Hi all,
 
So I built this custom loop back in November. Cleaned rad, CPU block, then ran distilled water through it for over a day for both leak testing and to rinse out any remaining particles, etc.
 
I purchased EKWB's new Cryofuel which includes:
 
"EK-CryoFuel also contains synergistic corrosion inhibitors to protect metals commonly found in computer liquid cooling systems. It has been tested in accordance with BS5117 (ASTM D1384) and found to meet corrosion standards for copper, brass, aluminum and stainless steel. This coolant also contains scale and biological inhibitors to help prevent fouling – thus promoting long operational life and high thermal efficiency.
All EK-CryoFuel mixtures are biodegradable (90% in a period of 10 days) and will not remain in the environment or cause any bioaccumulation. EK-CryoFuel offers a 2-year shelf life from date of bottling.
Designed specifically for computer liquid cooling systems, we found our inspiration for CryoFuel in cryogenic fuels that are used at extremely low temperatures to operate in space machinery.
Characteristics:
- Low electrical conductivity
- Biological growth inhibition
- Corrosion protection according to BS5117 (ASTM D1384) standards"
 
Per their website, this is all you're supposed to have to add to your loop as it contains everything necessary without the need for extra biocide, kill coils, etc.
 
Well, I started to notice what looked like bluish particles in my CPU block and it's been getting worse. I just built this 3 months ago and would really hate to have to disassemble it AGAIN. What are your recommendations going forward? Buy some UV lights to try and kill it, buy a kill coil? (note: I do have the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM pump so not sure whether it would try to suck up the kill coil and/or damage the pump if I placed it in the res portion).
 
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
 
(Pic 1) http://tinypic.com/r/2u4j0py/9 (link if you can't see the pic below)
 

 
 
 
(Pic 2) http://tinypic.com/r/301dilx/9
 

 
 
 
Besides this, the coolant has been great so far. Color and clearness has been maintained, no visual "gunking up", etc.
 
 
Parts (I included amounts too but obviously for some things there are extra):
EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple)
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. sleeved pump)
EK-Supremacy EVO - Gold
EK-CryoFuel Navy Blue Concentrate 100 mL
EK-CryoFuel Navy Blue Premix 900 mL (used this one)
EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)
EK-AF Y-Splitter Rotary 2F-1M G1/4 - Nickel
EK-AF Y-Splitter Rotary 2F-1M G1/4 - Nickel
(2) EK-DuraClear 11,1/15,9mm 3M RETAIL
(12) EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Blue
EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - Black Nickel
EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black Nickel
(3) EK-AF Extender 6mm M-M G1/4 - Black Nickel
(4) EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel
(3) EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel
EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 - Black Nickel
 
 
 

     

did you happen to run any dyes or additives in this loop prior to rebuilding it? it looks like left over dye maybe. either way the only way to get rid of it will be to tear it down and clean your whole loop again. otherwise it will only get worse. the rad is the most likely culprit for leftover crud. the best way ive found to be certain that a rad is completely clean is to empty it into a clear glass or plastic bowl after flushing it with vinegar and water. if you cant get the rad clean with vinegar ive used CLR to good effect. ive used a baby bottle brush in the past to clean fittings and small pieces of tubing but its usually easier to just replace the tubing. ive heard that primochill makes a post cleanup mix that is supposed to help get rid of the last little nasties too. the only additive i use is petras pt nuke mixed with distilled. it has worked great for me for years. that may be worth a try. good luck :(

Did you Flush all the New Parts before using them?
Petra's Tech PT Nuke Cu Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
Petra's Tech Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
But no longer use
I use this now:
$14.99 Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, UV Blue, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-702BU-B
$14.99 Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-702CL-B
 
The Best but only comes in Clear.
 $19.99 Koolance 705 Liquid Coolant, Electrically Insulative, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-705CL-B
A Good Killer, I this once a month for about 30 Minutes on all my New Rigs and once Every 3 or 4 Months for about 15 Minutes.
AquaTop In-Line UV Sterilizer 10W - IL10UV  (DO NOT LOOK AT THIS LIGHT WITH YOUR EYES)

bcavnaugh
Did you Flush all the New Parts before using them?
 
