I'm going to try everything in this thread before I change the PSU to see if anything works when I get home later (I'm still going to put the new PSU in anyway lol) I will keep you guys informed.  thanks for all the help.

krane
Okay I have tried everything in this thread and was not able to fix it, although a couple of times I thought I had it, but I didn't.  Question,  Is the reset button on the board suppose to blink constantly? I never noticed it before, but then again I wasn't looking for it.  I guess you have to click on the pic for a video.
 

HD activity light.

 
You should have got the Evga 1300. You wouldn't have those problems.     ;)

Cool GTX
New PSU installed ?

Not yet, something came up so I will install on Saturday.

krane

XrayMan
 
You should have got the Evga 1300. You wouldn't have those problems.     ;)

According to the meter for my system EVGA recommends a 650w-750w so I bought the 1050w, But I get what your saying...MORE POWER...

I'M GIVIN' HER ALL SHE'S GOT, CAP'N!
 

gtxjackbauer

krane

XrayMan
 
You should have got the Evga 1300. You wouldn't have those problems.     ;)

According to the meter for my system EVGA recommends a 650w-750w so I bought the 1050w, But I get what your saying...MORE POWER...

I believe he's being sarcastic and if he isn't, dive in the deep end I'd tell him.   750w is about right.  850-1000 MAX.  Around 1000w and over is still complete overkill even if you're going for 2-way SLI. 3 way isn't even worth the scaling.  I went stupid mode and grabbed a 1200w a while back thinking I was going for 3-way but its always there just in case along with a pretty big custom water cooling loop.  I'm not even breaking 700w with 2 GPUs and a OC CPU while folding which is the biggest thing that stresses my rig at max.
 
I truly lose my mind when I hear someone tell me they grabbed a 1000w PSU with a GTX 460/760/960 equivalent GPU.  I know someone how has IRL with a i5 CPU and thinks he's on top of the mountain.  /wrists

I know he was being sarcastic that's why I said "MORE POWER"

Okay, I installed the 1050 PSU and now I am getting a C code and nothing else.  Please someone tell me I just forgot something.  I am on my 9 year old nieces x58 micro setup while I try to figure this out. 

Just a few things.
 
I am getting post code C and no POST
 
If the EVGA X99 motherboard boots to post code "C" and does not complete POST check your EPS connector.  This is typically caused by poor connection or no connection from PSU to the Motherboards EPS (CPU 8 pin) connection.
 
Verify that the EPS cable is plugged in, if it is, reseat the cable.  If the PSU is modular, ensure it is plugged into the correct port on the PSU and that the connection is secure.
 
 
What is 'C' POST code?
 
'C' POST code basically indicates that the board is not POSTing at all or even initializing to read the CPU. This is slightly similar to an 'FF' code on previous generations. This can generally indicate a few different things, but usually means CPU not detected / not receiving power.
 
Check 24-pin and CPU 8-pin power connections to ensure these are firmly seated. (make sure you are using the CPU 8-pin or 4+4pin power and not a PCI-E 6+2 pin).

I'm going to try to reset the CPU, it may have been jostled around when I was re=routing the cables.

Cool GTX
Test run on a non-conductive surface -- outside of the case

I am going to do that now.  I hooked up the old PSU and then I got a code 68, now I get a 35. Sooo I am going to take everything out and starting all over.
 
edit: I reset the CPU with new thermal grease.

krane
Okay here is an update, I started to tear it all down when I said to myself "Self, try another "C" drive (Crucial Ballistix Sport ssd) so I put a WD Velociraptor in, popped a Win7 disk in and now everything is loading up and seems to be working.  Now here is another problem, not only did I lose everything on my 'C' drive I t appears I am back to Win7.  Am I able to get Win10 again or will I have to pay for it? Well for now I will see how the downloads go to make sure that really was the problem.  Thanks all, let's hope this is it.

If you've updated to Win 10s from that Win 7 and you never reversed the process, you should be able to upgrade to 10 for free or just use a fresh install of Win 10 with the CD key that was used to upgrade to it.

If after trying the suggestions do not work, you may want to consider this: There is a known issue between Windows 10 and various hardware where PCs go through the shutdown process correctly, but then restart as if the user were to push the power button on a cold system. The incidents are mostly with the Win10 upgrade from 7 or 8, but can occur with a clean install of a full retail version (more rare).
As recently as July 2016 (at Microsoft Support Site), there is no concrete solution as it appears no one knows a single reason it happens in order to issue a fix for the problem. A stop-gap measure is to create a shortcut to shutdown the computer on the desktop. This bypasses the Windows button shutdown sequence and shuts the PC down.
 
This is a stretch, but...
 
IF the "shutdown thing" was the original problem (it can start out of the blue), messing with power cycling, pulling plugs, re-plugging and such it is *possible* that damage to SSD could have occurred. This in turn can give the impression it was a drive gone bad.

Questors
If after trying the suggestions do not work, you may want to consider this: There is a known issue between Windows 10 and various hardware where PCs go through the shutdown process correctly, but then restart as if the user were to push the power button on a cold system. The incidents are mostly with the Win10 upgrade from 7 or 8, but can occur with a clean install of a full retail version (more rare).
As recently as July 2016 (at Microsoft Support Site), there is no concrete solution as it appears no one knows a single reason it happens in order to issue a fix for the problem. A stop-gap measure is to create a shortcut to shutdown the computer on the desktop. This bypasses the Windows button shutdown sequence and shuts the PC down.
 
This is a stretch, but...
 
IF the "shutdown thing" was the original problem (it can start out of the blue), messing with power cycling, pulling plugs, re-plugging and such it is *possible* that damage to SSD could have occurred. This in turn can give the impression it was a drive gone bad.

 The restarts have stopped,  they stopped with the old PSU but that was when I replaced the HD. Now I cannot say for certain that with all the nonsense I didn't cause the HD failure.  I now have the new PSU installed and no restarts........so far.