im kidding :P
 

hellshealer

ill give you 500 for it just to **** Q56 cos he is a traitor lmao

HAAA HAAAA!!!!!!
ZING!!!
Q is gonna feel my 295 ONE of these days. 
 
 

hellshealer

i need an amp for the speakers in my car, 75w per channel is enough, anyone know a good one?

75W RMS, or peak?
 

i want at least 75w RMS for my alpine type R 6.5 componets and 6x9 coaxils. the 6x9's are amazing haha this is all in a 93 barina btw lmao
 
i also have a Option audio 500w RMS DVC sub in the back, the gain is only @1/4 of 1 turn out of 3 and it is NUTS so load and extremely concussive because my car is a hatch.
 
just need an amp for the speakers so the sub doesnt drain everything out lmao

The bigger the amp the better.  This will give you cleaner input.  I have put 4000W to a single tweeter and it ran for a few minutes before it smoked.  point is you can put more power to a speaker as long as the input voltage is cleaner.  Cleaner waveforms come from higher wattage amps.  distortion (and square waves) are what kill speakers and sound like mud.

Just curious.. could anyone use a TEC and controller unit I pulled from a mini bar fridge? I had plans to experiment, but never have had the time. I think it's a 40 or 60 watt TEC, would have to double check... just thought someone here could have use for it?

I tried those fridges I have no love for those micro fridge things.  Give me freon and a compressor any day.  Good looking out and thinking of us over here for the TEC. 

nateman_doo

The bigger the amp the better.  This will give you cleaner input.  I have put 4000W to a single tweeter and it ran for a few minutes before it smoked.  point is you can put more power to a speaker as long as the input voltage is cleaner.  Cleaner waveforms come from higher wattage amps.  distortion (and square waves) are what kill speakers and sound like mud.

 
cool cool, i have thers speakers,
front : http://alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=224
Back : http://alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=228
the amp im looking at for speakers is http://alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=271
 
 
my sub is : http://www.optionaudio.com/subwoofers_OA12ST11BOX.php
and its powered by : http://www.optionaudio.com/amplifiers_OAK600.php.
 
the sub/amp my seem like crud but its PUMPS no complaints from it =D
 
and its all controlled with this head unit : http://www.pioneer.com.au/au/products/25/121/61/MVH-8350BT/index.html
 
and its all housed in this http://www.getprice.com.au/images/uploadimg/1261/13517496.jpg

I am no audiophile (anymore) but are you sure you want a class D amp for your interior speakers? 
 
Usually you want something like Class A (best quality-least efficient) Class B, or Class A/B (best bang for buck).  Class D is the worst quality (but most efficient).  Class D's are great for sub amps because you want tons of power (the great efficiency), and your only reproducing a limited bandwidth 20Hz-80/120 Hz, so your THD doesn't really matter (Total Harmonic Distortion) 

not 100% sure, this one was recommended from the guys here at the alpine reseller. his eyes lit up when i said i was putting Type R's in a old barina.
 
ill look into it some more :)
 
 
sctually looking into shows me that all alpine amps are Class D
 
hrmmmm
 

The Class D this is the first thing I noticed. 
 
I have some Type R 15's, dual 2 ohm coils.  They were fun, but they didn't hang too well when I competed with them.  Defiantly more for your average bass head, but not for competition. Now they just collect dust.