Halo_003

EVGATech_DaveB
As someone who has only read about phase and has not used or built them before, why is 300W the cap.  Can you make a SS that is 400, 450, 600W or is that impractical for some reason?  Too much power draw or too physically large?

Well 300W is the load the phase is tested to cool. A higher load is possible but I think it would start to get very loud and very expensive quickly. A lot of SS units you see are mass produced with a 300W load. Custom ones yes you can get in the 450-500W range but it isn't cheap. At a certain point a single stage is no longer able to keep up which is why SS usually only cools to -40 to -50C on idle. They usually are tested to 300W load at -25C or so.
 
You can get a dual stage to cool 500W load at -75C, which would idle around -100 to -120C, but at that point you're talking massive power draw, extremely loud and power hungry, not to mention hella expensive. I'm not sure of if there's really a xxxW load limit that really can't be passed, just that usually units are built tested with a 300W load.

Thanks for the info, it is appreciated.  This is one area I really don't have a lot of experience in and I always want to learn more, hoping sometime I will be able to get into this as well, Hallowen style, as crazy as you can get with 24/7 stability.
 
When I start that I will be here bugging people about it, might try it with a delidded Devils Canyon or a X79 depending on how things go.
 
Still my favorite thread here.... like drag racing for computers!

Question, before I attempt anything.  Would adding in a cooper shim, 1.2mm thick, and using CLP for the IHS to Copper bond possibly provide more stable temperatures?  I am not sure if this temperature is actually low enough to to warrant the same as LN2, where the more copper the more stable the overall temps.
 
I also ran into an issue yesterday to where the system would start to boot, and then hang/restart/ and not post.  The phase change had built up condensation and the condensation had an effect on the socket area, so I pull the cooler off and put some shop towels around the edge.  The foam that I had used between the eraser and the cooler is thin and obviously isn't keep fluids out.  Should I pull everything apart, let it dry, and then use fingernail polish on everything to protect it from happening again?  I have no issue painting the entire board by any means. 

Scarlet-Tech
Question, before I attempt anything.  Would adding in a cooper shim, 1.2mm thick, and using CLP for the IHS to Copper bond possibly provide more stable temperatures?  I am not sure if this temperature is actually low enough to to warrant the same as LN2, where the more copper the more stable the overall temps.
 
I also ran into an issue yesterday to where the system would start to boot, and then hang/restart/ and not post.  The phase change had built up condensation and the condensation had an effect on the socket area, so I pull the cooler off and put some shop towels around the edge.  The foam that I had used between the eraser and the cooler is thin and obviously isn't keep fluids out.  Should I pull everything apart, let it dry, and then use fingernail polish on everything to protect it from happening again?  I have no issue painting the entire board by any means. 

 
Now I Know everyone won't agree with me on this subject, But Just as a personal suggestion........
 
Those condensation problems are Why I went back to using Petroleum Jelly Exclusively to condensate proof not only In/Around my CPU/Socket, But also the MB area around the Socket (and on the Back of the MB) before adding any layers of foam on my current ASUS X99 RVE Motherboard.
 
When I tried for the First (and Last) time to use Kneadable Eraser around the CPU Socket on my previous ASUS X79 RIV Motherboard using both Phase Change and DICE cooling, I had the same condensation/operational problems that you are describing, On top of the fact Both the INTEL CPU and the ASUS MB FAILED because of components shorting out (You may find Info about this in previous posts if you care to do some searching).
Luckily, Both INTEL and ASUS replaced them under Warranty and ever since that Bad Experience I have gone back to using Only Petroleum Jelly EVERYWHERE for my sub-zero builds.
 
Don't get me wrong......Lots of people use Kneadable Eraser with No Problems, But for whatever reason it Just Doesn't do the job for me and I personally find it a Pain to use.
 
 

I will do my best to make the move over to PJ around the socket and on the back when I tear everything down for maintenance the next time I do so. I will order everything I need ahead of time.

Scarlet-Tech
I will do my best to make the move over to PJ around the socket and on the back when I tear everything down for maintenance the next time I do so. I will order everything I need ahead of time.

 
Here's some Old Pics from some years ago of an EVGA X58 E759 sub-zero prep using Petroleum Jelly I found that may make things a little clearer on how I did it..........
 























 
 
 

Oh, that looks good! I will definitely make use of these when I tear it apart here soon.

WOW, I remember when you posted those forever ago, that was the old 2x295 build, I remember following this thread in 09.  It was when I got back into overclocking again after a LONG time out of the game.
 
I always was concerned about that much PJ in the socket could cause contact issues with the pins, but I guess not.
 
If you toast a board with that much prep on it, what do you do to get the 5 pounds of PJ back out of it?

EVGATech_DaveB
WOW, I remember when you posted those forever ago, that was the old 2x295 build, I remember following this thread in 09.  It was when I got back into overclocking again after a LONG time out of the game.
 
I always was concerned about that much PJ in the socket could cause contact issues with the pins, but I guess not.
 
If you toast a board with that much prep on it, what do you do to get the 5 pounds of PJ back out of it?

The Reason I use a Lot of Petroleum Jelly in the CPU Socket is because then you must use a hair dryer with just enough heat on a low/medium fan speed setting to cause the Petroleum Jelly in the Socket to "Flow" from in and around the CPU Socket onto the motherboard area over the tan masking tape (as shown in the pics).
 
After completing that and while the Jelly is still very warm, You install the already greased CPU (on the Bottom contact area), Lock it into place and immediately use the hair dryer again on the top of the CPU IHS for a few minutes until it gets Heated up Hot enough to ensure the bottom of the CPU Contacts and the Socket "Fingers" make good physical electrical contact and there is no air gaps left.
 
For removal, use a wooden popsicle stick to remove the majority of the PJ and then you can pull the tan tape/PJ off the MB (as shown in the pics) which leaves only the CPU Socket remaining filled/coated.
Go to Home Depot and purchase a few aerosol cans of electrical contact cleaner to blow/rinse the remaining PJ out of the CPU Socket, But FIRST With the MB upside down, Take the hair dryer again and heat up the PJ until it becomes "Fluid" again, The use the contact cleaner to flush out the Socket.
 
On the Back of the MB, Since there are no real delicate areas, You just heat the area with the hair dryer again and use the wooden popsicle stick to remove most of the PJ there followed by again using the aerosol contact cleaner to remove any remaining residue. 
 
It may sound like a mess, But I have been able to use this method on various Brands of MB's that either needed cleaned in preparation for Re-Sale or sometimes returned for RMA's/Warranties with NO DAMAGE to the MB Surface Coatings, Components, CPU Socket Fingers or Pins using this method since 2008.
 
 

If your SS is not insulated well near the head or the first 3 inches of tubing. It will defrost and leak water on your board every time you turn it off. Condensation happens if you let the head get around 0 celsius.
 
You can also make your setup a multi mount connection like mine.


I need to redo my ss head, but that shop towel cuts down allot on leaking water coming from the ice melting.

thats at least 5 years old.
 
you could always mount your board upside down, so the condensation drips away from the board when you turn it off ;)