. When it's sealed using a reservoir then even when stuck open it wont fully dump out all of your fluid. This is also key when disconnecting and reconnecting, but if you have something that is not sealed, then the fluid will come rushing. 
 
 
Also looking at your pictures, the AIO you bought looks like the barb's are bigger. Is that true? If it is then you could have changed to a bigger hose from the pump. I couldn't tell fully from your pictures though.

 
I did notice that too, while the 3/16th did fit snug, that cable they use I dunno, You know? So I checked this weekend while it's not ideal, 1/4th will work. Decently a bit more water. I'm in the mix right now working on it. OMG can this be done already?
 
What do you mean by SS? I want to go into the negatives too, but that's so far off. Let me get somewhat caught up first :P I will take your advice and go for the 1HP if I can, though before I do I want to double check this room is on two circuit breakers. I don't really want to run a power cable halfway down the hallway.
 

Zvedza
Found this thread thanks to dabadger84.

Very cool setup, looking to do this to hook it up to my loop when i get mine, although without the chiller. I have one in my truck for the supercharger coolant, but i bypassed the H/E so the fluid doesnt get heat added to it from ambient air, i assume same would apply in this case. Plus while i have my coolant lines wrapped in my truck to prevent condensation on the racetrack, i dont want to have that worry in my pc. 

Also unless i missed it, the brackets and copper plates you are using for this are from skeletonized hybrid kits or were they bought somewhere separately?

Butchered Hybrid Kits! But I bought a tool to measure the different stuff on the backside of the card. If they release a block for the Kingpin and the back isn't actively cooled, I plan to update this setup with something more, hopefully better ...
 
I want to see pictures of that setup, or is it in the works too? I can't even imagine!

Clovis559

johnksss
I totally get that. I was the same way when I first started. I tried about 5 (1/10-1/5-1/3-1/2-3/4) different chillers on my way up to 1HP.
My 1/3 chillers ran really well though. I still have them.
 
I have never heard of them before. I'll have to take a closer look. All though at first glance, specs look really promising. Would love to adjust this one to run -30C, but I do have an SS for that as well.
What you are most concerned about is amp draw from the circuit. 115V / 7.2 A / 830W (My circuits are 15A and 20A)for that particular model. So that one is on one circuit and the computer is on the other. Just remember that other parts of the house are on those same two circuits as well.
 
I have a few different types and yes the will drip like maybe 1 to 2 drops, but if you are really quick, pretty much nothing comes out. Now the bad side. Over time they may start to stick open when you open them, so be mindful of that in the long run. The ones in the picture are made by Swiftech. The ones I currently run are Koolance QD4's and they will start to stick open over time. I give them a tap or two and they shut, but really annoying if you are not expecting it because liquid will just ooze out. This is why you want your custom loop sealed. When it's sealed using a reservoir then even when stuck open it wont fully dump out all of your fluid. This is also key when disconnecting and reconnecting, but if you have something that is not sealed, then the fluid will come rushing. 
 
 
Also looking at your pictures, the AIO you bought looks like the barb's are bigger. Is that true? If it is then you could have changed to a bigger hose from the pump. I couldn't tell fully from your pictures though.

 
I did notice that too, while the 3/16th did fit snug, that cable they use I dunno, You know? So I checked this weekend while it's not ideal, 1/4th will work. Decently a bit more water. I'm in the mix right now working on it. OMG can this be done already?
 
What do you mean by SS? I want to go into the negatives too, but that's so far off. Let me get somewhat caught up first :P I will take your advice and go for the 1HP if I can, though before I do I want to double check this room is on two circuit breakers. I don't really want to run a power cable halfway down the hallway.
 

Nice. That is what I'm using in that picture with the quick connects. 1/4 to 1/2.
 
SS=Single Stage or Phase Change cooling. It uses some of the same principles as a water chiller, but instead of cooling water it cools a head that is placed on the cpu. Temps can run like -30C to -60C.
 
Cool. I rather enjoy mine. 
 
Also to the pump situation.. Just get something like this. That's all you need. The chiller already has a tank as well.

You go from the res to cpu heads to the rads to the chiller to the res.
https://www.google.com/se...p;bih=1256&dpr=1.5
 

Dabadger84
That odd man out memory chip, and the odd-man out VRM on the other side that's cornered by the two memory rows, are two very annoying oddities on this card. lol

Omg we think alike, I was staring at those like... really?
 

johnksss

Clovis559

johnksss
I totally get that. I was the same way when I first started. I tried about 5 (1/10-1/5-1/3-1/2-3/4) different chillers on my way up to 1HP.
My 1/3 chillers ran really well though. I still have them.
 
