I'll be playing with mine today, with both the Classified tool and EVBot for nostalgia. 😁

When i was playing with my easter candies...
I got my Port Royal benchmark up to 9450.
http://www.3dmark.com/pr/76956
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

jab383
richiec77:  "Yup! Un-check Auto. Apply your settings and restart. Soft reboots hold the values. This's in reference to the Classified Tool which isn't a part of AB or PX1"
 
When using AB (and perhaps they will put the K-Boost function in PX1) with locked voltage/clock combo and fulltime P0, leave Auto checked in Classified.  That leaves AB in control of GPU core voltage.  Classified can still be used for memory voltage, Pex voltage and droop control.  Soft reboot after voltage is set is still needed for memory timing.

I was using AB to hold the V/F point at 1.093v and applying up to 1.1435-1.15v NVVDD. LLC5. 1.485v memory.

Using the Curve editor: was able to set around 2235-2250 for TimeSpy. And had a full Firestrike run at 2280MHz. Garage temps were at 46F so the AIO was able to hold temps around 32-36C during runs. I was able to get GT1 to pass once at 2310!!! But not a full run. 2295 didn't make as it crashed at Combined. Fooking crazy for a card to nearly hit 2.3GHz core not using ice bucket, chiller, DICE.

Real monitored voltage with a Fluke 187: 1.15v applied in tool measures 1.138v Idle (P0-Max Performance set). TimeSpy GT1 would drag voltage down to 1.052-1.078v under load. FS same starting point, would sag to 1.087-1.101v.

Have an ICON Pot in hand.....so tempted to pick up some DICE and see what the card can manage with the stock LN2 BIOS......but I think I'll wait for Vince to release the real XOC BIOS to see what it can do.

Air Gas can get bent....$2.50 a liter for LN2...plus 10.25% tax. $2.76. Yeah no.

Can someone give me a rundown of the values in the Classified tool? Is it even worth it to try and fiddle with these for gaming performance? I assume no.
I've had to back my memory down from +1000 to +900 to get general stability in games. Not really that big of a deal but I was curious if using the Classified tool would even make any difference. 

One issue with Classified for daily or gaming use is that Classified doesn't save profiles.  Anything set by Classified that can't be set by another tool will have to be inserted manually at every boot.
 
Droop and core voltage can be set to some extent by switches on the back of the board.  I don't know of any tool other than Classified that can set Droop, so that may be a good use of the switches if needed for a profile.

bcavnaugh

jab383
One issue with Classified for daily or gaming use is that Classified doesn't save profiles.  Anything set by Classified that can't be set by another tool will have to be inserted manually at every boot.
 
Droop and core voltage can be set to some extent by switches on the back of the board.  I don't know of any tool other than Classified that can set Droop, so that may be a good use of the switches if needed for a profile.

I think that is a good thing, you really should only be using the Classified Tool for Benchmarking and Not for Every Day Use and Not for Gaming.
Use PX1 for Every Day Use and Gaming.
For Anti PX1 Users  that use MSI Afterburner just note that the OLED will not work using MSI Afterburner.

But my OLED works perfectly fine when using Afterburner? I can just set the OLED settings separately. I still have a bug that doesn’t display the correct clocks under load but other than that mine works fine with Afterburner. Live temperature readings are accurate between the two as well.

Other than GPU/MEM frequency, FPS counter and GPU utilization - OLED values are acquired by KPE's onboard hardware. Once you configured settings in PX1, then card will refresh settings on it's own. But it rely on software to tell clocks, FPS and utilization, as these values need to read from the NV driver.
 

Pump RPM showing 0.

Checking this one. Can you check that both FAN headers on the radiator well connected. Try to reconnect them perhaps? Pump RPM is little misleading, as this value is for radiator fan's speed, not the pump itself. If there is no connection / signal from fan tachometer - this value will be reported 0.
 
I have added OLED LN2 kit installation steps in the guide. This accessory will be available separately for KPE owners, to allow OLED usage without stock hybrid cooler cover.
 

