I do have the 1200.  I have both.

the 1200 running everything except the 295 in slot 1.  That is for the 860W.  Just wondering if it would be worth while to "upgrade"  but loose 3 years of warranty. 

It would seem that the ABS "Dark Beret" series would not be in the same league as PC Power & Cooling PSU's... maybe the "Tagan" series... but I really love the old school single rail concept of the PC Power & Cooling.

Nate, stick with what you have,(PC Power&Cooling) If you do a little research, you will find that they give their specs. in a "real world" environment.Most test under really cold temps,which gives higher results, but Pc Power tests under normal power supply temps.Like anything else, outputs will drop under temp rise. Not with the PC Power unit. Your power supply gets HOT when you're loading it (benching) as i'm sure you already found out. Notice how high the fan on the power supply really speeds up while you are benching? In fact, my 1200 REALLY gets quite loud.      http://www.pcpower.com/technology/myths/#m2

PC Power & Cooling Single rail FTW!!!

Another to consider 1000w 12v one rail mean well psu has 83 amps on 12 v
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/se-1000-12.shtml

i know meanwell makes decent power supplies and at 210 dollars its not bad at all

OC333-  The ABS is also single rail... and more power, and more efficient, and modular

Sgtharry- The Power supply blows cold air out of it.  Heat is not an issue on my computer.  The "chiller" chiller goes through 2 triple rads and a double, which cools off the entire case like air conditioning.

I am going to be the devils advocate... the ABS says its 1100W continuous at 50°C. 

(none of the PC P&C sites work for some reason so you have to directly paste )

Hit a brick wall.  ugh.  I am beginning to think that my cards will not put out anymore.  I cant get them to finish a test now at the same clocks that got the 46K in the first place. 

Oh no! And you can't RMA them either, or you'd get Co-Ops. If I RMA my 295, I'd want to see if I could work it out with EVGA so that I get a Classified 285 instead of a Co-Op, with the difference in price($379 vs $530) in EVGA bucks added to my account.

just need to get back to basics again...when doing allot of changing...you generally have to start sort of over and change your voltage around. start lower and lower over clocks..sometimes the lowers give you better..then after a short break in period yet again...then you should be able to run your original config.

johnksss

just need to get back to basics again...when doing allot of changing...you generally have to start sort of over and change your voltage around. start lower and lower over clocks..sometimes the lowers give you better..then after a short break in period yet again...then you should be able to run your original config.

I Don't know why that is John?  But I think you're right...as unscientific as it sounds, it seems to be true.  You find you can't run anything, even though temps are lower than before...you start just toying around running low clocks, off the wall settings for a few days...then find you're working your way back up to your original settings and....now everything works again?!!!  Strange...