Hey every, I am desperately seeking help as the tittle says, my 2080 TI is randomly turning off as the video shows and I have no idea why. I changed PCI slots, unplugged all the video cables from the back or left one in, changed the PSU cables around and so on but it still does the same thing. I am afraid that the card might be dying and I really hope that is not the case. But after a few attempts my card will go back to normal and stay on without problems till I turn my PC off again before and the next day when I boot my PC up it will do the same thing. My temps are around 35c while idle and goes 45c/50c while on 90%/100% loads playing games like Cyberpunk on max graphics settings.
 
PC specs:
------------------------------------------------------
 
Case:    DarkFlash Phantom Black ATX Mid-Tower Desktop Computer Gaming Case USB 3.0 Ports Tempered Glass Windows with 6pcs 120mm LED DR12 RGB Fans Pre-Installed

OS:     Windows 10 64Bit Home

HD0:    Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM)

HD1:    WD Blue 1TB PC Hard Drive - 7200 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache, 3.5" - WD10EZEX

HD2:    WD Blue 1TB PC Hard Drive - 7200 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache, 3.5" - WD10EZEX

HD3:    Samsung 970 EVO SSD 500GB

MB:     GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS Ultra (Intel LGA1151/Z390/ATX/3xM.2 Thermal Guard/Onboard AC Wi-Fi/RGB Fusion/Gaming Motherboard)

RAM:   G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Intel Z170 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16Q-32GVK

CPU:    Intel Core i9-9900K Desktop Processor 8 Cores up to 5.0 GHz Turbo unlocked LGA1151 300 Series 95W

GPU:    EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xc Hybrid Gaming, 11GB GDDR6, Hybrid & RGB LED Graphics Card 11G-P4-2384-KR

PSU:    Corsair Professional Series  AX 1200 Watt ATX/EPS Modular 80 PLUS Gold (AX1200)

Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer 120, High Performance CPU Water Cooler
 
------------------------------------------------------
 
This is the best PC I've ever owned and I told myself I'd go big on a system for the first time (Cyberpunk had a lot to do with my decision) as I have a low income job in construction and it took me a nearly a full year to save up working extra hours for this PC when I got it and the GPU must be EVGA as I love EVGA and am a dedicated loyal buyer of their GPUs (my first GPU from them was a e-GeForce 8800 GT purchased 14 years ago) and absolutely love their customer support as being probably the best I've ever experienced. Thing is I cannot afford another card like this and with the shortages of GPUs from miners and so on. I am willing to do whatever it takes to save this card and will be just devastated if it breaks on me. I have no back up GPUs or any tech stores in my area as the nearest one and only one is 1 hour away and I tried their services and it's not great... They normally require 2 to 5 days to put together a PC for you when you deliver them the parts or to run maintenance. This is the first PC I built for myself without assistance and I had it for about two years without problems till now with the GPU.
 
Any help will be more than greatly appreciated.
 
 
Sorry, I don't know how to turn this into a video thumbnail on the page.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjXUT7gon9s
 

ZoranC
Like sajin said it is odd but I think fact that after few attempts it eventually keeps running fine until you turn it off/on again might be indicator of where problem is so before you go for RMA I would try following:
 
First, like sajin said use it in top PCIe slot.
 
Next, I am not familiar with Z390s BIOS so I don't know does it have these options but if it does turn off fast boot, disable C states, and disable ACPI sleep state. After that in Windows disable hybernation and put it in Ultimate power mode.
 
Do you have 'Above 4G Decoding' and 'ReBar' enabled or disabled?
 
Also, if I were you I would look at that power strip everything seems to be plugged in.
 
Last, if all of that fails I would check are you having bad PSU / PSU cables, PSU is too weak, and are PSU cables used correctly.
 
Good luck!

Alright so I changed the cables to a different spare PCI-E cables (same brand the whole works) and changed slots on the PSU but same thing happens. I found "fast boot" and disabled it though I haven't tested it yet because once the GPU finally stays on it will be on till I shut down the PC for awhile and reboot it then it will repeat the random turn off till a random boot up keeps it on. I can't find the C states, don't know if it's called C states or "C3 State Support" or "C6/C7 State Support" "C8 State Support" "C10 State Support" so I'm guessing those? and I can't find ACPI sleep state either, yet.
 

ZoranC

Bojacks
Also the PSU being weak as in like dying or something? Because it's a 1200w PSU, so maybe it is dying? I'll do everything you've recommended. I really appreciate your help, tyvm!