I have never heard of them before. I'll have to take a closer look. All though at first glance, specs look really promising. Would love to adjust this one to run -30C, but I do have an SS for that as well.
What you are most concerned about is amp draw from the circuit. 115V / 7.2 A / 830W (My circuits are 15A and 20A)for that particular model. So that one is on one circuit and the computer is on the other. Just remember that other parts of the house are on those same two circuits as well.
 
I have a few different types and yes the will drip like maybe 1 to 2 drops, but if you are really quick, pretty much nothing comes out. Now the bad side. Over time they may start to stick open when you open them, so be mindful of that in the long run. The ones in the picture are made by Swiftech. The ones I currently run are Koolance QD4's and they will start to stick open over time. I give them a tap or two and they shut, but really annoying if you are not expecting it because liquid will just ooze out. This is why you want your custom loop sealed. When it's sealed using a reservoir then even when stuck open it wont fully dump out all of your fluid. This is also key when disconnecting and reconnecting, but if you have something that is not sealed, then the fluid will come rushing. 
 
 
Also looking at your pictures, the AIO you bought looks like the barb's are bigger. Is that true? If it is then you could have changed to a bigger hose from the pump. I couldn't tell fully from your pictures though.

 
I did notice that too, while the 3/16th did fit snug, that cable they use I dunno, You know? So I checked this weekend while it's not ideal, 1/4th will work. Decently a bit more water. I'm in the mix right now working on it. OMG can this be done already?
 
What do you mean by SS? I want to go into the negatives too, but that's so far off. Let me get somewhat caught up first :P I will take your advice and go for the 1HP if I can, though before I do I want to double check this room is on two circuit breakers. I don't really want to run a power cable halfway down the hallway.
 

Nice. That is what I'm using in that picture with the quick connects. 1/4 to 1/2.
 
SS=Single Stage or Phase Change cooling. It uses some of the same principles as a water chiller, but instead of cooling water it cools a head that is placed on the cpu. Temps can run like -30C to -60C.
 
Cool. I rather enjoy mine. 
 
Also to the pump situation.. Just get something like this. That's all you need. The chiller already has a tank as well.

You go from the res to cpu heads to the rads to the chiller to the res.
https://www.google.com/se...p;bih=1256&dpr=1.5
 

This build is kind of a test setup and will become a test setup down the road.  I may get one of those pumps to test out  but I"m not sure it would be strong enough. I'm working towards one of these: 

Well that one specifically. That way it takes longer for the chiller to turn on and off. 24 Gallon Yeti, with 20 gallons of useable coolant? O
I've read on Phase change, the science makes me wish I didn't cheat in school and fail every science class ever, then cheat in college. I would also like to go there someday. Are they dangerous? I totally don't understand everything I read on them but all I have seen are their negative temps! :D It would be interested to someday understand, or build my own. That way you could always update your own cold plates for whatever you're doing.
 
Also was thinking of putting a picture of Tim Allen on top of the chest when it's all done.
 
 

johnksss
 
Phase is a whole different animal. I did build my own though. I bought all the parts and tools to build and maintain it when it breaks down.

Funny you bring this up, I recently dug up my old Prometia mach 1 phase change cooler after many years of non-use.  Unfortunately it doesn't work, compressor appears to be alive but looks like I need to somehow get it recharged.

_Gir_

johnksss
 
Phase is a whole different animal. I did build my own though. I bought all the parts and tools to build and maintain it when it breaks down.

Funny you bring this up, I recently dug up my old Prometia mach 1 phase change cooler after many years of non-use.  Unfortunately it doesn't work, compressor appears to be alive but looks like I need to somehow get it recharged.

You can get it charged by an hvac guy, but you have to explain to them how to charge it though. they tend to try to charge it like a regular fridge or small ac unit. Once they start charging it you need to have a way to put a load on it so they can add the correct amount of refrigerant. You also need to know what it was originally charged with in the first place.
Also I do no think it will be cheap either considering if it's empty they will need to vacuum it down to something like 25 to 30 microns and charge it in a vacuum.
Here is mine....

johnksss
 
I guess you're right.... It will be a learning curve for you. I don't want to be that guy who rains on your parade.
 
Was just trying to save you headaches we went through doing it that way....many years ago.
 
 
Phase is a whole different animal. I did build my own though. I bought all the parts and tools to build and maintain it when it breaks down.

