Thanks Kmoore.  I suppose this just helps to ebb the "too much voltage is making my pins overheat issue" as that is not that much more wattage to supply. 

kmconstable

Thanks Kmoore.  I suppose this just helps to ebb the "too much voltage is making my pins overheat issue" as that is not that much more wattage to supply. 

WTH? No, that is false as is the number 60W number above.  Man...seriously guys you need to know what you are talking about before you draw conclusions.
 
The amount of power "available" to be pulled through a wire is dependent on the voltage and amperage on that rail.  If there was a single +12V rail with a single wire and it had a rating of 100A, that means that you can theoretically pull 1200W through a single wire only.  Whether the wire can take that or not is dependent on the gauge of the wire, or in simpler terms its amperage rating.  If the wire is rated for 100A then it can deliver full 1200W of power.  If it is rated for 30A but you try to pull 50A through it it will burn.  There is no "cap" on how much you can pull through a wire other than its physical characteristics which if exceeded mean that the wire will burn up.
 
Further to this, voltage is not what causes things to burn up, it's the resulting current.  If you have too much voltage or too little voltage you push through too much current which causes heat to build up and eventually burn stuff.
 
What is it that you are even trying to get to the bottom of?  I do not understand at all
 
@donta1979 and rest - ATI58XX+ cards can cause the pins to burn up as well.  It is not just GTX400 series cards that are the problem.  It is any multi-GPU setup that is HD4890 or better (excluding low end HD5XXX cards) or GTX400 series (470 and 480 parts only).  How many cards of each you need to be at higher risk is not really known.  My connector burnt up with two overclocked HD5850 cards.

dejanh

WTH? No, that is false as is the number 60W number above.  Man...seriously guys you need to know what you are talking about before you draw conclusions.

While I will agree with you that the gage of a wire is not an indication of the power draw, I do think it is important to remember that the person who designed this Modification, was a member of the EVGA PCB design team at the time, and states in his post http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226942 "When making the Classified I did take precaution to increase trace thickness" and as a profesional,I would expect him to follow the American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load ...  Which lists the accaptable draw from a 18 gage wire, at aprox 2.3 watts, also that the circuit incoperates two +12V wires.  Also the link in my previous post lists the limit for the paticular molex plug. So if you assume that a profesional engeneer, is a profesional, and chose a plug, withen a industrey standard, for an anticipated load of no more than the circuit could carry, than 5 amps would be the uper limit , also if you assume that 12 times 5 is 60, than you could resonabley expect the draw ( from the MOD ) to be no more than 60 watts as Ohms law tells us that Voltage times amps is = to watts.  ( and that the total could be no more than 75+60 from the slot, , + 75 W from the 6 pin, and 150W from the 6+2 for a total of aprox 360 Watts , ( with Mod, about 300 without ) ;However I have found a link listing the cards total draw at 480 Watts , listed previousley, Post # 732 http://tech.icrontic.com/news/nvidia-geforce-gtx-400-series-official-today/ ;Although assuming is not necessarly a good thing, I personaly feel like it's a safe bet in this situation. But it is exactley these inconsistencies, that I am expecting EVGA to clarify,
so when you ask "What is it that you are even trying to get to the bottom of? " my answer would have to be the truth. ( specs ) , {capabilities, and operational peramaters, } or whatever it is you want to call it.

The System fans, Pumps, Lighting, even ram cooling I have is drawn off the 2nd PSU.  The Antec TPQ 1200 OC I have set 12.26v drops to 12.19 under heavy 3D load.  I have a external usb connectors on my Dell 2048 WFP attached to MB, a Pioneer Blu-ray/DVD+R, 2x Corsair Extreme 120gb SSD's, 2x750gb WD Hd's, 1x 500GB HD WD.  I have 12gb ram installed and stable with a CPU daily oc of 4.2+.  The 769 board is a HC cooled board.  I added a WB to WC the Mofset setup.  When I built it I really tried to keep anything attached to the board to a minimum.  I may have to tear down my system and do the mod for Peace of mind but using a Infrared temp camera under load I am not seeing any temperatures over an extended period of time ( 3+ hours ) on the 24pin connector.  Idle load temp is 28C under load max temp read was 34C.  Maybe I am lucky, maybe I am just dodging a bullet that may come later.  Perhaps the MM case I have and the rad setup I have draws plenty of  air from inside the case it keeps everything relatively cool.  Trying to make this build last till next Chipset release.  The Classy 3 is tempting for a fix, but if they offered a stepup from my current HC to a classy 3 HC version i'd do it in a heartbeat.  I'd even pay some extra to trade up to a HC version of the Classy 3.  Was why I paid extra for the Limited run on the HC boards as they were in house tested which gave some peace of mind then.   I will likely get a temperature probe and mod my case to see a digital reading it puts out to monitor the connectors temperature to catch it before it causes a meltdown.  I knew I was getting close to the end life of the board sofar as Tech goes but it has been an outstanding board for my needs.