1200W is more than plenty, but AX1200 as a model is many years old and there is a chance it might be not working right. It is not likely based on symptoms you are describing but I wanted to mention it just in case, it is one of very last things I would check.
 
Also, on the off chance, how many cables are going from your PSU to video card? If it is one and you are splitting that on cards side into two through splitter / piggy tail I would switch to two separate cables and use cable's main connector, not piggy tail one.
 
You are welcome, I will be happy if I helped in some way :)

Two cables and it still does the same thing. I really hope it's just the PSU being old, I haven't thought about it but I think I have a spare PSU to try and hopefully it has enough juice to test it on. I will get back to you as soon as I can. Tyvm!
 

Hoggle
1200W PSU would be fine so I would agree RMA seems like the best option unless it was a new build and then I would be checking power cables for any damage or possibly being slightly loose. 

My build is about two years now?... I just remembered I had an extra PSU lying around so I'm gonna try that too and hopefully it has enough juice to do it. I'm really hoping it's the PSU being old and dying or something because at least that's the cheapest part to repair lol. I'd have a stroke if my GPU dies on me... But if it's not my PSU or MB then definitely going to RMA my GPU. I contacted EVGA the day I submitted this post about my GPU so hopefully I hear something from them soon. Thanks so much for your help! I really appreciate it!

ZoranC

Bojacks
Alright so I changed the cables to a different spare PCI-E cables (same brand the whole works) and changed slots on the PSU but same thing happens.

 
Have you looked could it be that power strip and tried plugging in your PC straight into wall outlet? Many power strips have surge protectors in them that might be tripping, especially cheap ones.
 

Bojacks
I can't find the C states, don't know if it's called C states or "C3 State Support" or "C6/C7 State Support" "C8 State Support" "C10 State Support" so I'm guessing those? and I can't find ACPI sleep state either, yet.

 
Different manufacturers call it differently with different options. I have looked at manual for your mb and in your case they are:
 
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E)
C3 State Support
C6/C7 State Support
C8 State Support
C10 State Support
Package C State Limit
 
I can’t find ACPI suspend in that manual, that is where my knowledge of it ends.
 

Bojacks
I found "fast boot" and disabled it though I haven't tested it yet because once the GPU finally stays on it will be on till I shut down the PC for awhile and reboot it then it will repeat the random turn off till a random boot up keeps it on.

 
It is VERY VERY VERY important that you remember one thing that could be resulting in such symptoms is unstable BIOS configuration, it doesn’t have to be hardware itself. I would rule out configuration before suspecting hardware and going for RMA. Bad configuration can cause all kind of weird behaviors even with perfectly good hardware.
 
I can’t find your answer have you tried it with default BIOS settings, nor do you have 'Above 4G Decoding' and 'ReBar' enabled or disabled, nor have you tried disabling Windows hybernation and putting Windows in Ultimate power mode.
 
We won’t know for sure until you rule out everything about configuration, starting with BIOS. Very first thing I would do (after taking that power strip out of equation) is try with completely clear BIOS, all settings at default. If you are not comfortable working in that area document all of your current BIOS settings and then maybe take it to reputable place to have them do it for you.

You're the best man, I can't express how much I appreciate your help.
 
Ok, so I did what you asked about the the power cable being plugged directly into the wall and same thing happens and also I apologize about the the "Above 4G Decoding" and "ReBar" I totally forgot about those but I did find "Above 4G Decoding" and it was disabled but I can't find "ReBar" for the life of me also I disabled the "C States" just gotta test it out. I will keep looking for the "ReBar" though. I found "Fast Boot" and disabled it but it still does the same thing. I also have my BIOS in default settings as well.
 
What I got so far.

ZoranC

Bojacks
You're the best man, I can't express how much I appreciate your help.

 
I know how it can be when one needs help so I try to help others if I can.
 

Bojacks
I did find "Above 4G Decoding" and it was disabled but I can't find "ReBar" for the life of me

 
ReBar aka "resizable bar" might not be there depending on BIOS version, not all BIOSes have it. I have mentioned 4G and ReBar even though 2080 doesn't support ReBar because I've seen cases when turning them on resulted in headaches.
 
Don't forget about hybernation and use of Ultimate power plan.
 
