I thought and before that copper on K|NGP|N cards work very well.
I don't know... now when I have watercooling I can't risk any more with ASUS.
I heard on their forums that installation of waterblocks on their cards is not allowed just like that.
Depend from region and some other things... I don't want to think about such things in future and if someone thought that ASUS changed warranty politic for installation custom waterblock I would advice people to go on secure option if you have custom watercooling. 
 
Even my advice for RTX2080Ti only could be some of Hybrid models if gamers use with fabric cooler because temperatures are much better or again EVGA if they plan to use waterblock.
Now I'm not sure any more can I install full cover waterblock for Strix on Poseidon or not. Because I have 18 months warranty more.
 
 
You have SLI RTX2080Ti K|NGP|N???
You don't need to worry for 4K resolution. 
 

Vlada011
I thought and before that copper on K|NGP|N cards work very well.
I don't know... now when I have watercooling I can't risk any more with ASUS.
I heard on their forums that installation of waterblocks on their cards is not allowed just like that.
Depend from region and some other things... I don't want to think about such things in future and if someone thought that ASUS changed warranty politic for installation custom waterblock I would advice people to go on secure option if you have custom watercooling. 
 
Even my advice for RTX2080Ti only could be some of Hybrid models if gamers use with fabric cooler because temperatures are much better or again EVGA if they plan to use waterblock.
Now I'm not sure any more can I install full cover waterblock for Strix on Poseidon or not. Because I have 18 months warranty more.
 
 
You have SLI RTX2080Ti K|NGP|N???
You don't need to worry for 4K resolution. 
 

Yes i have SLI 2080ti K|NGP|n

HawkOculus
Another thread that makes me think my card’s cooler is defective or functioning poorly. I haven’t actually run any games or benchmarks with the fans on an aggressive curve but I will tonight. I swapped my radiators around and my temperatures were 10 C worse than when the card’s radiator is on intake. I was getting 65-68 C with a game running in the background. Something is either seriously wrong with my card or the airflow with intake in my case is considerably better for temperatures. I was seeing a huge delta (essentially 20 C) with my CPU radiator switched to the intake position.

I have both of my radiators at the very bottom of the case one on each side and have plenty of air flow.

I never use the custom fan curves, i just set the fans to whatever % in the settings. When gaming or benchmarking 100% and go. Everything else 60%. 

dwexpress

HawkOculus

dwexpress

HawkOculus
Another thread that makes me think my card’s cooler is defective or functioning poorly. I haven’t actually run any games or benchmarks with the fans on an aggressive curve but I will tonight. I swapped my radiators around and my temperatures were 10 C worse than when the card’s radiator is on intake. I was getting 65-68 C with a game running in the background. Something is either seriously wrong with my card or the airflow with intake in my case is considerably better for temperatures. I was seeing a huge delta (essentially 20 C) with my CPU radiator switched to the intake position.

I have both of my radiators at the very bottom of the case one on each side and have plenty of air flow.

Guess I just need to switch my radiator back to fresh front intake and get my fans running at higher RPM then. I hadn’t actually tried a custom fan curve through PX1 before I swapped the radiators. Stupid now that I think about it. Now I’m gonna have to spend another hour swapping fans around again. Fun times. At least this time I won’t mess around with the 3rd auxiliary fan or anything else as it doesn’t really make a difference.

Did you put the LN2 bios on your OC bios to utilize the higher rpm's for the vrm and radiator fans?

Nope. Don’t know how to do that. Me flashing a BIOS is a recipe for disaster, frankly.

HawkOculus

dwexpress

HawkOculus
Another thread that makes me think my card’s cooler is defective or functioning poorly. I haven’t actually run any games or benchmarks with the fans on an aggressive curve but I will tonight. I swapped my radiators around and my temperatures were 10 C worse than when the card’s radiator is on intake. I was getting 65-68 C with a game running in the background. Something is either seriously wrong with my card or the airflow with intake in my case is considerably better for temperatures. I was seeing a huge delta (essentially 20 C) with my CPU radiator switched to the intake position.

 
 
 
 
If cold air from room decrease temperatures of GPU for 10C than use intake configuration.
I don't believe how temperatures of so powerful GPU could be much below 60C. 
Even if temps are 62-63C that's great. But NF-A12x25 PWM are 20-25% better than default fans. 
After I hear noise of NF-A12x25 PWM I would keep fans in idle on 800 RPM and in games on 1700/2000 RPM.
 
