Hi,
 
I got a private PM for support on this, thanks. I just got the EVGA SC17 1070 model yesterday and I love this machine, it's so well built, EXCELLENT work EVGA!!
 
I don't like Windows 10, and luckily there are drivers for Windows 7 which I plan install with a dual boot once I replace the 1TB HDD with an SSD.
 
I checked out the Dell 240W PSU, but they use 19.5V (seems like a lot of Dell's use 19.5V), this uses 19V, so that wouldn't work well longevity wise, so hopefully I wont have a PSU issue.
 
Pros:
1. SOLID BUILD! It's a work of subtle art!
2. Excellent components and specs that live up to their rated performance.
3. Beautiful 4K screen (for an AG panel)!!
4. Audio sounds great.
5. Intel Ethernet/Wifi! Too many issues with Killer.
 
My only cons are:
1. Touch pad (but the included mouse is very nice!)
2. BGA CPU/GPU. However, that doesn't matter to me too much, as I will probably get a 6-8 core in 6 years to replace this, which this MB chipset wouldn't support anyway.
 
Other:
1. Wish we had a glossy display option; maybe even a glossy base with an optional AG overlay for the glossy panel?
2. Wish the KB keys were slightly hollowed.
3. Sorry, but the spec sticker is a bit gaudy :(
4. Wish the Ethernet/HDMI/Power ports were in the back, it's better for me practically and aesthetically.
5. Would be nice if the power button showed the state of the laptop (off/sleep/on)
 

Hi xvga1,
 
They wrote that I should  contact support. Searching online about this issue, there is a reddit on this, here's the snippet:
[] 40 points 25 days ago 
We did have an issue with some earlier power supplies, but this has since been corrected. If you do have problems with the power supply for the laptop, contact us at or by phone at 888-881-3842 and we should be able to assist.
 
Now this is not a guarantee years later to get a new PSU esp. if the psu goes out of production, and since the PSU for this model at 19V @ 12.6A is unique to this model, if worse comes to worse, you could buy a high powered 19V lower amped model, but you'd have to underclock the CPU and GPU so it wouldn't draw more than the amps rated on the psu. You could have more amps (you just don't want higher/lower voltage, you want matching voltage), as it will draw the set voltage at whatever amperage it needs, but I haven't seen anything at 19V with that amperage or higher.
 
Hope that helps.

rjohnson11
PSU reliability among all major PSU manufacturers have gone up quite a bit. This is why you'll see 5 to 10 year warranties as standard on most PSUs.
 
When buying a PSU make sure you have a little too much power than not enough.
 

Thanks, but this is for a power brick, not a desktop PSU, and since it's a new power brick design, I'm sure there were design changes over the standard blocky brick that had to occur possibly resulting in a flawed original design OR faulty parts in the original batch of bricks (which I hope is the latter case here.) The concern I have about a little too much power is fine on the amps, but I don't think so for voltage. You want a very close matching voltage, with not more than a 3% deviance...you also ideally want the rated or higher amperage, but in case if you find a 19V power brick with lower amperage, you'll have to make sure you underclock the cpu and/or gpu. Higher amperage bricks are fine, it'll draw whatever amps of the rated voltage output it needs and not more, but you don't want to under/over volt it.

vistarshook
I have the SC17 1080 and the PSU is 19.5V, since I wrote many times to support to get an extra one but they say it is not available for sale, I ordered a Dell 330W one, same voltage and polarity, but the plug has a center pin.....when it arrives I will see if it works.

You could be very lucky, esp. since you have a matching voltage, I forgot how the center pin works, but I think Dell uses it for identification. I think there's another thread on here about it. On the 1070 version, it's 19V @ 12.6A
 
If mine was also at 19.5V, I'd also buy the Dell Precision/Alienware 240W adapter. Honestly, there was no need for a special design for the power brick. I don't care how big / what size it is, just as long as it is built to last until I no longer need it and can donate it to someone else (laptop/brick) or recycle it after like 10-15 years (assuming, the laptop itself doesn't break down, caps/pcb,panel components, etc...) Again, my Dell M4400 is over 8 years old and works perfectly, I only upgraded the HDD to an SSD, and I really don't care about the power brick it came with as long as it works properly and it is.
 
Good luck!!