If I were you I would also check forums with people that are knowledgeable about your motherboard to assure that is not the cause of your problems. Here is one thing you can try by yourself:
 
Passmark has free version of their MemTest86 software here MemTest86 - Compare Editions
 
Download it, burn it to USB, boot from that USB and run test for as long as you can (I do it for at least 24 hours). If it fails then it is something about your BIOS configuration or memory, not Windows.

Ok will do and I'll get back to you when it's done and if anything comes up.

ZoranC

Bojacks
Ok will do and I'll get back to you when it's done and if anything comes up.

Good luck :)

Well it was my GPU, I actually had a 980 laying around which I thought I gave away to a family member (which turned out to be one of my 670's) and it booted up normally with no hassles what so ever and also EVGA approved my RMA so I shipped it out yesterday (cries inside)...  So good news is I am not without a GPU and back on this beautiful well built EVGA 980 and able to play some games with my friends for the time being.  I appreciate your help so much man I really don't know where to start but if you ever come to Hawaii for vacation or whatever let me know and I'll give you tips on where to go and what's the best places to visit and which islands and so on etc. You're the best, buddy and I hope I can return the favor if you ever need help in anything that I might have knowledge to.

Bojacks
... EVGA approved my RMA so I shipped it out yesterday ...

Just wondering is everything OK now, did RMA resolve this for you?

Bojacks

ZoranC

Bojacks
... EVGA approved my RMA so I shipped it out yesterday ...

Just wondering is everything OK now, did RMA resolve this for you?

Yes! It's working fine again, don't know what EVGA did but everything is back to normal. I had it for two weeks now and just wanted to make sure before I reported back. I still get a little bit anxieties when booting it up watching the light on it lol. This is why I will always be a EVGA fanboy, these guys are on it since day one and love their customer services. Thanks so much, bud I appreciate everything you've done for me!

I'm glad that everything has worked out. Game on!

@Bojacks Now that your problem has been resolved please allow me one unsolicited but well intentioned input: Plugging computer straight into a wall or cheap power strip is in my experience and opinion a very bad practice that has very high probability of sooner or later leading to issues and damage (there are many kinds of things that can happen with power that result in that and I’ve personally seen some of them over the years).
 
That is why I believe no computer and monitor one cares about should be plugged into anything but quality UPS. I know you are on very tight budget and what I’m suggesting is that you should spend more money but your tight budget is exactly why I’m suggesting it. You probably can’t afford to replace that system in case power issues fry it so think of getting UPS as cheap insurance policy against it.
 
If you decide to go for it I’m heartily recommending Eaton 5S 1500. I’ve had nothing but good experience with that model and their customer service / tech support over the years (I switched to Eaton after I had bad experience with APC).

Bojacks

 
Well... That's unfortunate. No idea why they can't ship it here.
 
Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it a lot and spending $180 is well worth it. I'll try to see if I can find something similar that can ship to my state. I'm really confused as to why these guys won't ship it here as they don't mention Hawaii on their main site either. It's $250+ on newegg with shipping and that's almost $100 more. I use a shared account with my family for amazon prime so shipping price would have been free with amazon.
 
 
 
Edit: Nvm, newegg won't ship it here either... No idea what the problem is with these USPs.

Provantage.com has it for $152.63 plus $80.90 shipping to Hawaii. You might want to give a call to Eaton themselves to discuss do they have distributor local to you and how they would be handling warranty cost of shipping wise in the case you need it.
 
Amazon and Newegg probably don't want to deal with shipping of something very heavy that far. If you decide to go for other brand (because one could argue that some UPS is better than no UPS), whether APC or Tripplite or whatever, you will need to do some research as I can't comment how good they are these days.

ZoranC
 
Provantage.com has it for $152.63 plus $80.90 shipping to Hawaii. You might want to give a call to Eaton themselves to discuss do they have distributor local to you and how they would be handling warranty cost of shipping wise in the case you need it.
 
Amazon and Newegg probably don't want to deal with shipping of something very heavy that far. If you decide to go for other brand (because one could argue that some UPS is better than no UPS), whether APC or Tripplite or whatever, you will need to do some research as I can't comment how good they are these days.

Will do. I see that the "CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD" got good reviews so I'll be looking into that as well if the first option is unavailable.

ZoranC

Bojacks
Will do. I see that the "CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD" got good reviews so I'll be looking into that as well if the first option is unavailable.

Whichever it ends up to be make sure you are correct about reviews, CyberPower wouldn't be my personal choice based on this Amazon.com: Customer reviews: CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower

Rgr, I appreciate it thanks, bro.