[Old Guide, see updated version] Make and sleeve your own extension cables!

great great guide, for those of us that are going to resleeve our own psu cables and not buy cable, can you suggest a kit that works the best for removing the connectors and such ?

Crys1s_Gam3r
My only gripe is in it's advantage -- it would be near impossible to remove the wire

Ha! Yes, the glue thing is a one-way ticket.  Stoopid customers!

What ratio heatshrink do you use?  It's looks like 2:1 to me.  Have you tried 3:1 and 4:1?  Have you ever tried other materials like Kynar or Fabric or Teflon?  I'm dying to try some Teflon (love the stuff), it's as tough as nails, but I heard it's hard to shrink right.

Have you worked with dual-wall stuff?  I've used it, and it's great, but maybe not for show pieces like this.  The adhesive can ooze out and look messy.  It's also much stiffer.  But you got mad skilz, so maybe you shrink it 'mo better.  I've had the adhesive form a nice looking bond to the sleeving.

Amazing, thank you!

I_Know_God

great great guide, for those of us that are going to resleeve our own psu cables and not buy cable, can you suggest a kit that works the best for removing the connectors and such ?

Thanks, I've found the "staple method" works best/most consistently on tough pins. Copied this from a post I made a while ago: Get two staples, then bend them so they form an "L". Insert the long end of the staple onto between the sides of the pins and the connector. Push them down far enough that they push the metal tabs in, then pull the cable out. Obviously easier said then done, so here's a quick illustration I made in Illustrator: 

If the wire won't come out by pulling it, and the staples are pushed all the way down, get a small jeweler's screwdriver and put it into the pin. Then grab it with some needlenose pliers and push it down.

Hope that helps

mcochris

Crys1s_Gam3r
My only gripe is in it's advantage -- it would be near impossible to remove the wire

Ha! Yes, the glue thing is a one-way ticket.  Stoopid customers!

What ratio heatshrink do you use?  It's looks like 2:1 to me.  Have you tried 3:1 and 4:1?  Have you ever tried other materials like Kynar or Fabric or Teflon?  I'm dying to try some Teflon (love the stuff), it's as tough as nails, but I heard it's hard to shrink right.

Have you worked with dual-wall stuff?  I've used it, and it's great, but maybe not for show pieces like this.  The adhesive can ooze out and look messy.  It's also much stiffer.  But you got mad skilz, so maybe you shrink it 'mo better.  I've had the adhesive form a nice looking bond to the sleeving.

The heatshrink I use is 4:1 actually . If you ever get your hands on any of the stuff you mentioned I'll might be interested in a small sample though. Haven't tried the adhesive lined/dual walled hs, IMO it would be too stiff and, again, a pain to remove. The stuff I use now is strong enough to hold the sleeve, but if I need to I can cut it off easily and frustration-free.

Nice chatting with you

zimbambadu

Amazing, thank you!

Glad you like it!

Also see: link  Two layers of heatshrink idea: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggOtcxb49Ik

I want to cable sleeve my Front Panel Cables, I was looking at probably 3/8" sleeving and heatshrink. Since the connectors are the same diameter as the wires, do I have to still remove them?

If you can get the sleeves and heat shrink over the connenctor, don't see a reason to remove them.  You may want to test the sleeve and heatshrink on a separate piece of similar cable/wire to make sure the heatshrink seals as tightly as you want.  Practice a few times before you work on the real cable.  Maybe even heatshrink over the connector too, if the added bulk doesn't block any other connectors.  What ratio heat shrink are you using?

I was going to use this stuff. If I want to sleeve my USB and Firewire cables, I'd probably use a 1/4" sleeving, right?

I'd buy a foot or two of each size and see what fits best, how it looks.  I like the smallest sleeve possible.  3/8" seems large for front panel cables, maybe 1/8" for single wires.  1/4" seems right for usb/fw may may not expand over the connectors.

I was planning, if I could, put all my front panel connectors (Pwr, reset, leds) into one sleeve.

WOW great guid, thanks for sharing.

