You could disassemble & confirm it is not just a loose wire. 


 
Aftermarket Air & AIO coolers do exist - Check, for compatible parts

Arctic
 
Several 2 & 3 fan designs.  If you go this route --> Make a Thread, post some pictures & give your feedback on the product
 
NZXC Kraken G12
 (excerpt)
Nvidia
GeForce RTX 2080*, 2080 Ti*, Titan X, Titan, Geforce GTX 1080 Ti, 1080, 1070, 1060, 980 Ti, 980, 970, 960, 780 Ti, 780, 770, 760, 680, 670, 660Ti, 660, 580, 570

*RTX uses the "A" brackets for mounting.
 
Known Incompatibility - Graphics Cards Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060
 
Compatibility - AIO Liquid Coolers
NZXT
Kraken X72, X62, X52, X42, X61, X41, X31, X60, X40
Corsair
H105, H110, H90, H75 (CW-9060015-WW only), H55, H50 (CW-906006-WW only)
Thermaltake
Water 3.0 Riing RGB 360, 280, 240, Red 280, 140,
Water 3.0 Ultimate, Extreme S, Extreme, Pro, Performer
Water 2.0 Extreme, Pro, Performer
Antec
KUHLER H2O 920V4, 620V4, 920, 620
Zalman
LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310

 
Maybe one of these people from Asetek would have some information - I believe your AIO was a Asetek product


Introducing Shawn "I'm Hit" and Asetek_Dennis from Asetek!
 

EVGA_JacobF
You guys may have seen "I'M Hit" around as the EVGA Gaming news reporter and liquid cooling discussions from back in the day. He is now a part of Asetek and will be here to help us answer any Asetek related questions!
 
Also introducing Asetek_Dennis, technology Evangelist from Asetek who is also here to assist where needed.

Help me to give both of them a warm welcome to the EVGA forums and don't feel shy to reach out if you have any questions!! 
 

 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You could Make a New Thread asking for information or I could Move your thread to --> EVGA CLC/HYBRID Coolers


Home » All Forums » [Other EVGA Products] » EVGA CLC/HYBRID Coolers

Is your Card with a Pre-Installed Hybrid Cooler if so is your card still under Warranty?
It comes with 3 Years and can be extend to 5 Years or even 10 Years.

gunz_incarnate
I did get my card with the pre-installed hybrid cooler and it is no longer under warranty. I don't think they could do much with it if it was under warranty as I can't seem to find a pump that's reasonably priced to replace that hybrid. I may have to either go w/ air, the nzxt aio setup, or get a custom loop. I just don't like the idea of not putting something on the vram as it gets pretty hot when i game.

You could get a replacement card with a new model if it had still been under warranty but EVGA has hardware to cover warranties.
It is separate from Stock that is for sale.

@gunz_incarnate,

gunz_incarnate
Hey, I've been having an issue with my aio pump for the sc2 hybrid.

If you don't mind me asking, was the problem caused by something you did, or did the pump fail for other reasons like a defect? I ask because I've had problems with the pumps of two 1080 Ti SC2 hybrid kits, which I installed myself.
 
FWIW I found this video interesting: Asetek on Liquid Cooler Failure Rates, Causes, & Reliability
 
 

DamonLynch
@gunz_incarnate,

gunz_incarnate
Hey, I've been having an issue with my aio pump for the sc2 hybrid.

If you don't mind me asking, was the problem caused by something you did, or did the pump fail for other reasons like a defect? I ask because I've had problems with the pumps of two 1080 Ti SC2 hybrid kits, which I installed myself.
 
FWIW I found this video interesting:
 
 

I think mine died of "old age".

If you still have the 980 hybrid the pump will work with the 1080ti
All the pump/rad are the same, the rest of the kit (shroud, screws, ect.) is what is different for each GPU

just had the same issue with my card now appears most of the coolant has gone so I’m looking to replace the aio pump/radiator but the evga one are nowhere to be found. I saw the post below highlighting aio coolers. Do I understand this right that a Corsair h55 would replace the evga pump like for like? Or that I’d need to use a g12 bracket?
 