Naming will be improved for next release version :)

Can anyone give an idea of what would be safe voltages for benchmarking on stock cooler/ambient? I bumped up to 1.175/1.45 the other day and was able to get a little bit higher clocks (from 2145 to 2160 on core) and the temps were still in the low to mid 50s on the GPU. I did one run at 1.2 but clocks wasn't able to push any higher than 2160 so I called it a night. I'd like to try to hit 2200 but don't wanna push too hard. 

On the stock cooler at regular ambient temps I just leave the voltage on auto. I've managed 2230 so far and 16,100 mem. The real issue isn't the lack of voltage, but rather the temps. The cooler the GPU is the higher it'll clock due to GPU boost. At one point I simply used one of the +25mv switches on the back of the card to provide a little more headroom.

polishsweed
On the stock cooler at regular ambient temps I just leave the voltage on auto. I've managed 2230 so far and 16,100 mem. The real issue isn't the lack of voltage, but rather the temps. The cooler the GPU is the higher it'll clock due to GPU boost. At one point I simply used one of the +25mv switches on the back of the card to provide a little more headroom.

Holy crap! Silicon lottery winner right there. Highest I've been able to get on stock voltages is 2130 to 2145 and 16,400 mem on port royal. With fans maxed out on stock voltages it's not even hitting 50 I don't think so I think it's definitely the voltages holding me back. 

tresnugget

polishsweed
On the stock cooler at regular ambient temps I just leave the voltage on auto. I've managed 2230 so far and 16,100 mem. The real issue isn't the lack of voltage, but rather the temps. The cooler the GPU is the higher it'll clock due to GPU boost. At one point I simply used one of the +25mv switches on the back of the card to provide a little more headroom.

Holy crap! Silicon lottery winner right there. Highest I've been able to get on stock voltages is 2130 to 2145 and 16,400 mem on port royal. With fans maxed out on stock voltages it's not even hitting 50 I don't think so I think it's definitely the voltages holding me back. 

Sounds like your temps are causing GPU boost to step down your clocks. The only way I managed those clocks was to open up all the windows in my lab on a cool night few days ago. If I were to add more voltage then I'd just create more heat which would only cause my card to throttle. 

polishsweed

tresnugget

polishsweed
On the stock cooler at regular ambient temps I just leave the voltage on auto. I've managed 2230 so far and 16,100 mem. The real issue isn't the lack of voltage, but rather the temps. The cooler the GPU is the higher it'll clock due to GPU boost. At one point I simply used one of the +25mv switches on the back of the card to provide a little more headroom.

Holy crap! Silicon lottery winner right there. Highest I've been able to get on stock voltages is 2130 to 2145 and 16,400 mem on port royal. With fans maxed out on stock voltages it's not even hitting 50 I don't think so I think it's definitely the voltages holding me back. 

Sounds like your temps are causing GPU boost to step down your clocks. The only way I managed those clocks was to open up all the windows in my lab on a cool night few days ago. If I were to add more voltage then I'd just create more heat which would only cause my card to throttle. 

The reason I don't think it's temps is that I'm hitting 2160 to 2175 but then the driver crashes. It's boosting, it's just not stable. I would think temps in the 40s would be fine. I thought as long as they're sub 60 that it'll keep boosting but I'm probably wrong on that. With more voltage I could get 2160 stable but not higher. Although it's not like temps were getting scary when I was fiddling with voltages. They were still sub 60.

Question for everyone. What's your power draw at your highest stable overclocks? I'm drawing over 300w on my best runs which can spike as high as 340w. That's right at the limit for max TDP on the stock BIOS.

tresnugget

polishsweed
Question for everyone. What's your power draw at your highest stable overclocks? I'm drawing over 300w on my best runs which can spike as high as 340w. That's right at the limit for max TDP on the stock BIOS.

Regular gaming overclocking I never see past like 310. Serious benchmark overclocking  I'm thinking I'm around 340 but I can't say I've seen it higher although I've been paying more attention to the clocks. I assume these cards can push 520w out the box when set to 144% as 360*1.44=518.4

Was that measured from a Multimeter or the OLED?