HellFighter06
I was planning, if I could, put all my front panel connectors (Pwr, reset, leds) into one sleeve.

That sounds like a good idea.  Hope you can share some pics when it's done.

You may run into problems pulling the sleeve over the connectors.  The connectors can bunch up or twist or snag the interior of the sleeve.  If you can shove the connectors into a McDonalds straw (they seem largest), then you can push/pull the sleeve over the straw to avoid snagging the conns.  If the conns won't fit in the straw, you can use making tape to cover the conns.  This helps you use the smallest diameter sleeve possible.

Great job man!

Thanks for showing us how much effort this whole thing take.

Cheers!

IC

Crys1s_Gam3r thanks a million for this guide. I've been getting ready to make my own cables.

One question. I Googled for 18 AWG wire and ordered a 100 feet of it. No where does anything mention the thickness of the plastic around the wire. The stuff I order is like twice as thick as what was originally with the PSU. (The inner part is exactly the same thickness which I'm guessing is what the 18 AWG means) By the time I heat-shrink with 1/4 inch shrink it doesn't fit into the connector. Is there a way to tell how thick the wire is with its plastic coating? Something with a really thin out coating(I'm not sure of the proper term for this part of the wire) would probably be OK since it also has the sleaving to protect it.

I'm about to order another 100 foot spool. I'm thinking of going with 20 or 22 AWG wire this will be much more flexible and easier to work with IMO? Will this be OK for the 24 pin?  Or could that cause problems because I'm not using 18 AWG?



Thanks.

Insulation diameter is usually not specified unless you get it from a more "technical" vendor like DigiKey, Mouser, Allied, etc.

Thick insulation may mean cheap insulation.  If you can strip it with you thumbnail, or if it snags easily on a sharp edge, or you can compress it with your fingers, it's probably cheap low density PVC insulation.  And if the insulation is cheap, the conductor probably is too.  As you can imagine, there's good quality copper and bad quality copper.

Don't use a smaller gauge wire, this will increase the amount of wire resistance and reduce the amount of current the wire can carry.  Electrically, it's better to use the largest gauge wire possible.

Be very careful stripping wire that you don't nick the conductor.  A nicked conductor may break after being being bent a few times.  Use a good quality stripper with sharp blades.

One tip is to buy teflon insulated wire.  Teflon is very tough, a great insulator, and is usually thinner - less is needed because it's so effective.  In addition, the copper conductor is usually pretty high quality and silver plated.  On the downside, it costs more and is harder to strip, but IMO is worth it.

Teflon wire is very easy to find and comes in many colors and sizes. Lots of it on eBay and Google is your friend.

mcochris

HellFighter06
I was planning, if I could, put all my front panel connectors (Pwr, reset, leds) into one sleeve.

That sounds like a good idea.  Hope you can share some pics when it's done.

You may run into problems pulling the sleeve over the connectors.  The connectors can bunch up or twist or snag the interior of the sleeve.  If you can shove the connectors into a McDonalds straw (they seem largest), then you can push/pull the sleeve over the straw to avoid snagging the conns.  If the conns won't fit in the straw, you can use making tape to cover the conns.  This helps you use the smallest diameter sleeve possible.

Got it done the other day!





I got the USB and firewire cables into the green sleeve. But, it got so big, I couldn't get the heashrink over the sleeve. I just tucked the ends in and will keep an eye out for any fraying. The other black sleeve has the PWR, reset, ect., and everything worked out there.

thanks mco. I think I try this https://wesbellwireandcable.com/Teflon.html It says the diameter is 0.70 so that seems as about as thin as it gets for outer diameter (checking those other sites.) Are teflon usually stiffer than standard pvc?

Can you recommend a pair of quality strippers? The cheap $9 pair I purchased are do nick the conductor sometimes. I have to use the 16 AWG whole.

