Nereus

GTXJackBauer

Nereus

kougar
Personally I'm against silver coils.... it's adding more (+ a different) metal to the loop, and after it dissolves it's still floating around reacting. As long as metals aren't being mixed you don't need anti-corrosion additives... nickel and copper are generally a safe pairing. But even the small details like barbs and fittings need to be matched.
 
I understand about the space constraints. Some watercooling radiators are designed to mount external to the case, and others like the Alphacool Eiswand, or the NexXxos, or even the MO-RA3 simply stand externally. My very DIY first cooling loop was a 360 rad that mounted off the back of any tower case, something made by Koolance. Either way it's another option at least. 

Nickel plating and copper and brass are ok together, right? As long as there's no aluminum in there.

Yes, as long as you're not introducing a silver kill coil or silver/copper based biocide to the loop. 
 
EK has warned about using silver with their nickel plating blocks since it was would to create issues.  The nickel plating started flaking off the block for some.  Mind you this was almost 10 years ago.

Also for warranty reasons, say you were to build a all Corsair loop which I think isn't a bad idea because I feel their lineup is actually nice especially knowing their rads are Black Ice, I would stick with a clear fluid from Corsair.  Just use either the tubing and or RGB LEDs for coloring via iCue.  I'm sure you could build a massive ecosystem with liquid cooling, monitoring and controlling via iCue.

Yeah I've been looking at the Corsair Hydro X gear so I'd go with their fluid as well, but probably a different CPU block, possibly Optimus. I planned out a loop with a 360 and a 240 radiator in series.. with all the fittings etc it comes up to around $800.  ..that's a lot of cash just for cooling, and that's not including the GPU block (I'm assuming I'll get an EVGA Hydro Copper). Sure makes the AiO GPU more attractive lol.
 

 
$800 seems a bit high.  I would have thought with all blocks included via Corsair, it would run around $500-$600. I could be mistaken.

The fittings are definitely one of the most expensive things, which is silly given they're so cheap to make. 
 
Depending on your tubing quality and how you design your tube layout you can build loops without rotary fittings. In most cases you shouldn't need them (I have zero in my rig, the tubing quality is good enough that it handles the bends just fine). Many watercoolers use rotary fittings for convenience or aesthetics though. EK's ZMT is reportedly one the better quality tubing... I use DangerDen's Dreamflex but they stopped making that a decade ago, and DD sadly closed up shop not long after.
 
Edit: Will add that you shouldn't need to buy that many stop ports, the Corsair Hydro comes with plastic port caps. I recommend having at least one as a spare, but you don't need the rest. There's no end to the sheer amount of fittings you can find, and if you shop around you can probably find cheaper ones or someone that sells what you want in a bulk quantity. So without the rotary and misc plugs that's already almost 200 savings. And nobody should be charging you $20 for a single port plug, it's $3 of metal. Try other watercooling sites!

Try https://www.titanrig.com/ I've used them before myself and they have the Hydro X combo you wanted. They have a large enough selection you might get that total price down. (I think new sign ups also got a discount code, not sure if that promo is still running)
 
Guess I should've figured you'd need at least some rotary fittings for your specific setup, wasn't thinking. 
 
I saw your photo about the front/top radiators conflicting... but it looks like you could make the top mounted rad thicker? Surface area is king regardless of whether one is using air or watercooling and 30mm rads are on the thin side.. as long as it isn't a problem with something else then I'd recommend going thicker on the rad.

Cool GTX
To "do the Math to compute heat loads"
TDP & Calculating Delta-T
(excerpts)
First tip: Google is your best friend to help find TDP (Thermal Design Power) of your components to be cooled in your loop.
(CPU watts @load + GPU watts @load + GPU watts @load+ pump watts) x 0.85 = Loop TDP watt estimate
To help calculate a full system TDP, you can download the interactive TDP and radiator estimation sheet (link) I* put together to help you. 
(I*= the Author - from the link)
 --------------------------------------
More information in this thread:
Ready to try water cooling. Where to start? Library of links-basics to expert

Wow that link is really in-depth, thanks. Downloaded the spreadsheet and used it. Some of the calculation specs are not available so I used best estimate from similar gear or what data I could find on Google. A 360mm radiator alone is not really going to do a good job at all on the system I had in mind, particularly not a 30mm deep radiator - I mean it would work, but I'd still see quite a lot of heat under load, and overclocking would be limited. For the money, I'd be better sticking with the AiO setup (280mm for the CPU, 240mm for the GPU). However, the 360mm + 240mm radiator loop is clearly going to be better (even at 30mm deep), and that's the max configuration I can do in that case anyway. ..just so expensive..
 
