My final questions is just me asking, when will i be allowed to attach links in my threads or posts without them being deleted/flagged as spam(sorry if thats a total newb stickied FAQ).

z999z3mystorys
Well, I can answer the one regarding linking at least, there is a 50 post minimum for being able to post links that will work. You can however break the link in such a way that it won't work, but can still be followed if someone manually unbreaks the link and copies it to their URL bar. I'm not 100% sure if this is allowed, but as the intent is to prevent spam, rather than preventing links to legitimate information regarding say, a damaged card or whatever, I would assume it'd be OK.
 
As for the card, I'm not sure, you could try plugging in it by itself and see if that works, a system reboot isn't always a sign of an overheating card, often times if it happens under load it may be that it's not getting enough power, what PSU are you using to power the two GTX 780ties?
 
Water cooling I'm not very familiar with, so I'll leave that to someone else.

      Thanks for the reply, well the reason i think it was due to overheating was because if i remember correctly the PC shut down as if it blue screened but without any such scren, not file dump or anything, and rebooted, it then did the exact same thing again after it was almost past the windows logo booting into the full OS i believe.
The other reason for thinking thats the reason is that the solder on the corner of the GPU had started to spill out of the corner seam as did another card that is completely fried which when i asked about somewhere else and posted photos i was told that card was so fried it had become my new ornamental paperweight. It had the exact same corner leaking solder from under the GPU but it had actually spilled out by a metric ton by comparison. Not to mention it actually reached at least 3 of those capacitors ruining the card, that one wont even boot up without crashes and god knows what possible risk to the mobo id put it at.
 
      I was looking into the whole silly overflowing stuff people do to bad components i hope as a last ditch effort before throwing out the component or device. When i looked into that i noticed this thing called reballing which looked like just re doing the soldering joints on the underside of a processing chip or unit of any kind to allow it to complete its connections with either itself or the circuit board once reseated and heated back on as well.
I believe the reballing technique is just a more professional way of going about baking a component as to ensure it lasts longer before going bad once again like many did with the towel trick for the xbox 360s, or like some crazy people do by baking their graphics cards.
I could only see baking my completely ruined graphics card as making things worse and further spreading the leaked solder if not completely break the glue like seal around the gpu allowing it to just slide around freely until its cooled.

THanks but id rather not cheat the system and rather respect not being allowed to link stuff till im allowed theres no real need to but like i mentioned before all of the cards im talking about are evga GTX 780ti SC ACX edition cards which were made to fit a kraken g10 closed loop water cooling mount/adapter to allow for them to be compatible with the kraken x40 and x41 coolers. I modded the original ACX heatspreaders to fit with very high end 11w+ thermal conductivity pads/stickers of 1mm thickness alongside prolimatechs pk-3 thermal compound for the same level of thermal conductivity to be as specific as possible. I went overkill on cooling the vrm and vram since as far as i can see and everyone has told me theres no way without my laser thermometer to check the temps for that so i can only look at GPU temp, the original two 780s the ones that fried was due to the heatspreader either not being modded yet or just not having enough cut away causing uneven pressure allowing the first card to fry. The 2nd card which had some visible solder that leaked from the corner but didnt touch anything still booted up last i remember and so ive redone the heatspreader reapplied fresh thermal pads and paste and am using the kraken k40 on it and prepping a build to test it in since it sounds good to go from your responces.
 
My current card is a identical 780 with the same setup as the one i will be testing that had overheated and thus leaked a lil solder, and has had no problems but very high temps when under load due to not havin curt enough of the spreader away to make for the proper even contact between the kraken x40 and the gpu, that card however i will be attempting the xspc razor waterblock on with swiftechs cooling setup if no one thinks there is a good reason not to do so. The other card im running with that one right now is actually a kingpin 780ti classified card that i could easily fit either for the kraken g10, leave as is (the current plan) or attempt to include in the swiftech water cooling loop given i dont go over my shelfs weight limit for my new build its going in.
 
Sorry if any of that was confusing and sorry for the lack of grammar, im completely sleep deprived and need to be getting some sleep the next chance i get lol
 
Actually since you guys asked ill go ahead with it and include some butchered links so you can see how bad one of the cards turned out and ill look for the card that seems fine now when it had the solder still on it....
 
Found a public photo from my facebook blog album of PC work with the gpu that has solder melted all over 3-5+ capacitors its toast as far as i can tell and evga doesnt wanna repair it and nzxt doesnt wanna deal with it as far as i remember.... !www!facebook!com! /photo.php?fbid=10205299463943082&l=e43c1601ae