Master Bios: 112% Power,  K-Boost On, Voltage boost 100%, Fan's 100%,  2076 Mhz Core, +800 Mhz Memory, stable on Catzilla 1080P,  Unigine Valley, and Time Spy,  Temps only 64-66 after hours of benchmark testing.  This was just an initial benchmark session. 
I will work on OC'ing the slave bios tonight; I've got a suspicion I may be able to hit 2100 Mhz Core and+900 Mhz Memory on it after the power boost unlock on the slave bios.  I'm sure the temps will suffer a bit though.
 
Just a side note... I am very pleased with how quiet the fans are on the 1070 FTW versus the 970 FTW+; I can actually game with fans set to 100% and not annoy my TeamSpeak/in-game voip...
The only gripe I have so far is the representation of "White" with the RGB LED's, it's more blue than white...  I'll have to work on getting the right color mix to get as close to white as possible.
 
 

right now with power target set to 104% im running a very slight but nice oc. +300 memory, + 50 core clock, with stock fan speed. on my i7 2600 (oc 4.37 ghz) system i went from firestike 14196 to 14520, and time spy 5417 to 5571. seem pretty stable an safe right now. 

i hit 2100mhz with 112% power, 72% voltage increase, 117mhz core bump, memory was +395. this card would go slightly over 2100 if i maxed voltage and who knows where if i went to bios2
 
turned in a great heaven score 

fans are at stock settings, temps were 73-75c during that test. 
 
running fallout 4 with those settings produces 65-67c
 
i have a 970ftw in my bedroom system and it does 14 something out of the box and i think it was 1560 with some boosting. never really tried to all out max that one

Thanks for the info m8! Im thinking about over clocking mine!

could someone post an image for his gtx 1070 ftw bios
 
INSTRUCTIONS
STEP 1: Download JoeDirt's latest NVFLASH (version 5.287). Extract it to C:\NVFLASH
http://www.overclock.net/...an-x/570#post_25209075
STEP 2: Open a command prompt as administrator. Change to your C: drive (type C: then enter). Then change to your NVFLASH folder (type CD \NVFLASH then enter).
STEP 3: Use NVFLASH to save the BIOS. type: NVFLASH --save GP104.rom

bissagars
could someone post an image for his gtx 1070 ftw bios
 

Download GPU-Z, click the little box on the right side that shows a file being extracted from a box, save bios.

bissagars
could someone post an image for his gtx 1070 ftw bios
 
INSTRUCTIONS
STEP 1: Download JoeDirt's latest NVFLASH (version 5.287). Extract it to C:\NVFLASH
STEP 2: Open a command prompt as administrator. Change to your C: drive (type C: then enter). Then change to your NVFLASH folder (type CD \NVFLASH then enter).
STEP 3: Use NVFLASH to save the BIOS. type: NVFLASH --save GP104.rom

Hi, I have a BIOS for you, if you still need it, post here your public email, so I can send it to you - I cannot use PM.
 
(thanks to Scarlet-Tech's advice)

Is it normal to not even be able to hit +100 on a FTW card?  I can go +75 core (are you limited to increase in steps of 25?  80-95 wouldn't register properly after initially looking like it accepted it), +600 memory so far using 120% power and 75% voltage .  My temps stay in the 50 C or so range and the fans never go above 50%, is there any reason to be running fans higher when my temperature never gets close to the 75+ C?  Since my temperature is relatively low, I doubt water cooling would help much other than cooling the VRM better.
 
So do the ACX 3.0 or ACX 3.0 SC versions have to do more than +100 core boost to achieve 2100 Mhz core?  The GPU boost stuffs makes it difficult to know if my card was of an value or if I should have saved the $10-30 for the the regular ACX 3.0 version or SC ;p.  Do the non-FTW ACX 3.0 versions only light up white?  At least I can make my card red!  

jrcbandit
Is it normal to not even be able to hit +100 on a FTW card?  I can go +75 core (are you limited to increase in steps of 25?  80-95 wouldn't register properly after initially looking like it accepted it)

The frequency is growing only by steps of 25MHz. So when you add +75MHz and 0% voltage, then when it's under approximately 58C, it will run on higher voltage to achieve full frequency offset set by 25MHz-steps. But when it runs hotter, then voltage is being lowered down for example from 1081mV to 1050mV and according to that decrease of voltage, the frequency is being pulled down by 12MHz steps. - the lower voltage means less frequency by 12MHz steps.
 
