Well, I just put the old card in and it looks like the BIOS versions are the same with the BIOS dumps being the exact same on the byte level too. A CS rep said they were told it was a hardware issue and not firmware.
I suspect the post earlier about hardware differences was so the tech could see if one of the power connectors had something wrong.
In any case, the Panasonic SP-caps on mine varied slightly. The old had 668QJ while the new has 66WQK. Not sure if that is pertinent, but it was a topic of discussion so I felt I should put it here anyway. Plus, the serial numbers only varied by the last 4 digits.
At this rate, I do not have much confidence in this new card. With the old one, it would crash on any of the last 3 driver versions from Nvidia. Someone else mentioned that theirs crashed suddenly after a month of no problems.
EVGA, we are paying a large chunk of money for this card. If this is the quality of the component we receive, I want to know why and what has been done to fix it. I don't want reassurances, I want facts. I talked to someone through the technical support and they said the Product Team assured the customer service reps that it has been fixed but were given no details. EVGA, your customer service reps need details because your customers need details.
To the customer service reps: I understand that you can only work with the information you are given. Thanks for being awesome. I'm happy to see that all the good things said about the customer service are true, as far as I can tell.
For anyone wanting to know about EVGA serial numbers, here's what I was told by a rep:
"The first two digits correlate to the year, so 16 being for 2016, the third digit designates the product type, 0 being power supply, 1 being graphics card, 2 being motherboard, etc. Then the 4th and 5th number designates the factory is was manufactured in, as far as I know. The 6th digit signifies the warranty length, this particular one being a 3, for 3 years, while 7,8,9 and 10 are the part number. The 11th digit is for the region it's sold in and the last 5 digits are simply the serial number sequence."
Knowing this, chances are good that if the last 5 digits of your serial number on your new card make a number larger than the last 5 on your old card, you have a card made later in production with the fixes.
I hope this helps.