I have installed several of the Precision X1 versions and LED Sync does not work on any. I have two EVGA FTW3 2080Ti Ultra Hybrids and a the Silver Nvidia NVLink 3 Space Bridge. No matter what I have tried,  Led Sync or any control over the LEDs was buggy at best and does not work 90% of the time. I typically think EVGA is the best but I can also say the guys writing the code for Precision X1 are not accounting for the use of a non EVGA NVLink Bridge. 
 
Here's what worked for me for control of the RGB on the cards, again, I found this on the Nvidia Forum in a Google search, not taking credit just passing it on. I use MSI afterburner for overclocking so Precision is great but buggy. I still think it caused Bios issues on my cards.
 
Uninstall Precision X1 but DO NOT Uninstall LED Sync, after you uninstall Precision X1, navigate to C:\program files x86\EVGA\ledsync.exe - right click and create a shortcut of LedSync.exe. Open Led Sync and change settings using the standalone Led Sync Application. 
 
Additionally, I think the bridge RGB control problem is that you must have an EVGA NVLink Bridge. Why? After editing the LedSync.cfg file and replacing the 0 with a 1 after ([SLI1] Enable0=1) at the bottom of the .cfg file I still have no control over the RGB settings of the NVLink bridge (again my NVLink Bridge is the Silver NVidia standard, which also is currently only available on Ebay. The 3 slot Link bridge from any manufacturer is out of stock everywhere and the EVGA 3 slot bridge is as rare as Hens Teeth), I do have control over the Cards, RGB is affected with color change or any other flashing/pulsing/breathing options. I have a hunch the problem isn't the software necessarily, I think the problem is the hardware in use in other words if you don't have an EVGA bridge then Precision X1 LED control is not going to work. If you have an EVGA NVLink bridge and two EVGA GPU's and you run across this thread please verify that you have full control over the cards and the bridge RGB settings, by clicking on LED Sync. 

stevepieta
Hi, sorry for the off topic, but I noticed your 80/20 rig at the top spot and it inspired me to copy you for a miniITX build that wasn't cutting it for cooling.
 
Could tell me how to source the brackets you used to mount the radiators to the 80/20 t-nuts? What are they called?

Radiator mounting brackets are from Amazon. Had to drill the holes on one end of the brackets to fit 1/4 -20 bolts to mount to 1” 80/20 single slot. I also bent the 1/4-20 drilled end of the bracket to a true 90 degree on each bracket so the radiators were square to the mounting verticals and mounted perpendicular to the vertical. They are aluminum not steel as stated on Amazon which makes them much easier to machine and bend by hand. I bent them using a bench mounted vise.

Bracket link:

XSPC Radiator Standoff Bracket...

https://www.amazon.com/dp...f=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

80 20 base is 22” long, centers are 5” long to fit the bench table. I used the push in T- rubber from 8020 to allow the bench table to sit and not slide on the 8020 base. Verticals are 22” tall. I also added 2 5” cross pieces between the verticals for handles to pick it up. I’ve made changes since I posted the pics on the EVGA mods rigs page. I can send you an updated pic if needed. I ordered all the parts from 8020 in three separate Orders or I’d just send the parts list. Had to make several parts adjustments so it cost me nearly 200.00 with all the changes. I would guess actual cost once completed is really about $140 or $150.00. Cost is a little more than the average case but so much more cooler than an enclosed case which is basically a heat trap.
 
8020 Parts List
4132-Black 4 Ea. $18.88
4081-Black 8 Ea. $59.68
3382 32 Ea. $6.72
1001-Black-FB 22" 4Ea. $50.04
1001-Black-FB 5" 4Ea. $17.40
2015-Plain 8Ea. $9.60
2828 1 Ea 12" $1.20
3358 8Ea. $12.40
65-3058 8Ea. $1.36
3342 16Ea. $4.80
XSPC Universal Radstand V2, 120mm $23.99
Open Bench Table (OBT) Black Anodized $199.99
Screw Kit for OBT $49.00
Total Open Bench Case Cost: $412.19 Plus Shipping
 
 

Yea 8020 is awesome stuff. I started using it in the early 2000’s when I worked in R&D at Los Alamos. I used it for all kinds of experimental systems through 2015 when I left the DOE. I did think about taking the drawings from online and having the table legs re-cut and adding in 1/4-20 mount holes to mount to the 8020 frame base. The table is actually quite secure on the 8020 while sitting on the T rubber cover. Additionally the cabling helps to secure it into place as well as the water pipes. Good luck with it. I adapted the PC fasteners to the 8020 rather than trying to adapt the 8020 to the PC standard sizes. The drawings for the open bench table are available on maker sites, and free for use if personal use is the only manufacturing changes you make. You can also post updated, redlined and changed drawings on the maker site. I had to prototype the whole thing and I sunk more than 500.00 getting the way I wanted it. So I think I’m done sinking money into it.

Thanks again for all the fantastic help on this man.  My kits coming along, waiting for some more parts.
 
I was able to find some M3 t-nuts to secure the OBT to the extrusions, using the two small holes on each of the legs.  Happy with the result, with the added mechanical strength (be happy to mail you a few, if you'd like).
 
I had some follow-up questions, if you have some time.
 
1.  I see what appears to be chrome feet on the updated picture - where did you source them?  
2.  I ran across a radiator mounting video on the install guide for the 420.  . I was wondering if you experimented with mounting the large radiator differently?  I was thinking of doing it horizontally, instead of vertically like you did.  Appreciate any experience you can share with respect to its orientation.  Last time I built something with a AIO was 7 years ago - that embedded video in the arctic link about was very informative to me.

-Steve

I have the same issues as you described.

I find that as of recently the standalone LEDSync.exe control is causing erratic and severe flickering of the card LEDs.
Did you find a workaround. I did contact EVGA as well and will reply if they give me a reasonable answer/workaround.

BTW I have the EVGA NVLink SLI Bridge and 2 x EVGA RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 Ultra

Thnx all put to the solution, running the led sync setup from the x1 map, then starting it from it's own map solved it.