This means, that if you can add only +75MHz frequency to the core, then you can try to set fans to 100% (to see full potential) and set voltage to 100%. The maximal voltage value reached when set on full 100%, will be offset in a V-T (voltage temperature) graph. So under 58C, it should show the full potential of increased frequency.
 
- you don't have to be afraid to add voltage, because it will never exceed the limits of the card, so will never damage it. Standard voltage on low temperatures could be 1093mV and when the card gets hotter, it is lowering the voltage to help it cool down - more voltage means more heat - more heat means less time of functionality, but that's not anything to worry about, because it is designed to run for maybe 15 years, so on very high temperatures all the time, it will still run for over 8 years, I suppose..
 
Still, if you set fans to 100%, then it could run at 1081mV stable all the time, so you will have stable higher frequency and the card will be still running on low temperatures, so it shouldn't decrease the lifetime of the card. Remember that the lifetime of the card is linked to the heat and not the voltage applied !

Tomd4850

sportfan1969
Just a side note... I am very pleased with how quiet the fans are on the 1070 FTW versus the 970 FTW+; I can actually game with fans set to 100% and not annoy my TeamSpeak/in-game voip...
The only gripe I have so far is the representation of "White" with the RGB LED's, it's more blue than white...  I'll have to work on getting the right color mix to get as close to white as possible.
 
 

Yeah, it looks the same on the 1080. That's a problem that is inherent with using RGB LEDs to make white. It just takes one of the LEDs to be just slightly off from the optimal color temp and brightness to appear to have a color hue.
 
@axe41031 Do you have a 1070 now? Try using the OC scanner with Precision OCX. I got a few crashes with my 1080, but it gave me a good idea where to start with creating my own voltage curve.

 
noob question: where is the ocscanner button?

EVGA to differentiate could sell the 1070 FTW and Classified with bios with a little more tension, for we take advantage of all its power phases, all your overclocking potential, than use having 10 stages if the voltage is the same reference ? Overclock ridiculous for a card that promises better performance in overclocking, you can not release tension for bios why sell 10 power phases with a PCB and monstrous cooler? false marketing?

Yes has false marketing, since your card is not a reference product, but retain the same voltage settings of the reference product, it does not make sense any pay more for a product that should theoretically be better but in practice is the same thing .

I'm curious about what overclocks people have gotten with the power limit at default
 
How are some people actually adjusting the voltage on this card? I thought it was locked.

Podzimp

EtherealEye
I'm curious about what overclocks people have gotten with the power limit at default
 
How are some people actually adjusting the voltage on this card? I thought it was locked.

It depends on what bechmark or 3d app you are running... for example - on furmark, when set on 1600x900, no AA, it makes a lot of FPS, and it drains the power very much, so you hit the  100%, or even the 112% power limit. But when you set an AntiAliasing, then it makes less FPS, and drain much less power... in my case, with 8x AA, it drains about 60-80% power, so then you can have the power limit on 90% and it will not throttle down the frequency because of the power.. But when you add some clock frequency, the power consumption rises, but still, 100% target was enough to reach the frequency, where the card becomes unstable.
 
I found, that if I set temperature limit to 60C, then I can set a bigger offset for core and memory in some 3D applications.. I even hit a 2152MHz for a while, and if the temparature is below 60C, then the card is stable. When the temps hits the 60C, it lowers the clock frequency all the way down to 2088MHz, so thats the magic I guess... and in games, where there's not a very full load from time to time, then the temperature drops down and the frequency gets higher again.
 
 
-- but I'm having the most stable settings the same as @ have: +100MHz core and +400MHz on memory (core at 125MHz stable in most applications, but not all... and while testing 2152MHz, it was achieved with custom manual offset at 150MHz or 175MHz offset on 1081mV and 1093mV - the overvoltage has to be on 100% to achieve 1075mV or higher..)

Does the card actually lose stability when it exceeds 60 celcius or is it just a setting you prefer?
 
Unigen Heaven at full 1080p max settings with AA on and Vsync off, I would get some minor artifacts or some sort of odd texture renders when looking closely at 400+ on the memory. I forgot what I was doing on the core but I sure can't do +150 on Heaven staying on 100% power. Seems like you got a better card, although I am not sure if mine is below average or not. For the sake of testing mine and comparing it to everyone else I may have to just bump the power limit up.
 
I don't fully see the need to push the power limit up when the card can already conquer everything I could throw at it right now on my 1080p monitor. I wish nvidia or EVGA could give us vcore voltage control so I can just undervolt my card incrementally starting from the default settings so I can go for pure efficiency for now and just up everything down the road when I actually need it.