Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was also in the situation that I wanted to clean the build up out of a EVGA Hydro Copper 2080 block. It is clear EVGA (or whatever 3rd party they commissioned) did not want or consider allowing users to disassemble and clean this block. It is doable however. Here is a brief outline:
- Remove the metal/aluminum by taking out the 7 screws. After removing the 7 screws, I used a small plastic prying tool near the top corner/angle near the 'mesh' since it is glued down slightly at that one spot, unsticking this part so it comes free is unavoidable. Gently release it with some care to avoid bending the metal piece, the metal cover hides the light strip and is cosmetic so keep it in good shape.
- Next remove the screws holding down the acrylic top cover (This is a tinted acrylic thin cover that spans the card, but has no other functional purpose other than to provide tint). NOTE: there is one screw under the badge at the lower right corner on the tented cover, you do not necessarily need to remove this screw, you can "swing" the acrylic cover away to expose the hex head screws that hold the clear acrylic block into the cold plate, it will be clear when you get to this point. You could also remove that badge (it is glued on) and take out that screw if you wish but I prefer to avoid prying off components that are glued on whenever possible, minimizes risk of damage or unsightly gouge marks.
- There are 5 screws holding down the light strip, remove the them and free the light strip (you may also optionally disconnect the light strip since has a plugged lead half way to the block, I left it attached). Make note of how the LED strip wire/cable is routed in the channel as it will make it easier to reassemble after the cleaning.
- Using a razor blade or plastic pry tool (I used a plastic pry tool) you need to remove the black EVGA Hydro Copper badge at the top of the terminal/port block that covers the screws which mount the port block. Again, I am not keen on removing things glued on, but this is unavoidable. This is a step where you do want to take some care not to scratch or chip the badge. You will also need to remove the top plastic PCB (it is a PCB that is used for lighting), both are glued/stuck down so again be gentle, the removal process should be such that enough glue/sticky stuff remains to remount them during reassembly.
- Remove the two screws that screw into the cold plate in the light channel as well.
- Remove the all Phillips screws and hex screws holding the clear acrylic block to the Ni coated copper cold plate, the cold plate will fall away once all the screws are out.
- Gently remove the o-ring and set aside.
- Clean the block as desired. I use warm water with a drop of dish soap and a dedicated toothbrush (soft bristle), followed by a little isopropyl alcohol through the channels, followed by a thorough rinse with water and then distilled water. I think will blow it dry with a hair dryer set on warm (not hot).
- Re-assemble in the reverse order, ensuring the gasket/o-ring is well seated. This is critical, pinching the o-ring will practically guarantee a leak and the o-ring will be permanently damaged. Also, when tightening the acrylic block back to the cold plate do not tighten down the screws full tight until you have also mount and screw in the port block on top. When tightening screws use a criss-cross pattern to ensure even compression of the o-ring.
- Leak check, (I used the air pressure, wait method).
EDIT: Corrected typos, added more detail.
post edited by JLArmstrong - 2022/08/30 14:56:33