I'll totally take advice! Part of my headache was the pumps, and finding adapters, and trips to Lowes with impatience. I've learned patience = Money saved and Time saved. When I migrate to the next step I won't need to fully take the PC apart, leaving me in a rutt. So I can take much more time with it. This pump, the top uses a impossible to find 5/8" but that thread is ... impossible to find. And the intake was a 3/4" impossible to find thread. The smaller pumps I was trying to add had a 1/2" standard thread on top and a 5/8" thread intake that was impossible to find.

And to further , the body slides on with a slight twist. I didn't want to trouble shoot that and go crazier when I looked at other pump brands and they're bolted on firm. The Penguin Chillers that has my eyes sells a pump with two standard 1/2" ports. Why didn't I buy that?  learning curve. Also this left me needing a 1" tube, and 1" tubes are stiff. I could defend myself with it if needed.  I wanted 3 pumps for the Tim Allen effect, and to make it easier to work on, but one pump has really good flow, and I will now look into quick connects. The largest I could find were 1/2" but that should work!
 
I also need to build a better drain idea, I have one in my head, but later we will visit that! I have a feeling this pump will fall in line with the problems, and at that time I will try another pump.
 
Okay so hey, this could have been done better, but it's mine and it works:
 
 
I'm going to finish insulating for temp loss, but for now between 8:37am to 1:25pm, the coolant only went from 5-7c (Computer off) so that's not that bad of a loss. The ambient temp is 16c 60f. In the end it was worth it. I'm going to use it like this for a while to pick up experience, then move in the right direction. I would like to see those 4c's coolant 24/7 so definitely going to be needing that 1/2 - 1 Hp chiller.
 
I fixed the memory problem I had too. One of the memory's was 20c hotter then the others, I didn't install the pads right, and they were creating a pocket of trapped air and no connecting with the upside down memory plate. I filled the plate with a thermal pad, reinstalled. They could be applied better in the future, but I think this will do till we see what's going down with GPU water blocks.
 

 
I like those temps though. I need to get better at overclocking. I can't break 15, 273 at the moment, but I was so exhausted last night. Maybe tonight, because Monday is off. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/58320507? I wonder if my CPU would be holding me back. I have a i9-9900x @ 4.7. I'm cleaning the aftermath, but she went 4.9 last night. Today is cleaning the aftermath, but when I'm done I might shoot for a Port Royal with 4.9, same other settings on GPU as my best score.
 

 
After seeing the difference putting actual water block on for my CPU did for temps at idle / load, I'm excited for a quality GPU water block. This CPU used to have a Corsair H110i, and would get insane hot: 45c idle / 92c load. It's nice to see some normal temperatures. 13c /55c much better. 

johnksss

Clovis559

johnksss
 
I guess you're right.... It will be a learning curve for you. I don't want to be that guy who rains on your parade.
 
Was just trying to save you headaches we went through doing it that way....many years ago.
 
 
Phase is a whole different animal. I did build my own though. I bought all the parts and tools to build and maintain it when it breaks down.

I'll totally take advice! Part of my headache was the pumps, and finding adapters, and trips to Lowes with impatience. I've learned patience = Money saved and Time saved. When I migrate to the next step I won't need to fully take the PC apart, leaving me in a rutt. So I can take much more time with it. This pump, the top uses a impossible to find 5/8" but that thread is ... impossible to find. And the intake was a 3/4" impossible to find thread. The smaller pumps I was trying to add had a 1/2" standard thread on top and a 5/8" thread intake that was impossible to find.

And to further , the body slides on with a slight twist. I didn't want to trouble shoot that and go crazier when I looked at other pump brands and they're bolted on firm. The Penguin Chillers that has my eyes sells a pump with two standard 1/2" ports. Why didn't I buy that?  learning curve. Also this left me needing a 1" tube, and 1" tubes are stiff. I could defend myself with it if needed.  I wanted 3 pumps for the Tim Allen effect, and to make it easier to work on, but one pump has really good flow, and I will now look into quick connects. The largest I could find were 1/2" but that should work!
 
I also need to build a better drain idea, I have one in my head, but later we will visit that! I have a feeling this pump will fall in line with the problems, and at that time I will try another pump.
 
Okay so hey, this could have been done better, but it's mine and it works:

 
I'm going to finish insulating for temp loss, but for now between 8:37am to 1:25pm, the coolant only went from 5-7c (Computer off) so that's not that bad of a loss. The ambient temp is 16c 60f. In the end it was worth it. I'm going to use it like this for a while to pick up experience, then move in the right direction. I would like to see those 4c's coolant 24/7 so definitely going to be needing that 1/2 - 1 Hp chiller.
 
