how long are those? and that looks like a good idea...because i would like longer screws as well, but dont want to be spinning nuts on and off for an hour...lol

the last set of runs i did, i just pj'd the complete socket and left the bracket exposed.. no rust and the block sat fine. and after i was done running dice, i just lifted the block off and set the SS evap on and started up the phase unit....then after doing that for a bit..lifted up the SS evap and set the stock heat sink in it's place for air.

all using the same backing plate & screws for the phase change.

looking good sniper!!
now you guys have me looking into getting a dewar..... just looking though..

I guess the idea is the longer screws would only go into the hold down bracket as long as needed and the springs would maintain tension on them. 

what i did was used the thicker screws from the SS
that meant i drilled my dice block screw plate the same size so i would not need to switch them out when going from air to SS to dice. but when going to air...it takes for ever to screw them down since the nut has to go down to the board. so putting springs and washers (the one inch washers you can get at home depot) would make a good combo. from a tightening point of view.

so you drilled and re-tapped to 8/32?  I think that is as large of a screw you can get through the mobo holes.

so you drilled and re-tapped to 8/32?  I think that is as large of a screw you can get through the mobo holes.

I dropped the eraser from the socket area too. Just running exposed bracket with vaseline.  I dropped it because I could not get my HK block to make contact with the cpu.  Even a hair of eraser was too thick.

nateman_doo

so you drilled and re-tapped to 8/32?  I think that is as large of a screw you can get through the mobo holes.

no retapping. just drilled it just enough for the screws to pass through. i drill out your tapping like a week later. i did not want to be turning the board over all the time. i just wanted to set the block on or pull it off. when i got my phase from shockthemonky, the screws we're a hair bigger. so i just drilled the holes to fit those screws. i use the ss backing plate because it's super thin and fits between 2 sheets of neoprene. so it no longer freezes up under dice. i have another one set up for a 775 board.

Q56_Monster

I dropped the eraser from the socket area too. Just running exposed bracket with vaseline.  I dropped it because I could not get my HK block to make contact with the cpu.  Even a hair of eraser was too thick.

exactly why i dropped it. my temps shot up and i was like..wth! so the eraser is on the MB and under the socket bracket. and i mean i just glazed on the pj then wiped it off the tcase and now i use silicone heat transfer compound. that stuff works pretty damn nice...a bit messy, but it takes quite a bit before it hardens..i can run dice and that stuff doesnt freeze solid as a rock. 
before

now

that whole socket is fully covered in pj. so no water and my block sits fine with out all the worry of having to re fit it 5 times, before im sure it's ready for benching.

johnksss

looking good sniper!!
now you guys have me looking into getting a dewar..... just looking though..

Oh come on johnksss you know you want to join the real GIC, the -190 club

voklskier4452

johnksss

looking good sniper!!
now you guys have me looking into getting a dewar..... just looking though..

Oh come on johnksss you know you want to join the real GIC, the -190 club

this is very true vok, but i need to make sure i have my board prep work down to a T...im only at -80 club now, but would surely like to get my -150 and higher club card.