One more question. The braiding Crys1s_Gam3r is using...what type is that. The stuff I orded from performance pc(1/8th inch) isn't nearly as good looking. It doesn't have the tight triple thread per braid thing. Is that a certain brand or style I should look for?

http://www.murdermod.com/sleeving-kits.htm this is what he has used along with every other person on here. this is one of the best in the market as well i have a link to what i have done as well here: http://forums.evga.com/tm.aspx?&m=149287&mpage=8.  on post 229.


i hope that helps as well.

shuyananah
Are teflon usually stiffer than standard pvc?

Yes, somewhat stiffer,but not enough to cause any problems.  18ga seems thin.  If you can use 16, that would be better.

shuyananah
Can you recommend a pair of quality strippers? The cheap $9 pair I purchased are do nick the conductor sometimes. I have to use the 16 AWG whole.

I use scissor-type strippers manufactured by Ideal, they work fine.  Klein is also good.  These Stride are supposed to be good according to AnaLog, but I've never used them. I have not had luck with pull-type (aka "auto") strippers like link on teflon.  They are probably great on PVC.  They are kinda like pliers that grab the insulation and try to pull it off the wire.  You can't do that with Teflon, it's way too tough.

MCM Electronics is a good place to buy tools.

You need good hand and tool technique to not nick the wire.  Teflon is harder to strip because it's so strong, you have to cut thru more of the insualtion (touching the conductor with the tool is a no-no) before you can seperate it from the rest of the insulation.  Hold the tool perpendicular (90 degrees) to the wire.  It's ok to slowly spin the tool around the wire once or twice, but be careful not to let the blades contact the wire.  Don't "wag" or jerk the tool in an attempt to break off the insulation.  Try pushing to tool off the wire with the thumb that's holding the wire rather they pulling the tool off the wire with your tool-holding hand.  Practice a bunch of times.

Let us know how you like the Teflon!  Are you gonna solder the wire to the connectors?  That a whole other topic!

shuyananah
Is that a certain brand or style I should look for?

Try fiberglass sleeving link

Thanks for all the feedback. My plan has changed a bit. I just order a Seasonic x750 gold and $100 worth of mdpc-x sleeving. I may still need to make a longer 8 pin ATX cable but until I see how long the cables are that come with this thing I probably won't need to make any of my own cables.

I'll definitely be posting a work log. Gonna start with the Sleeving then do some mods to my Cosmos(probably powder coat, and wc setup) to get it ready for a EVGA (x58,480,i7 930) build in June/July.
 

Awesome guide!  I'm glad I belong to a community where you will show me how to do it or make one for me.  Awesome cables BTW!  Great workmanship, too!

Awesome as always!

Awesome Guide love the well taken Pictures, You Rock Crys1s that is gonna help me out a lot X58 built which is sitting in my closet all lonenly, is still on hold for the fact I can't buy the Cpu or memory Because of no Job but this is the intention I have sleeving most of the cables even building my case from scratch thanks for this BTW  I have you in my Contacts just in case. thnks A lot. Blue Ribbon 

btw this is a link that is all focused with sleeving. this explains how to do sata cables and others. mebbe u should check it out crysis!! *hint* sell sleeved sata cables *hint* lol
http://www.xtremesystems....howthread.php?t=202639

This talk of custom sleeving cables is intriguing me. Too bad the case I have picked out for my next rig won't have a side window else I would attempt this whole custom cable sleeving thing myself.

thats very nice sleeving . i might have to have you do my cables for my build im doing now .and your in rochester only 45 minutes away ! +1

eddy315west

thats very nice sleeving . i might have to have you do my cables for my build im doing now .and your in rochester only 45 minutes away ! +1

Ruh roh! This smells of stalking.

nice guide  I have enjoyed thanks alot

Crysis, can you offer a loadout (with links) of where you're getting your connectors, tools, and such? I know you've said before that you get your sleeving and heatshrink from MDPC, but where do you get the rest of your materials at? Thanks!

One of the best guides on the net!!!

Incredible tutorial/guide, thanks so much for your time and help in putting something like this together!

Would anyone be interested if I revamped this guide with new pics, links to my suggested places to purchase materials/tools, clearer format, etc.?

I may be able to find time to do so this week; but again, only if there is interest.