Compatibility - AIO Liquid Coolers

Corsair
H105, H110, H90, H75 (CW-9060015-WW only), H55, H50 (CW-906006-WW only)
Thermaltake
Water 3.0 Riing RGB 360, 280, 240, Red 280, 140, 
Water 3.0 Ultimate, Extreme S, Extreme, Pro, Performer
Water 2.0 Extreme, Pro, Performer
Antec
KUHLER H2O 920V4, 620V4, 920, 620
Zalman
LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310oí

I have the same problem, my 1080Ti hybrid pump died yesterday and it's out of warranty. I'm building a custom loop and was going to bypass the GPU until I'm able to get a new 30-series GPU with a waterblock (will likely take a while...), but now I'm thinking about jerryrigging the hybrid cooler into the custom loop. I'd be willing to buy a waterblock for the GPU, but those are also gone...
 
If I cut the AIO hoses and use adapters to connect the loop's 11mm ID inlet-outlet hoses into the small AIO hoses, in theory it should work just fine, despite some minor loss in total flowrate due to the restriction generated by the small hose and cold plate versus what one would expect from a proper waterblock...
 
I might even open the cold plate in this case to get rid of the impeller and make sure everything is clean and flushed before adding it to the loop.
 
What do you think? Am I completely off the reservation here?
 
Thanks!

caldm4
1. Coolant outlet pipe get hot (but slowly). Likewise the inlet and radiator.  (I suspect the pump of being weak). I did get some air in it but managed to clear it. 
 
2. The radiator has air in it. A lot of air. As you rotate the radiator the liquid glugs around.

 
I notice the same thing in mine, with the water sloshing inside the radiator, and it's always been like that. They never fully fill AIOs, there's always some air left for a variety of reasons.  Permeation is also an extremely slow process. If you never lost fluid from a leak, which is also pretty rare, chances are the fluid volume isn't a problem. Besides, even if you had just half the radiator volume there, it would still be enough to maintain prime in the pump if the radiator is kept above it with the hoses at the bottom (which ensures air is always at the upper portion of the radiator and not risking getting sucked down the hose).
 

caldm4
3. No matter what I do with the radiator I can’t seem to get it hot apart from the edge with the two pipes. No amount of shaking or moving has much of an effect. Maybe there is a blockage. I can’t comment as I don’t really know how the fluid flows. 
 
4. The pump has a very slight rattle to it. I suspect air maybe but I have made a big effort to get it out. no effect at all.

 
Now, from what you said about the outlet hose getting hot and how the pump is behaving, it does suggest a faulty pump.
 
I used to have my card installed in an Alienware Graphics Amplifier (eGPU) for a long time, and due to obvious space limitations I wasn't able to place the radiator above the pump, so eventually some air would find its way into the pump after it was left off for a while. All I had to do in that case was tilt the eGPU sideways to place the radiator above the pump, and I would instantly hear the air being expelled from the pump and temps dropping from ~80C to ~30C in a couple of seconds, while the air coming from the radiator also got warm. So losing prime due to air is a thing, but it also recovers instantly if your pump is fine.
 
The rattle you mention can be anything from the pump spinning too slowly to it not spinning at all and just vibrating in place. Won't go too deep into electric motors here, but the stator has just two poles, so it's quite sensitive to issues.
 

caldm4
What I really feel like doing is trying to take the radiator outlet pipe out and try and see the coolant level/pump flow. I’m not sure how hard it would be to get off and put back on. Anyone tried?

 
I wouldn't, at least not before doing everything else that can be done. I've seen the footage of how those hoses are inserted during manufacturing, and it looks like a one-way road if you take it out. Look for the AIO manufacturing process from Gamers Nexus, that's where I saw it, it's worth it.
 