 
 

Nereus

GTXJackBauer

Nereus

GTXJackBauer

Nereus

kougar
Personally I'm against silver coils.... it's adding more (+ a different) metal to the loop, and after it dissolves it's still floating around reacting. As long as metals aren't being mixed you don't need anti-corrosion additives... nickel and copper are generally a safe pairing. But even the small details like barbs and fittings need to be matched.
 
I understand about the space constraints. Some watercooling radiators are designed to mount external to the case, and others like the Alphacool Eiswand, or the NexXxos, or even the MO-RA3 simply stand externally. My very DIY first cooling loop was a 360 rad that mounted off the back of any tower case, something made by Koolance. Either way it's another option at least. 

Nickel plating and copper and brass are ok together, right? As long as there's no aluminum in there.

Yes, as long as you're not introducing a silver kill coil or silver/copper based biocide to the loop. 
 
EK has warned about using silver with their nickel plating blocks since it was would to create issues.  The nickel plating started flaking off the block for some.  Mind you this was almost 10 years ago.

Also for warranty reasons, say you were to build a all Corsair loop which I think isn't a bad idea because I feel their lineup is actually nice especially knowing their rads are Black Ice, I would stick with a clear fluid from Corsair.  Just use either the tubing and or RGB LEDs for coloring via iCue.  I'm sure you could build a massive ecosystem with liquid cooling, monitoring and controlling via iCue.

Yeah I've been looking at the Corsair Hydro X gear so I'd go with their fluid as well, but probably a different CPU block, possibly Optimus. I planned out a loop with a 360 and a 240 radiator in series.. with all the fittings etc it comes up to around $800.  ..that's a lot of cash just for cooling, and that's not including the GPU block (I'm assuming I'll get an EVGA Hydro Copper). Sure makes the AiO GPU more attractive lol.

$800 seems a bit high.  I would have thought with all blocks included via Corsair, it would run around $500-$600. I could be mistaken.

Yeah it does seem high. Planned it out based on this build, except need a couple of additional 90° fittings (rotary adapters) as I would mount the GPU vertically:

Using soft line, start at res/pump in the rear compartment of the case, a compression fitting from there leads to compression fitting + 90° adapter on CPU block, then another 90° adapter + compression fitting from CPU block leads to compression fitting on 240mm radiator on top, then another compression fitting from the 240mm rad leads to compression fitting + 90° adapter on GPU block, then another 90° fitting + compression fitting from GPU block leads to a compression fitting + 45° adapter on 360mm radiator, then a 90° adapter + compression fitting from 360mm rad runs back to the rear of the case to a compression fitting + 90° adapter on the res/pump. That's the loop. Also need another 90° adapter + compression fitting from the pump res for a drainage line which runs to a compression fitting + ball valve and stop cap. Also need a fill port on the res, plus a couple more stop caps on pump/res (the Corsair Hydro X pump/res has a bunch of inlet/outlets). Fill ports and stop gaps are same item there. Using all Corsair Hydro X gear:
 
res/pump $155
360mm rad (30mm) $70
240mm rad (30mm) $60
compression fittings (12) $81
90° rotary adapters (7) $108
45° rotary adapter (1) $27
ball valve (1) $20
fill port / stop cap (4) $60
soft line (2) $34
coolant (2) $36
 
That totals $650 not including a CPU block, or sales tax.
 
CPU block is $80 from Corsair, but I've been considering an Optimus block which is from $119 to $179 for the best one.
 
so total around $800..   then add NY sales tax is another $130 on top.. so now it's at $930!!!!     ..and then a Hydro Copper 30XX GPU on top of all that... omg.
 
Maybe I will go with the AiO after all....
 

Yup, that's pretty pricey. 
 
You forgot to add the fans too so another $100+. 
 
