I used the Der8auer method with the quarter turn at the end. I have an EKWB 0.6Nm torque screwdriver (link) for installing CPU coolers. I don't have the right fitting for the frame, but it is surprising how much tension 0.6Nm torque is - certainly I put less tension on the CPU frame with the Der8auer method than 0.6Nm torque. 
 
edit: just realized - the EKWB torque screwdriver is 0.6Nm. Der8auer recommended 0.03 - 0.06Nm, not 0.6Nm.. lol, thank heavens I used his method and not the EKWB torque screwdriver!
 
 

Flybye

I'm the last person to think anyone is sounding rude .  It's all good.  I guess I expected too much from Intel.  I've trusted their products for decades, and I do find it hard to believe that they didn't bother to test this well.  Thankfully, the powers at be with the aftermarket is a strong one. 

I didn't know about the 6700k.  I jump from the 3770k to the 12900kf.  I just looked up that corner issue, and man, that would have seriously made me jump back to AMD if that happened to me.  And you are right.  In the grand scheme of things, they are not going to care about people taking their CPU to the extreme - the people who actually do thermal testing and monitoring.

I mean, this is Intel. They intentionally break socket compatibility every two years. They changed to using TIM instead of soldered IHS because it saved them pennies, but switched back to solder once AMD got competitive and Intel ran headfirst into the clockspeed/heat wall.
 
GN Steve theorized that Intel may change the faulty latching system with Meteor Lake, because it will change to a LGA1851 socket. Making the chip even longer would only worsen the bowing problem without a redesign.

Nice, B0baganoosh.  Any noticeable differences in temp?

B0baganoosh

Flybye
Nice, B0baganoosh.  Any noticeable differences in temp?

No, but I had only ran it for a couple weeks and looking at the paste after taking the block off yesterday, I didn't see any kind of pattern indicating that I had the bending problem yet. I think it's likely that I either wouldn't have had it or that it would have taken time to develop. At least now it shouldn't develop.

Also, it was warmer in the room than the last time I did similar testing, so I guess it could be a few degrees cooler, but it's really hard to tell right now.

As of last night I'm still idling around 30C and gaming between 50-60C with my fans at 55%.  My system has been running for a little over 2 months, but I sometimes go almost a week without using it.  I keep wondering if keeping it on is a consideration for accelerating the bending process.  I just don't want to have to go through all this hassle if it's not even gonna be worth it.  Maybe I got lucky, and it's not affecting me.  Oh how time will tell lol.

Flybye

B0baganoosh

Flybye
Nice, B0baganoosh.  Any noticeable differences in temp?

No, but I had only ran it for a couple weeks and looking at the paste after taking the block off yesterday, I didn't see any kind of pattern indicating that I had the bending problem yet. I think it's likely that I either wouldn't have had it or that it would have taken time to develop. At least now it shouldn't develop.

Also, it was warmer in the room than the last time I did similar testing, so I guess it could be a few degrees cooler, but it's really hard to tell right now.

As of last night I'm still idling around 30C and gaming between 50-60C with my fans at 55%.  My system has been running for a little over 2 months, but I sometimes go almost a week without using it.  I keep wondering if keeping it on is a consideration for accelerating the bending process.  I just don't want to have to go through all this hassle if it's not even gonna be worth it.  Maybe I got lucky, and it's not affecting me.  Oh how time will tell lol.

As long as you do not take the cpu cooler off, and do not take the cpu out of the socket you will be fine. The second you do the bowing is accelerated some worse than others. There is a bow no matter what, with it and the right cooler you will idle in the 20C ranges. But right now I would just leave it, it is worth getting as a preventative measure or if you got into my shoes with the vcore and temps going out of control with the temp sensors all cutting out from the bow.

I didn't want to bog this thread down, but for those checking here and not in the z690 section, here's my trials with two different frames: https://forums.evga.com/FindPost/3564958
 
Edit 11/29/2022 (didn't want to bump the thread, but put this here in case anybody wanted to find the information):
I revisited this after buying a 13900k, as I noticed the 12900k had started to develop that high-spot-low-spot look to the paste when I took the block off for the first time in a few months, so I figured it was worth putting all my experience from that previous drama to use and take a fresh stab at it.
 
I think I can try to summarize where I went wrong and why knowing what I know now I was comfortable trying it again with the new 13900k (maybe I should put this in that thread and the contact frame thread lol):
 
1. My Optimus water block doesn't utilize a backplate by default.
2. I did the install with the case in the upright position. So without a backplate behind the LGA1700 backplate, the LGA1700 backplate can come right off when you take off the factory bracket. I was careful, but I think there were times where this moved out of position.
3. I was also tightening my water block too much I think. There are no springs or anything, it's just knurled nuts on posts that you finger tighten and maybe I took their "just tighten until you can't finger tighten anymore" too literally.
>>Combine these items and what I believe was causing my issue was flexing of the board around the socket and all this flexing and potentially misaligned brackets led to intermittent contact quality, which led to issues.
 
So my adjusted successful steps:
A. I got one of the EKWB backplates they offered for free (you just pay shipping basically) because their old one wasn't compatible with LGA1700 and they made a new one to offer compatibility for their coolers. I then bought bolts that thread through the back of that EK backplate, some nylon washers, and some lock-nuts for it. The bolts are the same thread as the Optimus mounting posts (the block-side-size, not the original motherboard-side-size).
B. I put the original z690 bracket back on very carefully and made sure that it was tightened down in a manner that ensured the LGA1700 backplate was once-again correctly and evenly mounted.
C. Then I very carefully mounted the EK backplate behind that into the motherboard with the bolts, putting the nylon washers and nuts on the front of the motherboard. It is also important not to over-tighten this...I have a habit of that I guess(classic tighten until the bolt breaks, then back it off a quarter turn).
D. So with that in place, I can take off the factory bracket without the factory LGA1700 backplate moving as the EK one holds that in place now. This is critical.
E. This time, when I followed the steps from Thermal Grizzly and GN on installing the aftermarket bracket, it went much smoother.
F. I then put my water block on and adjusted their instructions to "just tighten until the nuts no longer easily finger tighten anymore" (it's subtle I guess lol) and I haven't had any of the frame-weirdness with the 13900k at all.