Here's what I would do to diagnose if I were you:

1. To rule out air in the pump: This pump normally primes itself when the radiator is above it...but it's better to be safe than sorry. With the radiator above the pump and the hoses at the lower part, shake the card around in its own axes to make sure all air is indeed inside the radiator and not in the pump - this will assist any trapped air inside the pump to rise to the hoses and into the radiator. Reinstall the card maintaining the radiator above it at all times and turn it on. If the behavior continues, carry on with the steps below.
2. To check fluid flow: Maintaining the radiator in an upright position with the hoses at the bottom, unplug the radiator fan and put some load in your GPU (i.e.: a benchmark). Check with your hand to see which parts of the radiator are getting warm over time. You should notice the entire radiator warming up quite fast and as a whole as the fluid enters it, flows through the first half, then over the top (opposite to the hoses), and down the other half. Since there's no fan to push the heat out, it should be quite homogeneous. If for any reason only part of the radiator is getting warm, it likely indicates a low flow rate, which is an issue with the pump or, very unlikely, an obstruction somewhere.
3. The final test, to confirm if your pump is working and to see if fluid volume is really an issue, is to force the pump to lose prime (force air in it), then provide fluid and see how it deals with it. It's not the best thing to allow the pump to run dry for too long, so keep that in mind. The overall idea here is to first make sure the pump is starved then make sure it's primed - this will rule out the pump so that the fluid level can be reliably tested. If you try to test fluid level before fully ruling out the pump, your confirmation bias may cloud your diagnosis. Not judging here at all, but you seem to be inclined to think it's the fluid volume, so any evidence you see can point you to confirm that diagnosis...understand?
   1. Uninstall the card, reconnect the radiator fan, place the radiator below the card with the hoses at the top this time (to allow all the air into the hoses and inside the pump) and shake the radiator around until you don't hear sloshing - this means air rose to the hoses and pump.
   2. Now do the same with the card, keeping the pump above the radiator at all times and trying to keep the hoses at the bottom of the card (to allow water to fall to the radiator and air to rise).
   3. After this, while still keeping the radiator below the pump and with its hoses up, reinstall the card, preferably sideways (so with the hoses coming out of the side of the card).
   4. Now turn the system on and listen carefully - although unlikely, the pump may regain prime right from the beginning, so you may hear it right away.
   5. After logging into Windows, start monitoring GPU temperature - if there's no flow it should be above 60C. Fire up some benchmarking, which will force a temperature spike and FPS drop.
   6. You should notice some vibration if you put your finger where the hoses enter the card, which means the pump is working (this is what I don't see in my system, for example, meaning a dead pump). If there's no vibration....hm....
   7. Now invert the radiator direction (flip it to hoses-down position) and bring it above the card. Turn the computer on its side if you can, so that the hoses exit the card upwards instead of sideways. You should hear a "swoosh" sound, which is clear indication that air has been expelled from the pump and circulation started. Your temps should also immediately drop to the 30~40C range. If this doesn't happen, your pump is not working. If it happens, your pump may be fine, so it's time to test fluid volume.
   8. With the temperature stabilised put the radiator at hoses-up position (so upright with the hoses at the top exiting parallel to the ground). If you don't hear any air sounds coming from the pump and temperature is stable, it's a good indication that your fluid volume should be fine, but carry on if you want.
   9. Now bring the radiator at the same level as the pump, still hoses-up. You shouldn't notice any changes again, but if you do it may be an indication that your fluid level is below average. However, the card is working with the radiator above the pump, which is how it's supposed to be installed, so fluid level shouldn't be an issue unless your radiator is installed at the same level or below the pump.

 
Sorry for the long post. Let us know how it goes.
 
Cheers
-LR

Yeah, I'm kind of disappointed too. I'd expect replacement pumps to be available for at least 4~5 years after launch, especially for something that is not just some off-the-shelf part. EVGA probably just assumed it would last for much longer than it does. With the current GPU shortage this sucks even more.
 
