Update, CPU and GPU temps are identical as when LM was originally applied.

Nice temps but I think it's too risky.

EVGATech_JosephL

Asploit
Do any EVGA officials browse this forum?

Yes... Muahahaha 
 
But in all seriousness I highly recommend that you DO NOT use liquid metal for cooling. The cost of voiding the warranty and buying a new GPU is not worth a few degrees. It's much cheaper to buy a Hybrid cooler and your temperatures will be much better!

Had to laugh reading this post and remembering the posts about the hybrid coolers shorting out gpus

Neutro
I'm sorry but all the people saying that "it's too risky to use LM" just dont know how to use it properly.
 
The only way you can fry your GPU is if some LM is spilled near the small components near the GPU die when the computer is turned on.
 
Knowing this you can :
 
1°) protect these small components by applying a protective coat like nail polish or black rubber duck tape,
2°) apply the smallest amout of LM as possible to ensure that there is not enough to leak outside the GPU die.
 
If you do these 2 steps carefully it's impossible that LM get in contact of the small components near the GPU die so it's impossible to fry the GPU.
 
Hybrid coolers get 55°C full load temps at best, with a custom watercooling and LM you get 30°C at full load. It's not just "a few degrees", it's a huge gap!

 
We do understand but not worth the risk.  No such thing as impossible as accidents happen all the time. 
 
To each their own at the end of the day.

GTXJackBauerWe do understand but not worth the risk.  No such thing as impossible as accidents happen all the time. 
 
To each their own at the end of the day.

It's ironic coming from someone who has a custom built watercooling where water could spill on your hardware and destroy everything seeing that, as you say "accidents happen all the time".

GTXJackBauer
Nice temps but I think it's too risky.

Better everyone who want lower temperatures to invest in Hybrid Kit than to experiment with Liquid Metal.
Temperatures best than any triple fan card and all heat go out of case, that's everything what gamers need.
 

I might try this on the GPU if I ever need to remove the card (water loop) for whatever reason just for fun.

So black duct tape around the die is safe? I have a new roll I bought 2 months ago. Heh.. expensive strong stuff.

The 2080ti ftw3 card is around 38-39c on load with the hydro copper block.. prob drop to under 34c I'm guessing.

AHowes
I might try this on the GPU if I ever need to remove the card (water loop) for whatever reason just for fun.

So black duct tape around the die is safe? I have a new roll I bought 2 months ago. Heh.. expensive strong stuff.

The 2080ti ftw3 card is around 38-39c on load with the hydro copper block.. prob drop to under 34c I'm guessing.

Before you try make sure that your GPU block is not made of aluminum, as it reacts with LM. Most today's gpu waterblocks are made of nickel plated copper which is perfectly fine.
 
Also when using LM you never press the syringe directly over where you want to apply it. You press it as slowly as possible over a towel then when a tiny drop appears you move it on the die. This is because sometimes the tip of the syringe get solid and if you press too much you get this:
 

 
The most important thing when using LM is to use the right quantity to avoid any leak from the gpu die. So you apply only the utmost minimum possible amount of LM on the die to begin with (the tiniest drop of LM you can get from the syringe) then you spread it as much as you can to cover all the gpu's die. The goal is to have the minimum LM used to cover the whole die.
Then once all the die is covered, add a very small drop of LM in the center of the die that will ensure there is enough LM everywhere to get a good contact with the block.
 
If you do this there is no way LM will leak outside the GPU die because there are not enough quantity of LM for leaking to happen. But to add extra safety you can indeed use any non conductive isolating material like black duck tape. Just make sure that it doesn't react to LM before using it and use it the closest as possible to the gpu die so if some get spilled, it wont get below the tape.
 
I personally hand cut black tape so it would fit perfectly between the gpu die and the gpu frame so it doesn't add a layer of thickness that could mess with the waterblock fitting (as you can see in my above pictures).
 
The sure thing is that the more rad surface you have on your watercooling, the more temp drop you'll get from this. And since you seem to have a large rad surface, you should get a nice result from it :)

Neutro

AHowes
I might try this on the GPU if I ever need to remove the card (water loop) for whatever reason just for fun.

So black duct tape around the die is safe? I have a new roll I bought 2 months ago. Heh.. expensive strong stuff.

The 2080ti ftw3 card is around 38-39c on load with the hydro copper block.. prob drop to under 34c I'm guessing.

Before you try make sure that your GPU block is not made of aluminum, as it reacts with LM. Most today's gpu waterblocks are made of nickel plated copper which is perfectly fine.
 
Also when using LM you never press the syringe directly over where you want to apply it. You press it as slowly as possible over a towel then when a tiny drop appears you move it on the die. This is because sometimes the tip of the syringe get solid and if you press too much you get this:
 

 
The most important thing when using LM is to use the right quantity to avoid any leak from the gpu die. So you apply only the utmost minimum possible amount of LM on the die to begin with (the tiniest drop of LM you can get from the syringe) then you spread it as much as you can to cover all the gpu's die. The goal is to have the minimum LM used to cover the whole die.
Then once all the die is covered, add a very small drop of LM in the center of the die that will ensure there is enough LM everywhere to get a good contact with the block.
 
If you do this there is no way LM will leak outside the GPU die because there are not enough quantity of LM for leaking to happen. But to add extra safety you can indeed use any non conductive isolating material like black duck tape. Just make sure that it doesn't react to LM before using it and use it the closest as possible to the gpu die so if some get spilled, it wont get below the tape.
 
I personally hand cut black tape so it would fit perfectly between the gpu die and the gpu frame so it doesn't add a layer of thickness that could mess with the waterblock fitting (as you can see in my above pictures).
 
The sure thing is that the more rad surface you have on your watercooling, the more temp drop you'll get from this. And since you seem to have a large rad surface, you should get a nice result from it :)

Awesome post! Wish I would of seen that before I did my CPU! Great tips.

The quantity of liquid metal applied, in the pic above, seems to be a bit too much.
From all the videos I've seen, all it takes is a very thin layer, without any bubbles.
 
Wow, this thread started June 26 2017!!!

GTXJackBauer

albiss
 
Wow, this thread started June 26 2017!!!

That is so risky and I wouldn't try this with liquid metal on GPU!!
 
But When you have remove heatsink from GPU card something you can see print mark on heatsink from GPU chipset this because they both touch each and spread out the thermal pasta so I have try use 4 x M2.5 fabric washers gap between card to heatsink with fours holes where between card and heatsink together it made about 0.2 mm gap gave me plenty more thermal grizzly!
 It help drop about 10c.
Test play Metro Exodus with DX12 Graphic set high, OC GPU 2114mhz 5500mhz temp at 72c ish was before 80c ish no add voltage need!!
It good enough rather use liquid Metal more risk.... 

C00LM4N
Finally EVGA replaced this faulty card
I stated that liqiud metal is not related to the problem and that EVGA service engineers would be able to easily check it and then RMA was approved.
Though the card I received is not like new. I see noticeable amounts of dust on the thermal pads corners.

As the Terms state, warranty replacements are Not new  https://www.evga.com/warranty/graphics-cards/
 
(excerpt) 
"Products sent in for RMA will be repaired and returned or replaced with a thoroughly tested recertified product of equal or greater performance."


Did you expect your 1.5 yr old GPU to be replaced with a new product, that is no longer being manufactured ?