I fixed the memory problem I had too. One of the memory's was 20c hotter then the others, I didn't install the pads right, and they were creating a pocket of trapped air and no connecting with the upside down memory plate. I filled the plate with a thermal pad, reinstalled. They could be applied better in the future, but I think this will do till we see what's going down with GPU water blocks.
 

 
I like those temps though. I need to get better at overclocking. I can't break 15, 273 at the moment, but I was so exhausted last night. Maybe tonight, because Monday is off. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/58320507? I wonder if my CPU would be holding me back. I have a i9-9900x @ 4.7. I'm cleaning the aftermath, but she went 4.9 last night. Today is cleaning the aftermath, but when I'm done I might shoot for a Port Royal with 4.9, same other settings on GPU as my best score.
 

 
After seeing the difference putting actual water block on for my CPU did for temps at idle / load, I'm excited for a quality GPU water block. This CPU used to have a Corsair H110i, and would get insane hot: 45c idle / 92c load. It's nice to see some normal temperatures. 13c /55c much better. 

I hear ya! As long as it works, it's all good!!
 
Depending on humidity though you will need to protect the cpu, pcie and the card from condensation later on. Depending on how cold you want to go and for how long.
 
So how long did the chiller have to run to get the temp you desired?
 
Temps look really good as well. As for your 9900K, it should do 5.0 no sweat. Start with a 1.275 and set all cores to 5.0 and boot to windows. Run a bench and see what happens. if I can do this with a laptop on air, you surely can do it with a water block. I have faith in you.
With chilled water you might be able to get to 5.4 Ghz in some benchmarks while lower in others.
 
Nice! Glad you got that memory issue taken care of as that could have really been a serious issue. With how hot these chips get from just sitting idle there doing nothing.
 
 
 
 
 

 
it’s a 9900x, it’s an old chip. I’m on the x299. @4.7 0avx it’s v1.297. I wanted it as stable I could get to with avx cause at the time I played mostly Battlefield5.. I think if I could maintain the low temps I could tweak and eventually maybe pull of 5.0? I think my problem is gonna be the chiller I have in the end.
 
I’m wondering if they ditched HEDT or we will see a refresh sometime.
 
If I can get a better chiller I will adapt to highest temps of the week. The end goal to fight condensation is putting her in a Minifridge, Mini Freezer, or some sort.Then with a better chiller I can go 24/7 3-4C.
 
I kinda want to sit on this chiller for a bit, learn more. a 1HP could totally handle these temps and keep the water chilled, do you think a 1/2HP could? Or would I be wishing I just got the 1HP?
 
I think to go from 20c to 4c took over an hour with at least an hour getting down to 6c, and then it struggled really badly. Then again it is cooling down around 3.7 gallons, and it takes longer to hear up that’s for sure.

Lel those temps though, nice so far ^_^

Did a little pretest. Heated the water up to 21c (Approx 3.5 Gallons)
 
43 minutes later it was only down to 13c. That's some slow ass cooling. I want a 1HP already...

this thread is madness

Dabadger84
My EK unit finally shipped yesterday... supposedly it will be here Wednesday - I find that estimate to be impossible imo.  From Slovenia to the U.S. and my house in 2 days?  No way. lol We'll see.
 
Due to messing up my back on Sunday, I haven't gotten around to doing the thermal pads on the backplate area yet, maybe sometime later this week, hopefully.
 
I got an answer back from Jacob on Twitter, he said 1mm for the backplate area O_o not sure if he meant thickness of the pads already on there or what, I think my post was a bit confusing:
 

What EK unit you get?!?  They look thicker then 1 mm of course I have peeled it off!

Zvedza
Speaking of crazy ideas, an idea popped in my head to unplug the tubes and then get an adaptor to connect the main loop. Only issue is making sure the pump is drained, and making sure the pump is submerged while filling the whole loop ( i guess the qd disconnects could help).
But then im not sure on the gpm of the kingpin aio pump and if my D5 would just overspin it.

Im really hoping Optimus or the hydrocopper comes out soon before i come up with any other ideas 

I pulled the fan out and filled in the gap with epoxy! Then there is no pump to overspin. I would really like an Optimus water block too. I have one for my CPU and I'm very pleased with the results. Even though this is functional, I don't think it could compete with an actual water block.