Before you give up, if you're comfortable with doing so, I'd advise you to open the pump cover to take a look at the board and wiring, as it may be a simple problem. Just for reference, after I wrote that previous post I tried turning my pump on again and failed...then I tried knocking the GPU a little bit harder, kinda like an old tube monitor, and voilá, it's working...so in my case there's probably a loose wire or something in there that is easily fixable, or the impeller is locking in place, or whatever. Maybe you're just as lucky... Find a 12V source and try powering the pump with the cover open to see how it behaves, it may shed some light on the issue.
 
I was looking into the price of the whole thing...looks like $130 for the X53 + $30 for the G12 (it seems to be compatible only with the X series). So $160 + taxes is the cheapest way to get your card working again if the pump is really dead.
 
To be honest, I'd invest a bit more to go for an entry-level custom loop at that point, even if using some second-hand parts, and jerry rig it to the GPU cold plate using plastic or brass adapters to convert between hose sizes. It's not for the faint of heart, but it can be done. The upside is that it's a nice investment for the CPU as well, and can be expanded as desired. A triple rad can easily take care of both the CPU and GPU.
 
Gamers Nexus has a teardown of the Hybrid AIO that makes it easy to see what needs to be disassembled to remove the impeller, if so desired. Only caveat is that there's a small piece of aluminum above the cold plate, but if you use a clear premix like the one from Thermaltake (C1000, I think) and change the fluid every 6~9 months there should be no problem at all. People exaggerate on the effect of mixing metals in a loop - it's going to be mostly an aesthetic issue and it will take a long time to manifest itself. The original Hybrid AIO uses an aluminum rad and copper cold plate, just as an example.
 
Anyways, I digress. I hope you find a way to fix your pump without having to spend $$ to adapt a new AIO.
 
-LR
 
EDIT: 12V source, not 5V source...I had USB in my mind...

Liquid Permeation Check After 1 Year: GPU Hybrid - Gamers Nexus video on YouTube. 

In my case the pump was just playing dead...lol
Gave it a harder smack and it started working again. I'll open it to check for any loose wires when I get some time...
I did remove the pump a few weeks ago and replaced the thermal compound. It reduced temps only by a couple of degrees...paste was a bit dried out but was still doing its job, I guess.
 
caldm4's case seems more complicated, though. His pump is likely dead or very advanced in the process of. I don't think he'll be able to avoid going the harder (and more $$) way...

Great job!
 
So the impeller was covered in gunk...that's interesting. With the other bits you mentioned coming out with the water, sounds like you had a rare case of contamination in your AIO. 1/5 volume loss...that's very unusual. I'd say it could've been an issue with vacuum for that unit in the factory, leading to less volume being inserted and with some contamination from that.
 
The way it is now it should last for a while, I assume. Since now you have opened it and there's another fluid in there that's not original (not that the original did you any good...), I'd schedule some regular maintenance every 6 months to open it, flush and see how things are looking. My concerns are if there's any gunk still left in the radiator, and the "distilled water" from the tumble dryer, which could induce some weird things in there, like bacteria and algae...but hey, now you know how to open it, when you do it again it'll be much easier.
 
Next time I'd use some proper distilled water (buy it in Walmart, baby food section, costs less than $1/gal) plus some inhibitor and biocide. A clear premix or concentrate should end up being cheaper, like the one from Thermaltake (which I think is more aggressive on the inhibitor than the one from EK, but that's just a guess).
 
Oh, and at the memory you mentioned the TIM had turned into dry clay...you mean the thermal pad...? If you need to replace that you should use a new thermal pad, not thermal paste...you probably know know that, but I'm just making sure. My TIM was also very dry, but seemed to be performing well, as I didn't see any meaningful difference after applying Kryonaut. I didn't touch the pads.
 
Either way, you saved at least $160 bucks...I'd call it a day.