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  • 1080/1070 Reference Hybrid AIO Kit Install Manual for P/N: 400-HY-5188-B1 (non-FTW) (p.3)
2016/07/21 20:24:50
UnderwaterSurfer
It is available on Amazon but not in stock, so I went ahead and ordered one for my EVGA GTX 1080 SC. I sure hope the backplate can be reinstalled, so thanks for sending the PM!
2016/07/21 21:40:17
Udo_G
yes, the backplate can be reinstalled!
2016/07/22 07:02:06
trilegdog
Thanks, Udo_G!  
 
EVGA Tech RayH responded.  From what he has seen, yes, reinstall.  Since that info was omitted from the install manual, he will be contacting the product guy/gal for a better detailed response.   I hope to get an additional picture loaded to cover the reinstall (likely just the reverse of step 1).
 
Update:  
 
The detailed response provided is that the Hybrid kit does work with those compatible 10 Series cards that come with a pre-installed backplate.
2016/07/22 19:08:00
UnderwaterSurfer
EVGA now has this kit available for purchase! 
 
 
2016/07/27 05:31:25
C_McButterpants
Well, I have received my Hybrid kit and installed it with tremendous results:
 
I went cheap on the stock MSI Aero 1070 blower at a mere £380; just wanting an interim card for next ~18 months.
I can't speak to the effectiveness of a Founder's edition blower performance, but this MSI design is very poor - it idles quietly enough, but the fan profile needs ramping right up the wazoo under load; and it still hits high 80°'s causing throttling.
 
*I need to point out that my case has very poor fan throughput (a low end Corsair 100r silent - 2×120mm intake/outtake fans on a triple speed header selector). This is why I've always stuck with blower cards; so the high GPU heat is better exhausted on long gaming sessions.
 
There's no backplate to the MSI Aero, and aside from a slightly different design steel end plate, everything attaches as intended. I was initially unable to install the radiator in my case because of the previously mentioned fan speed switch mounted at the back above the fan mount. doh! There's room for the fan - but the rad is somewhat taller. Removed switch and no problem. I did attach the EVGA fan to this switch (rather than direct through card) so I can run at lower revs. This makes practically inaudible.
 
Now, even with a fairly modest Overclock:

 
I'm seeing mid 30°'s idle and hovering just over 60° under 100% load.
 
So, is dropping an extra £120 on an (admittedly) low-end card some kind of tits-on-a-boar affair? Not at all!
On first power up I did think I'd made a terrible mistake... I was getting a crazy vibration from the case - turned out to be the water pipes pressing on the side door! Zip-tying the pipes up to the card keeps them out of the way nicely.
Now my cheap as chips reference PCB can run as intended; with a decent amount of OC headroom (for an 8-pin board).
 
I can now explore No Man's Sky stress free @60hz & 3440×1440 and leave properly investing in the Pascal architecture until it's matured a little more...
 
TL;DR
EVGA Hybrib AIO cooler compatible with MSI Aero reference PCB card.
Happy days. :D
2016/08/06 05:58:40
protestjay
Hi there, i just got one of these hybrid kits and was just wondering if it would be better applying my own thermal paste on to the dye rather than the pre applied stuff on the water block?
2016/08/06 08:37:09
UnderwaterSurfer
I would think it better to use the pre-applied paste. The one I have had the paste applied evenly all over the copper protrusion, and it is my understanding that it needs to cover the entire chip. The temperature reduction is fantastic, and it is soooo nice to have the heat blown outside the case, as the internal case temperature is very low now! You can use SpeedFan to control the speed of the radiator fan if you plug it into a motherboard fan header, even though it only has two wires. You won't see the rpm because it is DC controlled, but you will see the percentage. At least that is how it is on my computer. I have the fan at 20% at idle, and at 40C it starts to ramp up to the highest speed at 50% when under full load. I can't hear a thing at idle. 
2016/08/07 03:43:07
protestjay
UnderwaterSurfer
I would think it better to use the pre-applied paste. The one I have had the paste applied evenly all over the copper protrusion, and it is my understanding that it needs to cover the entire chip. The temperature reduction is fantastic, and it is soooo nice to have the heat blown outside the case, as the internal case temperature is very low now! You can use SpeedFan to control the speed of the radiator fan if you plug it into a motherboard fan header, even though it only has two wires. You won't see the rpm because it is DC controlled, but you will see the percentage. At least that is how it is on my computer. I have the fan at 20% at idle, and at 40C it starts to ramp up to the highest speed at 50% when under full load. I can't hear a thing at idle. 


Cheers man, I think I'll stick with pre applied stuff, like you said it would provide full coverage on the dye, and it would save time taking thermal paste off just to re-apply some more. Had another question though, I opened the box just to check everything, did your unit have the thermal pads pre-applied onto the Baseplate? I thought there would be some pre cut and just had to stick on. But there wasn't any in my box, the only thing I noticed were black pads attached to the Baseplate that line up with the vrms and that. Just want to make sure this is OK before I go a head?
2016/08/07 16:22:43
UnderwaterSurfer
After liquid cooling my EVGA GTX 1080 SC, I was able to get some very steady temps and overclocking. The attached image shows an MSI Afterburner graph after about 30 minutes of playing The Talos Principle, which I thought would communicate more than words.
 
 
 
 
2016/08/09 10:27:35
JD3206
Anyone going through the install for the first time, just know that they skip quite a bit of detail in the included instructions.
 
The biggest issue I had was getting the stock cooler off of my PNY 1080 FE and that was because they didn't mention two screws that were on the IO plate in the instructions.
 
There are two and they need to be removed to remove the stock cooler and leave it in 1 piece (between steps 3 and 4):

 
The other thing to mention is removing the screws (more like hex nuts?) that attach the cooler to board under the baseplate.  They also serve as the screw holes for the backplate and will need to be removed with a proper sized bit.  I was lucky enough to have a Kingston screw driver and the nuts were the same size as the bit holder for the screw driver bits.

Other than that, the install wasn't bad to do at all.  I went from the edge of thermal throttling (80 to 84 degrees after playing for a while) with epic settings in Ark: Survival Evolved at 3440 x 1440 to a max of 43 degrees (with an added overclock!) at the same settings.

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