A Good Killer, I this once a month for about 30 Minutes on all my New Rigs and once Every 3 or 4 Months for about 15 Minutes.
AquaTop In-Line UV Sterilizer 10W - IL10UV  (DO NOT LOOK AT THIS LIGHT WITH YOUR EYES)

 
I used hot water in the rad numerous times, shaking it etc., had to clean CPU block after I took it apart, maybe it was my fault because I didn't use vinegar? But I then ran distilled water through all parts for over a day in a test loop THEN assembled my loop and used the coolant above. (the premix and concentrate are the same thing. I ordered one of each so I could make more if needed using the concentrate.)
 
There's been no temp changes either so at least that's good. Do you think using that light would help at least for a bit and clear the CPU block? Not sure if there's any buildup in my rad but there'd be no way to check really until I took everything apart.

bcavnaugh
Using Hot Water may have caused it.
I use only Distilled Water Heated up on the Stove.
I also rinse all the Block Parts and Even the Tubing before I install any parts.
 
"Not sure if there's any buildup in my rad but there'd be no way to check really until I took everything apart."
I would not think so because Algae Needs Light to Grow.

 
Well, it was still distilled water, just heated up in a Pyrex measuring cup (which was rinsed with distilled water prior) and then heated in a microwave.
 
And true, well this room is mostly dark as we have blackout curtains. So the only time it's really "light" in here is when the PC is on and I have the lamp next to me on. Maybe it's just something in the fluid then? As you can see though, the specs are where the coolant isn't even really "touching".

EK responded and said that it appears to be oil from the O-ring and offered a replacement O-ring. Are there any long-term effects to NOT disassembling my entire loop to change it besides aesthetic?

It is highly unlikely it would cause any issues, but there is a small chance of course. The oil is there for a reason and I would assume it won’t hurt anything.

I have seen this before, but I think this is simply O-Ring grease, Bitspower and EK are know for this and you will literally see green and yellow slime on the O-Ring this is harmless.  You want nice greased O-Rings so they stay in place, its common practice.  This is from my system and as you can see its got green slime on the O-Ring, its completely harmless, I have contacted both Bitspower and EK before on this because I was pretty concerned and thought I had algae, and they said they same thing, its harmless, sure it doesn't look that great.  Also I just flush my parts when I get them with distilled water and dry them, no need for special chemicals, who knows if you will able to get it all out and how it would react to the coolant?  Hope this helps and that you can get this figured out. 

bcavnaugh
Did you Flush all the New Parts before using them?
Petra's Tech PT Nuke Cu Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
Petra's Tech Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
But no longer use
I use this now:
$14.99 Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, UV Blue, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-702BU-B
$14.99 Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-702CL-B

The Best but only comes in Clear.
 $19.99 Koolance 705 Liquid Coolant, Electrically Insulative, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-705CL-B
A Good Killer, I this once a month for about 30 Minutes on all my New Rigs and once Every 3 or 4 Months for about 15 Minutes.
AquaTop In-Line UV Sterilizer 10W - IL10UV  (DO NOT LOOK AT THIS LIGHT WITH YOUR EYES)

I read that the 705 liquid doesn't use Ethylene Glycol but instead Polypropylene Glycol which has "worse" heat transfer properties, though that's just on paper, in practice its probably different.  If you are going to use Koolance coolant just get the 702 with Ethylene Glycol, though Polypropylene Glycol is not toxic and Ethylene Gylcol is toxic.  And to OP an alternative to Koolance 702 is DP Ultra Clear, which is cheaper for 5L $27.99, 1L $8 vs $89.99, I highly recommend it, but its down to you in the end.  Saying 705 is the best in the end is misleading.  You can clearly see on the PPC website description below.  

 

good to see you found the cause. greasy o rings...ill have to keep that in mind for future builds.

