It is a learning curve, oh and never set the Voltage to 0
https://www.3dmark.com/compare/pr/101373/pr/101375/pr/101296
Chiller Water Coolant Temperature down to 4.2°C or 39.56°F @ 22% Humidity

Sajin

wwxww

bcavnaugh
https://www.3dmark.com/compare/pr/101387/pr/101373/pr/101385
Core clock 2,220 MHz Memory bus clock 2,138 MHz
Chiller Coolant Temperature down to 4.0°C or 39.2°F @ 22% Humidity

Wow bcav...you really getting it dialed in! Very nice.

Thanks All,
Goal today is 11000, odd cool weather was a big help today.

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/pr/101402/pr/101401/pr/101403
Core clock 2235 MHz Not Enough
Memory bus clock 2140 MHz

Zeddivile
3DMark 11 (Extreme)
HOF Single Card #2 -21779 Points
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/13342644
 
Superposition SingleCard#1
https://benchmark.unigine.com/results/rid_557d126f80024c14a919a83f61dfa8c1

Nice Zedd. Very nice.

Please avoid offtopic, personal attacks and unrelated posts, keep it about the card. Thanks all.

Nice to see we can please everyone. Thank you TiN_EE 
EVGA RTX 2080 Ti K|NGP|N (HC Waterblock) Water/Chiller/Sub Zero Cooling Club

I'm not meaning to hijack your thread, either - I'll share some more thoughts on the Kingpin specific thread. Apologies.
 

bcavnaugh

tt0ne
BC,
 
No buts about it - you took your CPU down to 8 degrees so the water is super chilly - which is great - but look at mem3 and mem1 and mem2. There is something seriously wrong. I'm telling you, you aren't making contact on mem1, partial contact on mem2 and great contact on mem1.
 
You think  it is all good in the hood?! I can't imagine.

I do not think anything is wrong or that is under the hood.
The Memory has always been hotter than the GPU 1/2 or the GPU PCB.
Maybe other can report on their KPE Hydro Coppers.
 
I will do a compare between PX1 and OLED when I can.

Currently playing around with my custom loop (2x EK SE 480mm, 2x EK PE 480mm), have the HC installed (I think properly);
Need to stop, but last Port Royal run just squeaked past 9k 
As far as sustained temps, here's what I saw running the PR Stress Test
Just using PX1, with the memory clock at 8300mhz, and core hovering around 2115mhz:  
Max Observed Temps (Ambient is ~23C) 

• MEM1@57C, MEM2@53C, MEM3@48C
• GPU1@49C, GPU2@51C
• PWR1@49C, PWR2@47C, PWR3@47C, PWR4@51C, PWR5@44C

EDIT: Forgot to mention that I'm using the right side as the inlet, and left side as the outlet; unclear if this has any effect on MEM 

Killercds
Currently playing around with my custom loop (2x EK SE 480mm, 2x EK PE 480mm), have the HC installed (I think properly);
Need to stop, but last Port Royal run just squeaked past 9k 
As far as sustained temps, here's what I saw running the PR Stress Test
Just using PX1, with the memory clock at 8300mhz, and core hovering around 2115mhz:  
Max Observed Temps (Ambient is ~23C) 

• MEM1@57C, MEM2@53C, MEM3@48C
• GPU1@49C, GPU2@51C
• PWR1@49C, PWR2@47C, PWR3@47C, PWR4@51C, PWR5@44C

EDIT: Forgot to mention that I'm using the right side as the inlet, and left side as the outlet; unclear if this has any effect on MEM 

Why are some of these GPU die temps so high with the HC block? Are you running your fans at super low RPM or something?

My card is in a case that behaves like an oven in a room that is hitting 82 F sometimes and my GPU1 temp maxes out at like 54 C in a game that is very GPU intensive. Granted my memory temps are much higher, but what gives?

I think maybe part of our Temperature thoughts is we are comparing them to the FTW3 and maybe we should not.
Kind of like the other Thread there was to much FTW3 comparing and we need to keep the FTW3 and KPE Separate IMO.

I understand the cards are not the same and I understand that the layouts of the PCB and where things have been engineered are vastly different. What is NOT different is how cooling works. Instead of beating around the bush or trying to pick the right words to avoid social retardation or to offend anyone the truth of the matter is - the KPE HydroCopper sucks. Furthermore, it's even more evidence of how good a job Tin and Kingpin did with the engineering of the AIO solution. Don't get me wrong, the KPE is an engineering marvel and was worth every penny I paid for it if for nothing else than just the customized software tools that accompany it or the time it saves from having to volt mod other inferior 2080s. But the Hydro Copper Waterblock - for $349 is a huge disappointment. I have both a hydro copper for my 2080 Ti FTW3 Ultra and for my KPE. Never mind the obvious issues with flow restriction or the pros and cons of nickel plated vs no nickel plated and things of that nature - just holding both of them in my hands and just looking at them it's obvious there was a QA issue. The KPE looked like it was made from a fudge machine, the finish is uneven, the copper looked like it still had plastic wrap on it and we won't talk about the broken frame that leaves the LCD hanging off the side that I had to jeri-rig during installation or that my hands being black from touching the area where the inlet and outlet ports are located because it turns out that there is some sort of untreated oil substance that somehow never got removed between the time it was manufactured and when it was packaged up. Based on that is it really inconceivable that maybe - just maybe - the precision and attention to detail needed for something as worthy as the KPE 2080 Ti might just be missing in the Chinese factory that they were  manufactured in? As you all know a few millimeters is all it takes to differentiate great cooling and no cooling.
 
Let me state it another way. I agree - let's not compare the FTW3 and the Kingpin. There is no comparison. The KPE is superior in every way. But surely we can compare HC waterblocks. Sadly, it is my estimation as an owner of both that the FTW3 version is cheaper and yet of much higher quality because just like my KPE 2080 can beat the shiz out of my FTW3 in all benchmarks my HC waterblock on my FTW3 kicks the crap out of my HC waterblock on my KPE when it comes to cooling. And not just by a little.
 
Presuming your screenshot which showed your GPU core at 8C was taken at idle load how can your mem1 which make up the most isolated ICs on the entire board (your mem2 and mem3 are sitting between your core and your power delivery circuitry) possibly be anything other than a few degrees +/- of 8C? I can understand why you might see something like that with the AIO which had focus cooling on the GPU only but not with a full copper waterblock hooked up to a high performance water chiller.
 
If I'm the only person who feels this way then I'm open to correction and am willing to dismiss it as another one of my idiosyncrasies. Again, I want to reiterate that I'm in love with my KPE GPU (and my FTW3 and 13 other evga products of various SKUs), love eVGA as a company. I have a little idol made in TIN's likeness in my living room where people who come to my house have no choice but to bow to it in respect of the engineering gods. Nothing to say about Kingpin - I highly doubt he will ever buy an nVidia product with my name on it. Lots of positivity coming from me - I hope you can all feel it. Nevertheless, the KPE HC Waterblock is a horrible disappointment.

You're not wrong @tt0ne.  EVGA should have stuck with Swiftech or EK like they did in the past instead of charging an unheard premium (you could pretty much grab a custom CPU starter kit for that much) for a subpar (resistant flow) WB from china who we still don't know who the mfger is. 

Zeddivile
I tested the HC on my KPE and found that it performed better than the CLC with regards to mem temps and gpu core temps. I am at a work convention but when I get back ill post some data.

While Hybrid Cooler is Much better this  time around the Hydro Copper Water Block still Cools way better than the Hybrid Cooler.