That's why AIOs are a affordable option.  Granted you won't get the delta-T from a custom but if set right, you could inch pretty close to one.
 
 
 

Nereus
 
Regretting having sold all my silver-plated fittings a few years back - I had a heap of them, whoever I sold them to got a really good deal. 
 
Oh look, I still have the photo from selling them:
 

 
 That was from this beast build:
 

 

 
That was one nice build you had there.  

Man that's tough knowing you got rid of the fittings.  That's easily $200+ in the amazing Bitspower.  


I myself use around x13 Silver Bitspower Fittings, x10 Bitspower rotary angled fittings (rotatry cost more), two straight fittings and a few different extenders to get the right height in a few places.  

They are still working strong and look good as new after almost 8-9+ years.  I also have changed their seals once every 3-5 years to be safe.

wmmills

GTXJackBauer
 I myself use around x13 Silver Bitspower Fittings, x10 Bitspower rotary angled fittings (rotatry cost more), two straight fittings and a few different extenders to get the right height in a few places.  
They are still working strong and look good as new after almost 8-9+ years.  I also have changed their seals once every 3-5 years to be safe.
 

 
Its all in the details,stuff that most would probably overlook. Im sure those seals, after being submerged in fluids for 3-5 years, must end up flaking apart by then when you take them out, no?!? I applaud your diligence, its nice to see.

Thanks.  They just get feel and look flat over time so I just replace the O-ring to get back that original sealed groove if you will.

It will be interesting to see just how hot the 3090 gets but I am going to say it's probably going to run pretty warm so a custom loop does seem to be the best way to go.

 
Almost 2 months later from the last post, and I finally received an email notification for the 3090 FTW3 Ultra, so that is en route and arriving some time this coming week.
 
I've committed to building a full water loop, even though I'm still a little 'meh' about the time needed building and maintaining it, but it's been ages since I've run a custom loop and the 3090 FTW3 Ultra is certainly a good reason to go for it now rather than later (or never). I'm going with soft tubing - I don't have the time or patience to go with hard tubing, even though the aesthetics are much nicer.
 
I'll continue with the i9-9900k CPU for now and wait to see how the Intel Rocket Lake CPU looks next year, and purchased an Optimus Signature V2 CPU block from a forum member a couple of weeks ago for it, and earlier today bit the bullet and ordered the Optimus Absolute GPU block for the 3090 FTW3 card. Both blocks are things of beauty, as well as very high performance (and expensive.. ugh).
 
Decided to try a 2x280mm radiator build so I can maintain a good cool airflow through the case - I'll continue with the 3x120mm intake fans at the front which came with the Corsair 680X case (LL120 RGB fans) and have the 280mm radiators mounted at top and bottom of the case, both as exhaust and push. It's going to be tight, I just hope everything will fit with the GPU mounted vertical and the combo pump/res sitting between the GPU and the motherboard...
 
I went with mostly Corsair fittings since they are made by Bitspower - everything I'm using is copper/brass and/or nickel. Here's a list of components:
 
Optimus Signature V2 CPU block
Optimus Absolute GPU block
Corsair Hydro XR5 280mm radiators (x2) - these are actually Corsair branded HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis GTS radiators.
Corsair Hydro XD5 Gen 2 pump/reservoir combo
Corsair Hydro X compression fittings (x12)
Corsair Hydro X 45° rotary adapter (x2)
Corsair Hydro X 90° rotary adapter (x4)
Corsair Hydro X fill port
Corsair Hydro X ball valve
Bitspower stop fittings (x3)
EK Quantum torque rotary extender
EK Duraclear 3/8" x 1/2" soft tubing
EK Cryofuel (clear)
bequiet! SilentWings3 140mm PWM high speed fans model BL071 (x4) - these have good static pressure. I use them on my existing CLC280 AiO cooler.

So there it is 'on paper'. The GPU cooler may take a month or more to arrive so that will probably hold things up, but it'll give me time to test and rinse the radiators and eyeball how things will fit (if they fit!).
 
   
 
 
 

 
No worries. Not my first loop, I just don't have the time or patience (or heat gun etc.) to deal with hard tubing.
 
Here's one of my first full loops from nearly 10 years ago - a couple of GTX 480 FTW Hydro Copper cards. It was an absolute beast at the time.  :)