SethH

maxfly
good to see you found the cause. greasy o rings...ill have to keep that in mind for future builds.

Yeah though it does look like particles. Could be the dye/color of the coolant mixing with the grease. Quite honestly I'm not even going to bother replacing it or cleaning it until I have to do maintenance. For minor aesthetics, it's not worth tearing down the entire thing.

i hear ya, i hate doing regular maintenance much less an immediate reconstruction!. i think your right on, the dye is just sticking to the greasies.

Krzysztof47

bcavnaugh
Did you Flush all the New Parts before using them?
Petra's Tech PT Nuke Cu Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
Petra's Tech Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
But no longer use
I use this now:
$14.99 Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, UV Blue, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-702BU-B
$14.99 Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-702CL-B

The Best but only comes in Clear.
 $19.99 Koolance 705 Liquid Coolant, Electrically Insulative, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz)   Part No.  LIQ-705CL-B
A Good Killer, I this once a month for about 30 Minutes on all my New Rigs and once Every 3 or 4 Months for about 15 Minutes.
AquaTop In-Line UV Sterilizer 10W - IL10UV  (DO NOT LOOK AT THIS LIGHT WITH YOUR EYES)

Great advice though I read that the 705 liquid doesn't use Ethylene Glycol but instead Polypropylene Glycol which has "worse" heat transfer properties, though that's just on paper, in practice its probably different.  If you are going to use Koolance coolant just get the 702 with Ethylene Glycol, though Polypropylene Glycol is not toxic and Ethylene Gylcol is very toxic.  And to OP an alternative to Koolance 702 is DP Ultra Clear, which is around 56% cheaper for 5L $49.99 vs $89.99, I highly recommend it, but its down to you in the end.  Saying 705 is the best in the end is well... misleading, but that's just my opinion.  You can clearly see on the PPC website description below.  Again great info, clear coolant if you ask me is the best, just my opinion.  

i would stay away from dp ultra, the red anyways, it lost color in two different systems on me and ended up looking like light tea, not sure why. replaced with ek cryrofuel red and color has been perfect since. 

It's crucial to remove coolant on 3 months and clean loop on 6-7.
Cleaning I mean uninstall waterblock completely and with softest teeth brush and hot water you clean them and carefull screw to avoid damage screews, that mean perfect allen key and not tight as animal.
Small force and undameged o-ring is enought to avoid leaking. 
I'm not sure about chemicals for nickel plated cooper fittings and blocks.
EKWB say only water, that mean only water and softest teeth brush.
Some people use same coolant 2-3 years, they back him inside after cleaning, that's not smart.
It would be nice to someone launch completely harmless coolant for electronic component and biorganisms.
If some brand get confirmation for that they could profit a lot of money on some coolant with nice smell as Arctic Cleaner for thermal paste.
 
 

Vlada011
It's crucial to remove coolant on 3 months and clean loop on 6-7.
Cleaning I mean uninstall waterblock completely and with softest teeth brush and hot water you clean them and carefull screw to avoid damage screews, that mean perfect allen key and not tight as animal.
Small force and undameged o-ring is enought to avoid leaking. 
I'm not sure about chemicals for nickel plated cooper fittings and blocks.
EKWB say only water, that mean only water and softest teeth brush.
Some people use same coolant 2-3 years, they back him inside after cleaning, that's not smart.
It would be nice to someone launch completely harmless coolant for electronic component and biorganisms.
If some brand get confirmation for that they could profit a lot of money on some coolant with nice smell as Arctic Cleaner for thermal paste.
 
 

This is not always the case if you use Koolance 702/705 they have a loop life of 3 years, and DP Ultra 1-3 years, depends what metals you have in the loop.  Both 702/705 and DP Ultra are true mixed metal coolants and can have ALU in the same loop.  Heck when I cleaned my GPU's the other day there was no debris at all and that was a year after using DP Ultra Clear, great coolant.  Its best to clean your loop once a year if you are using Koolance and DP, since they have such a long loop life.