davekozy

KMoore - The spec for 18AWG is 2.3 amps at 120V. At 12V it will be 23 amps.
Here's one that melted from only two 5770's. I don't see how they could pull too much power. I think a loose connector, bad card, or failing PSU is the cause in some of these cases.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651336

Did you read the whole thread?  Gautam chimed in and his conclusion is that it could very well be that his PSU was inadequate and that is why this happened to that guy there specifically.  TPQ-850 is not a very good PSU and especially not very good for newer hardware.

I've been following this thread since it started.  Its been my main reason that I haven't taken a liking to the 759/760.  Any why I will stay away from it. 
With all my intentions of folding only it concerns me that this has become a pretty big issue.  I have read several threads/posts in regards to this and I truly hope that EVGA comes up with answer to all of our questions.
 
Thanks
 
Z3r0

well for those of us still under warranty what do we do .

I was not trying to mislead or misinform anyone as I am no expert on wattage and current at all.  I really was just trying to understand in simple simple terms how the mod actually helps.  I don't understand how only 60 Watts would make any significant difference if my cards were pulling say 150W too much via the 24 pin.

Very interesting thread. Quick question though...
 
I always thought the molex connection was for extremely high OCs, or TRI/Quad SLI. I'm thinking about moving to SLI 470s soon and I plan on OCing. Would it be a good idea to use the extra molex connection on my board, or would that somehow provide too much power? I'm having trouble determining where to draw the line on when to plug in the extra molex connector...
 
I know my board is a P55 FTW 200, and not listed on the front page, but I'd assume that no matter the platform, the same amount of power can go through the 24 pin connector. Right?

Nahte27

Very interesting thread. Quick question though...

I always thought the molex connection was for extremely high OCs, or TRI/Quad SLI. I'm thinking about moving to SLI 470s soon and I plan on OCing. Would it be a good idea to use the extra molex connection on my board, or would that somehow provide too much power? I'm having trouble determining where to draw the line on when to plug in the extra molex connector...

I know my board is a P55 FTW 200, and not listed on the front page, but I'd assume that no matter the platform, the same amount of power can go through the 24 pin connector. Right?

The molex connector won't give you any issues.  I'd plug it in.  Hell I'm using it for my one GTX 480.  Might as well!  You're correct a 24-pin connector is a 24-pin connector.  The amount of power going through it depends on the parts on the motherboard.

Keep in mind that Molex is just the name of a manufacturer of a specific type of plug, and the additional Molex plugs for the CPU have nothing to do with the Molex, plug mentioned for the Mod, PCIe, or for those on a Hard drive, or disk drive. In fact I would be willing to bet there are 12-15 Molex plugs in your system, whither there is one for the PCIe or not.   

My 3rd PSU (Corsair) died on me. I've been using a 480 from a friend with a physx card and I overclocked my CPU even higher. After I did that my memory was not showing full 6gb and recently my PSU died on me :( Does this happen because of this problem?

What else do you have on the curcuit, a 1200W PSU pulls less than 11 amps at full bore, ( 1200/110=10.9 Amps.) most homes have at least a 15 Amp Breaker, Many a 20 Amp, I've seen dedicated lines at 30 Amps, Trust me, If I can run a 680 with a 8800, a 920 with a 4.0 Oc, and 2(295) folding SMP, a 965 with a 4.0 OC, and a 260, folding SMP, hooked to a LG HDTV, all off of one breaker, than you can run one system with 2 460's . ( about 600 Watts recomended by nvidia 610 actualy, for this system ) .
 
Word of warning , however, I did find out last year that sometimes they wire adjasant rooms sometimes on the same breaker, Last year I had a strange issue with computer random shutdowns, turned out the window AC unit in the next room was on the same circuit, systems would shut down any time the Compressor would kick on, ( and it only took 3 weeks , to figure that out. )

KMoore4318

What else do you have on the curcuit, a 1200W PSU pulls less than 11 amps at full bore, ( 1200/110=10.9 Amps.) most homes have at least a 15 Amp Breaker, Many a 20 Amp, I've seen dedicated lines at 30 Amps, Trust me, If I can run a 680 with a 8800, a 920 with a 4.0 Oc, and 2(295) folding SMP, a 965 with a 4.0 OC, and a 260, folding SMP, hooked to a LG HDTV, all off of one breaker, than you can run one system with 2 460's . ( about 600 Watts recomended by nvidia 610 actualy, for this system ) .

