Steph1

This is probably my last question and it's if it's really neccesary to run 3 things one every night for 3 nights and why I can't just run all 3 things one after the other in the same day? I was just wondering what would happen.

Of course you can. I'm just thinking you would rather be using the computer during the daytime, except for those periods you are taking care of your life. It just kind of sux when you suddenly want to get on the Internet for something, or play a game, but can't bc you are in the middle of an 8hr run of P95 or LinX. It's entirely up to you. When I say scheduling things like that, take it with a grain of salt, it's just a recommendation.
 
I use Arctic Silver 5, you see it in my sig below ("AS5"). It is not the very best benchmark-wise but the better stuff is either too expensive, can't find it, or too thick and hard to work with. And the difference is only like about one degree at full OC - not worth the trouble. AS5 is also easily removed when you change or rework your cooler, it doesn't require any special removal solvent if you have some rubbing alcohol that works fine. I just bought my second syringe of it a month ago - I used way too much the first couple of times or I would not have needed to buy another.
 
 
Now that I have discussed this, I need to tell you about application methods. DO NOT use the credit-card spread method it causes trapped air. Use the tiny pea or rice in the middle method, it's easier and works better. There is no need to cover the entire CPU surface with the stuff, the CPU die is just a small area in the middle, only the middle half counts. More copy-and-paste from my earlier posts:
 
Thermal transfer (TIM) compounds

Read this to see TIM performance differences, look at the A+ section on pg13 for the best:

BenchmarkReviews.com: 80-way Thermal Interface Material Performance Test


Vids on TIM application:

YouTube: How Thermal Compound Spreads


(And I recommend looking at some of those others too.)

"Also go to www.innovationcooling.com and check out their application page it has great instructions for the correct application." - Falcon_CMH


Example of bad credit-card TIM spread:
HOLY 920 EGG COOKING TEMPS BATMAN!

IC Diamond application instructions with discussion about air bubbles:
IC Diamond application instructions



TIM removal:
Remove all of your TIM first. Do it very carefully, and remove the heatsink carefully as a bit of it could fall into your CPU socket ('strings' of it). It really depends on what TIM you use as to how to remove. With AS5 you can use 70% rubbing alcohol like this:

Wipe off the excess first using cotton balls or Q-tips. Wipe toward the center of the CPU to avoid wiping it into your socket. Wipe the edges very carefully if there is excess hanging over. Then clean the excess off of the heatsink. Then pour a little alcohol into the cap, and dab the cotton ball into it, you only want several drops in the ball, you don't want the ball soaked. Wipe the ball over the CPU with the same action directed for removing the excess, be careful not to squeeze alcohol into your socket (it won't hurt it if you let it evaporate, providing you don't get TIM in there). When it looks clean you are done.

Let it evaporate before applying TIM. There are commercial TIM cleaners out there, you may need it for the thicker stuff like Ceramique. Good luck.

Just added pic of Windows settings described above at the bottom of my post.

Steph1

Ah ok thanks.
If I have to manually stop the LinX test because either the 6 numbers or the VREG gets to 90 or over, does that mean that I should then back the multi back down to a lower point?

Should I also back the multi down to a lower point if the LinX test comes across an error?

Yes and yes. But then report your results here and we can then discuss what you should do next.

Seventh LinX: [Multiplier at 32 X] Failed (BlueScreen Error)
I couldn't find that button on the Control Panel to not restart when I ran two Seventh LinX tests one after the other and both ended up restarting the Computer by itself during both Seventh LinX tests and then when the computer restarted, I logged in both times, and a Windows thing popped up saying the reason why it restarted and it said Blue Screen.
This is what that windows thing that popped said:
 
Problem signature:
  Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
  OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
  Locale ID: 1033
Additional information about the problem:
  BCCode: 1e
  BCP1: FFFFFFFFC0000005
  BCP2: FFFFF800030E9782
  BCP3: FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF
  BCP4: 0000000000000000
  OS Version: 6_1_7601
  Service Pack: 1_0
  Product: 768_1
Files that help describe the problem:
  C:\Windows\Minidump\070411-16161-01.dmp
  C:\Users\Steph\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-1134174-0.sysdata.xml
Read our privacy statement online:
  http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409
If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
  C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt
 
What I am really wondering is why did I receive this error if all my stats are way below 90C for the other 6 LinX tests. I do not understand that. I reverted back to 31 X from 32 X just now just to let you know btw.
 
Update: I found the option to tell the computer to not restart. I'm going to run the Seventh Linx on 32 X again and this time i'll post the information when the BlueScreen happens again so that I can show you the info. But I have to go to sleep right now so tomarrow i'll do it.

I came across one problem: When I woke up today I turned on the computer and it turned on. Then I went ahead and shut it down and it doesn't want to turn on anymore. When I click on the power button all of the lights flash on for 1-2 seconds and then turns off. :/

I never shutted down with the power switch or button. I always powered up with the computer restart or shut down options on the start menu. And I tryed what you told me to do with the 20 seconds thing and it still powers on for 1-2 seconds with all the lights turning on and off.

I would do those things if I was able to turn on the computer one day again :/

You say all the lights came on but it doesnt POST meaning you dont see your BIOS screen?  theres a LED on the bottom of your board right side there should be a number there.  If its not POSTing and theres a number thats your Error code open the motherboards manual to POST codes it will tell you whats wrong or atleast a general idea. Then we can work from there to find a resolution for you.

Crushed he is saying his fans and lights go back out, i.e. the mobo power goes back off.
 
Steph1, first as long as you have told me everything and was straight with me, you have not done anything to warrant this problem. Please don't feel that you did something wrong. However, OCing does stress the hardware more than typical use. I really think if you had a hardware failure it was inevitable anyway, OCing may have just caused it to happen a little sooner.
 
Second, try removing the CMOS battery for 20 minutes or more, then replace it, then do the CMOS reset button routine again (with power supplied), and try that. If it doesn't work, you need to try something more extreme (copy-and-pasted from previous post):
 
First, make sure there were no unused mobo standoffs behind your mobo. By that I mean no standoffs where there are not screw holes. They will short it out and could create any variety of problems.

Second, you need to do the standard "bare bones" boot test:
Remove mobo put on cardboard, disconnect everything except CPU, one stick of RAM, one GPU card, CPU fan, keyboard, 8-pin, and 24 pin power connector. Use this diagram provided by KMoore4318 to install your single RAM stick:



Use slot 1 in the diagram, reseat that stick too. Disconnect everything else from your PSU too. Don't even plug in the HDD. Use the onboard power button to try that, see how that works. As soon as you can get into the BIOS disable "P80 Show temp," you need to be sure your error code is really a boot code, not just CPU temp. It's under "Integrated Peripherals" --> "Onboard device." If the boot works, to something like "no boot disk," try attaching your HDD, mouse, and the rest of your RAM.

I opened up the Case and I did the paper clip test on the power supply 4 times and it failed all 3. Do you think it's the power supply?

No

Agreed, but go for a good brand like Antec or Corsair. GL.

Have you re-done all your BIOS OC settings to were you were bfr? Do that, then my
Post #40
above.

Well first you have to verify all your BIOS settings are just like your
Post #17
then set 31x. Then do my Post #40. No need to re-test if nothing has changed except your PSU.