Corsair Commander Pro could help a lot but I would install both 120mm fans on Y Spliter on 4pin fan header. Maybe than even set custom profile in BIOS.
30%-50C, than vertical line and 100% Fan Speed from 60C. With NF-A12x25 PWM such fan profile is completely acceptable and temps would not pass 60C in gaming. I'm sure. VRM fan 60-70%
But I talk about fabric clock, no reason to OC GPU with 1770MHz Boost clock and basic version is 1545MHz Boost.
 

post edited by Vlada011 - 2019/04/19 09:20:18

Cool GTX
I believe it is a Copper Color Aluminum heatsink

Copper as material is better for heat dissipation than aluminium.
 
This is EVGA advertising... 
The all-new 240 mm Hybrid Cooler comes with a new generation Asetek Gen 6 pump, three PWM cooling fans, a copper + modular VRM heatsink and a full copper direct die GPU cold plate for the lowest temps of any K|NGP|N card.
 
This is natural copper color... I believe that's pure copper, but I don't know.
 

 
 Hydro Copper waterblock...  LCD Sensor...
 

 

I also heard that it was copper-colored aluminum.  Can anyone from EVGA confirm one way or the other?
 
Copper has a higher thermal conductivity, and therefore is superior to aluminum in processor cooling. Copper is better at conducting heat than aluminum, but aluminum is able to radiate the heat into the air better than copper because of its lower density.

I don't like having my fan RPM-range tied to a bios but I ended up swapping the included EVGA branded fans for 4x Noctua NF-A12x25 FLX in push/pull and control them with my Aquaero controller. I never break past 45C under gaming loads anymore, even at a paltry 1100rpm fan speed which is basically silence with these fans. If I set a more aggressive fan profile that goes down to around 40-42C. These cards are super impressive right out the gate... wonder how much there is to be gained with the HC block; can't wait to find out... I think I'll go overboard with radiator surface area on the KPE loop. I'm easily stable at 2160mhz and haven't even bothered tweaking or pushing further yet as my bench scores are held back by my current CPU until my new build later this summer. I can see easily sailing past the 2.2ghz mark once I actually start tweaking voltages and have the KPE in an open-loop setting. It's safe to say this is easily the best 2080Ti on the market... I have had time with most of the others aside from the HOF, and the KPE absolutely destroys them. This is nice to see as it takes some sting off the price but I can't say I was expecting anything less to be honest... KPE's always deliver.
 
The VRM heatsinks are indeed copper-plated aluminum. This was stated a few times over the months leading up to release. Pure copper would have been preferable especially given the price, but the performance of what we got is just fine so it's not a big deal. I wonder how many microns thick the copper-plating is...?

AHowes

degenerate
I don't like having my fan RPM-range tied to a bios but I ended up swapping the included EVGA branded fans for 4x Noctua NF-A12x25 FLX in push/pull and control them with my Aquaero controller. I never break past 45C under gaming loads anymore, even at a paltry 1100rpm fan speed which is basically silence with these fans. If I set a more aggressive fan profile that goes down to around 40-42C. These cards are super impressive right out the gate... wonder how much there is to be gained with the HC block; can't wait to find out... I think I'll go overboard with radiator surface area on the KPE loop. I'm easily stable at 2160mhz and haven't even bothered tweaking or pushing further yet as my bench scores are held back by my current CPU until my new build later this summer. I can see easily sailing past the 2.2ghz mark once I actually start tweaking voltages and have the KPE in an open-loop setting. It's safe to say this is easily the best 2080Ti on the market... I have had time with most of the others aside from the HOF, and the KPE absolutely destroys them. This is nice to see as it takes some sting off the price but I can't say I was expecting anything less to be honest... KPE's always deliver.
 
The VRM heatsinks are indeed copper-plated aluminum. This was stated a few times over the months leading up to release. Pure copper would have been preferable especially given the price, but the performance of what we got is just fine so it's not a big deal. I wonder how many microns thick the copper-plating is...?

Wouldn't matter. Copper base aluminum fin would be best. Aluminum releases heat faster.

Yeah, something tells me it was done more for the aesthetic as I can't see a few microns of copper plating working any miracles in terms of cooling efficiency. Maybe they should have gone with some gold-plating instead, haha, now that would look bad-ass!

AHowes
I dont think they would use aluminum on the kingpin.. never have in the past.. I dont see why they would cheap out now at this price

Aluminium is not cheap. Cheap is China steel used for 90% of PC cases, that's cheap almost as plastic.
Only aluminium is not so good material for heat dissipation as copper.
 
Best material would be stainless steel case and copper for cooler.
But stainless steel is heavy and need expensive finishes plus to look nice because of that aluminium is second best for PC cases because it's light and nice on touch. But copper is better for heatsinks than aluminium. I don't know how much but it's better. 
 
I don't know why copper is problem to be used, because copper heatsinks are available for few dollars over internet. 
Different kind of copper heatsinks for all possible parts.
 
Copper have twice better thermal conductivity than aluminium, and aluminium twice as brass.
Copper 223
Aluminium 118
Brass 64
Steel 17