Word of warning , however, I did find out last year that sometimes they wire adjasant rooms sometimes on the same breaker, Last year I had a strange issue with computer random shutdowns, turned out the window AC unit in the next room was on the same circuit, systems would shut down any time the Compressor would kick on, ( and it only took 3 weeks , to figure that out. )

Beyond the PC just my router, cable modem, speakers and 21" LCD monitor.  Being the upstairs there are two breakers, one for the room the PC is in and an adjacent room (nothing in there but a bed and dresser but setup as you assumed), and my master on its own.  Knowing this I will be watching what I put in the spare room down the road...no heavy power consumption...PC first, whoever ends up in there second .  Because they're upstairs the breakers, by code, are different than the remainder of the house and I had odd issues when the PC (both old and new) were in the master where I would be at work and the breaker would randomly trip with nothing being on but the router and cable modem.  I ran the system balls out just over an hour ago while someone measured usage @ the breaker box and there's no way I'm overloading the circuit, I'm right aroud where you thought and it looks to be a 20A breaker.
 
When I have more time, seeing as this only happened once, I'm going to look around for replacements for the box since these seem to be hyper-sensitive and I see no reason for them to trip.  Mind you the light in the room does dim when I power on the PC but no more so than when you turn on a vaccuum so not overly concerned about that.  I'll keep an eye on it, board looks fine (pulled the power source when I got home) and I'll write it off as "one time occurrence see if it implodes again".  If it keeps up I'll re-route the stove to the office...that should solve all the problems (kidding...kidding!)

Trentelshark

KMoore4318

What else do you have on the curcuit, a 1200W PSU pulls less than 11 amps at full bore, ( 1200/110=10.9 Amps.) most homes have at least a 15 Amp Breaker, Many a 20 Amp, I've seen dedicated lines at 30 Amps, Trust me, If I can run a 680 with a 8800, a 920 with a 4.0 Oc, and 2(295) folding SMP, a 965 with a 4.0 OC, and a 260, folding SMP, hooked to a LG HDTV, all off of one breaker, than you can run one system with 2 460's . ( about 600 Watts recomended by nvidia 610 actualy, for this system ) .

Word of warning , however, I did find out last year that sometimes they wire adjasant rooms sometimes on the same breaker, Last year I had a strange issue with computer random shutdowns, turned out the window AC unit in the next room was on the same circuit, systems would shut down any time the Compressor would kick on, ( and it only took 3 weeks , to figure that out. )

Beyond the PC just my router, cable modem, speakers and 21" LCD monitor.  Being the upstairs there are two breakers, one for the room the PC is in and an adjacent room (nothing in there but a bed and dresser but setup as you assumed), and my master on its own.  Knowing this I will be watching what I put in the spare room down the road...no heavy power consumption...PC first, whoever ends up in there second .  Because they're upstairs the breakers, by code, are different than the remainder of the house and I had odd issues when the PC (both old and new) were in the master where I would be at work and the breaker would randomly trip with nothing being on but the router and cable modem.  I ran the system balls out just over an hour ago while someone measured usage @ the breaker box and there's no way I'm overloading the circuit, I'm right aroud where you thought and it looks to be a 20A breaker.

When I have more time, seeing as this only happened once, I'm going to look around for replacements for the box since these seem to be hyper-sensitive and I see no reason for them to trip.  Mind you the light in the room does dim when I power on the PC but no more so than when you turn on a vaccuum so not overly concerned about that.  I'll keep an eye on it, board looks fine (pulled the power source when I got home) and I'll write it off as "one time occurrence see if it implodes again".  If it keeps up I'll re-route the stove to the office...that should solve all the problems (kidding...kidding!)

 
I was an electrician for 25 years
 
If your lights are dimming when you turn on the computer... There is something else (you dont know about) on the same breaker or a bad splice/connection somewhere with a loose netural leg (if the lights are dimming (then come on bright) on other circuits in your house when you turn stuff on, have an electrician check the main wire on the Netural buss for tightness.)
Also--> In the Main panel, verifiy that the wire coming off the 20a breaker for you room is AWG 12 and that it is the only wire coming from that breaker and that the entire distance from that breaker to your room is under 250ft.