The vrm is already actively cooled on any waterblock that is properly fitted. Adding a thermal pad on the back wouldnt hurt anything at all, but it wouldnt provide much, if any, better cooling for the card.

The entire section on the left of the picture (next to the three standoffs) cools the mosfets, which is what gets hot. You should have put a thermal strip on there as shown in step 4 per the installation instructions. Did you skip that step, or did you use a different block? If you did not follow the instructions, you should definitely break it down and apply the thermal pads as required by the install guide.



Install instructions

Scarlet-Tech
The vrm is already actively cooled on any waterblock that is properly fitted. Adding a thermal pad on the back wouldnt hurt anything at all, but it wouldnt provide much, if any, better cooling for the card.

The entire section on the left of the picture (next to the three standoffs) cools the mosfets, which is what gets hot. You should have put a thermal strip on there as shown in step 4 per the installation instructions. Did you skip that step, or did you use a different block? If you did not follow the instructions, you should definitely break it down and apply the thermal pads as required by the install guide.



Install instructions

Looking at the instructions again reminded me, yea, EK had two stripes of the horrible tasting grey chewing gum :P

I guess I'll stick with just the back and sneak my thermister in there (if possible).

aberdie
Did you notice any increase in boost clock with lower temps? If so, how much? thinking of throwing my 1080 under water

Dont have mine newest cards under water becaude it isnt full upgrade time yet, but do it. The cards run much more "stable" when it comes to dynamic clocks under water.