Hi everyone, I'm new here. Just bought my first EVGA product, the EVGA RTX 2080 Super XC Hybrid, and can't wait to play with it.
 
In the future, if I plan to buy another card for SLI, would it be possible to get the EVGA RTX 2080 Super XC Gaming to run with the XC Hybrid in SLI configuration? To me, it looks like the XC Hybrid is the XC Gaming with the Hybrid shroud. Or is there distinct GPU BIOS difference preventing me from doing that? In that SLI config, both cards will have shroud removed and replaced with waterblock for custom loop.
 
Thank you for your advice!

Hi all,
 
I was about to post a new thread but recalled that I have started this post before. Fast forward to present day, I've had the 2080 Super XC Hybrid, did the magnet trick for a while for the whining pump, and finally slapped on a waterblock and put it in a custom loop.
 
Just pulled the trigger on a second identical waterblock for the next phase of the rig build. Now I'm looking at these cards:
EVGA 2080 Super XC Hybrid
EVGA 2080 Super XC Gaming
EVGA 2080 Super XC Ultra
NVIDIA 2080 Super FE
 
I believe previously we agreed that the first 2 cards are identical except for the cooler shroud. Any benefit to getting the 3rd card, the XC Ultra? I noticed an increase of boost clock by about 15MHz, and a thicker 3-slot plate+cooler.
 
I tried searching online on how SLI handles boost on cards, whether they are independent or do the boost for both cards go to the lowest denominator?
 
Are both cards running same PCB and VBIOS?
 
Does the XC Ultra get an uptick in boost clock just from plain cooling or is the PCB/ VBIOS design fundamentally different?
 
Sorry for so many questions. I'm not sure if I didn't win the silicon lottery but my 2080 Super XC Hybrid maxes out at 1.05V 2085MHz but quickly drops to 2055MHz in Time Spy despite stable 52C. I've been staring at that coveted 2100MHz that some have achieved and I now know I'll never get to unless there's a way for me to uncap that 1.05V. Just don't want the second card to make things worse.

Sajin, thank you for your answers.
 
The EVGA cards fluctuate for ~$40 from week to week on the various major online retailers so I'll be on the lookout for a good buying opportunity. I was considering B-stock as it comes up to about ~$100 savings (not accounting for MIR) but may just go ahead with a new card and 4-year warranty just for peace of mind. That's why I am buying EVGA's RTX anyway, as the quality is unparalleled.
 
I followed your guide exactly and now I'm able to tap that full 1.068V and card is locked 2100MHz @ 32C (before paying Boost 4.0 tax). NVIDIA's tax collector kicks me down to 2070MHz when at 52C during Time Spy. Afterburner's OSD is showing that I'm hitting power limit much more often than I'm hitting voltage limit, so I'm very happy because I've used up the watt-headroom per dollar I paid for this card.