Hey xvga1,
 
You're welcome! I did my research too and still bought it hoping the power brick issue is resolved. If EVGA could work out a deal with their PSU vendor for a standard brick that similarly spec'd, I'd gladly pay for it knowing it will last with a tried-n-true design, or at the very least, point out where we could buy one on the market today that would work with this unit (the 19V brick, not the 19.5V brick, as the Dell would work well for that.) What if EVGA gets out of the Laptop market this year, and 2 years go by and bricks start failing? What do we do?
 
It STINKS that mine uses 19V and not 19.5V  -- if it was 19.5V, the Dell brick would be perfect at 19.5V / 16.92A. Can anyone with a 980M or 1080 version write back here what DC output Voltage your brick has?
 
I know vistarshook has 19.5V with his model: EVGA SC17 4K G-SYNC | i7-7820HQ | GTX 1080

Purchased SC17 gtx 980 version on special offer from Scan in the UK at start of december.

Power supply failed on the first day. Faint clicking and light pulsing.

Contacted evga support the same day and was told they would send a request to UK distributer to send me a new one.

Coming up on one month and still no charger.

Contacted EVGA who are apparently chasing it up.

That's a month I've not been able to use new laptop and now with the intel fiasco and possible performance hit I seriously regret buying it.

Guys, searching around with Google/Bing/Duckduckgo for maximum results, it looks like all laptop power adapters are not precisely providing the dc output voltage as stated. In the laptop, there are regulators that alter voltages incoming to spec and generally have a -/+5% tolerance, which 19.5 falls into....HOWEVER, big HOWEVER, the 19.5V adapter say from Dell, maybe providing in reality ~20V (allowing for the 5% upperbound deviance) which would exceed that for the 19V original. If worse comes to worse and we need a power adapter, it may work (assuming polarity and >= amps) to use the Dell power adapter...I would just use a multimeter to measure your existing adapter and the new adapter and see if it falls into that 5% range. The only thing I don't know if when under load, does the voltage pressure change slightly (higher/lower) from the adapter.
 
forums.anandtech.com/threads/safe-to-use-a-higher-voltage-amp-ac-adapter-on-notebook.128020/
 
Excerpt:
 

Originally posted by: MoMeanMugs
I guess I should explain a little further. That VR is going to be working harder dissipating heat.

No, certain types of electronics (linear regulators not present in this power supply stage(s)) would have higher heat but not in this situation.

Depending on what kind of safety factor was designed by the laptop manufacturer (he doesn't state which), that VR could be pumping out quite a bit of heat already. I'm not saying he's going to burn it up right away, but I've seen VR's speced for 15 V burn up at 13 V (on more than one occasion - supposed to be quality ones).

Certainly in different types of equipment with a different regulation type than seen in a notebook, a larger input voltage can exceed the thermal margins, as related to the amount of current the regulator is handling. It just isn't applicable in this case.

It should be noted that a voltage regulator is actually regulating current since it's a transistor. Now the stepdown transformer is going to be providing more current to the VR, and thus more heat.

With all due respect, you are thinking of a different circuit topology not applicable here. The laptop brick is a basic switching type that will actually be providing slightly less current at this barely higher voltage. At the laptop, on either a separate power regulation board or that circuit integral to the mainboard, there is switchign step down circuitry that has no significant difference in heat generation from this small difference in voltage, and will actually have slightly lower heat generation if anything due to shorter on-state. If there were a larger difference in voltage we might have concern about coming too near the ratings of some particularly susceptible (tantalum) capacitors, but this time the difference is so slight it's negligible. Plus, in the past few years manufacturers have started to shun tantalums in favor of other organic, MLC and other solid types - there may not be any tants in it at all.

I was never arguing that his battery or the motherboard itself would be damaged since it sits on the other side of the VR. However, I just don't like to risk things. We all know manufacturers cut corners to cut costs = cheap crap inside. I guess it all depends on how long he plans on using it. I'm not screaming impending doom, but rather issuing a word of caution.

From the details mentioned thus far there is no cause for concern. Edit: (Irrelevant content removed).

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In reply to the OP, so long as the replacement supply is of reasonable quality, meaning it is not some piece of junk more likely to fail (which we have no reason to believe, but there's a wide world full of all different quality goods out there) then it should work fine. The battery is not direct charged but rather through a regulation and control circuit. Someday your battery will die from aging as all do but it won't be from using an AC-DC supply that was 0.5V higher than the original, and as others mentioned the higher current rating is not only OK, it is often good to have a little more margin between the actual load and the peak rating of the supply, but for size and cost (profit) reasons the manufacturers only give you what you started with instead.