Please let me know,
Martin

Martin,

I love'd the first guide. It made me want to sleeve my rig so bad, but time and money have eluded me. Maybe a new guide would inspire me once again!

Nice tutorial. In the End I saw you put a big piece heat shrink around everything. Is that really necessarily?

great simple guide. i wonder how your hands look at the end of the day doing all that work?

i see this guide is for extensions....

would be the same process for the cables attached directly into the power supply?

Hi Martin, great tutorial, and yes i would like to see news pics and links to purchase the materials/tools PLEASE! :)
 
Thanks
 
Will
 

Crys1s_Gam3r

Would anyone be interested if I revamped this guide with new pics, links to my suggested places to purchase materials/tools, clearer format, etc.?

I may be able to find time to do so this week; but again, only if there is interest.

Please let me know,
Martin

I just bought a Corsair AX1200, and I really do not like the ribbon cables. I would like to make some round cables instead.

Can anyone link me to replacement connectors for the PSU mating ends?

Arctucas

I just bought a Corsair AX1200, and I really do not like the ribbon cables. I would like to make some round cables instead.

Can anyone link me to replacement connectors for the PSU mating ends?

Think they are just 6 pin connectors. See the following link and compare them to your cables (I don't have any cables with me right now.)
http://www.frozencpu.com/..._Connectors-Page1.html

Blizzie

Arctucas

I just bought a Corsair AX1200, and I really do not like the ribbon cables. I would like to make some round cables instead.

Can anyone link me to replacement connectors for the PSU mating ends?

Think they are just 6 pin connectors. See the following link and compare them to your cables (I don't have any cables with me right now.)
http://www.frozencpu.com/..._Connectors-Page1.html

From what I can ascertain looking at the images, the ones from FrozenCPU are keyed differently.

And, there are eight pin, a ten pin and a fourteen pin connector.



If anyone knows who the connector manufacturer is, and what they name the connector style, I might be able to search the manufacturers catalog?

EDIT:

I believe they are manufactured by Weli Sheng Terminal (WST) and are P#-I42002 series connectors.

Now, I need to find a retailer (U.S.A.), anyone?

Martin,  A video would be fantastic!

Martin, I curious to know how you get the heatshrinks on both ends to even up so nicely?

Arctucas

Blizzie

Arctucas

I just bought a Corsair AX1200, and I really do not like the ribbon cables. I would like to make some round cables instead.

Can anyone link me to replacement connectors for the PSU mating ends?

Think they are just 6 pin connectors. See the following link and compare them to your cables (I don't have any cables with me right now.)
http://www.frozencpu.com/..._Connectors-Page1.html

From what I can ascertain looking at the images, the ones from FrozenCPU are keyed differently.

And, there are eight pin, a ten pin and a fourteen pin connector.



If anyone knows who the connector manufacturer is, and what they name the connector style, I might be able to search the manufacturers catalog?

EDIT:

I believe they are manufactured by Weli Sheng Terminal (WST) and are P#-I42002 series connectors.

Now, I need to find a retailer (U.S.A.), anyone?

Ah.. looks like those are different. I know on my Corsair 850W, the PCI-E, molex, and SATA are just 6/8 pin PCI-E plugs.
 

 
Image Source: http://www.jonnyguru.com/...;op=Story&reid=153

Blizzie,
 
Yes, it appears Corsiar changed the connectors to ones that are unavailable (unless I want to buy a minimum of 1,000 from the manufacturer).
 
In fact, I find that most of the cables with my AX1200 are too short if I want to do good cable management and hide them in my Tt Xaser VI.
 
I emailed Corsair to see if I could get longer cables, but they said no, I should buy extensions.
 
 

Artucas, why not just make new cables but use the existing connectors? It will work fine.

Crys1s,
 
I would, except I might want to sell the unit someday, and I believe I would prefer to include the original cables, which would mean disassembling my custom cables and reassembling the OEM cables. That could be a major PITA!
 
Anyway, I (hopefully) may have a lead on obtaining the connectors.

Fair enough

Crys1s,
 
Thanks.
 
Great guide, by the way.
 
I am looking forward to your next installment.