bill1024
Why not keep an eye out for a used  Kenne Bell 1.5?
People upgrade to the newer ones and sell their old ones. If staying at 5# boost a KB is another option.
If wanting to go 8# or more the KB may not be the best option for a 5.0, heat soak can be a problem they say.
But a KB twin screw gives you full boost and torque at 2500RPM or so.
 
I'll keep an eye out and let you know if I see anything.

I didn't know these existed. I will only ever run 5# of boost. Unless I win the lottery but that's another story.
 
Also, I don't want to mess with an intercooler. It's the main reason I want a vortech v1 so badly.

I second the Vortech, or Paxton as I am running a Paxton NOVI2200 on my Mustang.

PD blowers are nice, but you really need a strong bottom end for those.  Centri blowers tend to be a bit nicer to your engine.
 
6200.00 for the Coyote is about an average price.   Another swap that has been going into Foxes (mainly for the dragstrip) is the 6.2 out of the Raptor.  

I found 42lb bosh injectors along with a 90mm lighting MAF for 250$, worth it? The MAF is from a 4.6 though, can I convert it to work with the 5.0?

kaninja

Dukman
I second the Vortech, or Paxton as I am running a Paxton NOVI2200 on my Mustang.

PD blowers are nice, but you really need a strong bottom end for those.  Centri blowers tend to be a bit nicer to your engine.
 
6200.00 for the Coyote is about an average price.   Another swap that has been going into Foxes (mainly for the dragstrip) is the 6.2 out of the Raptor.  

Really, the 6.2? Interesting, that thing is a great engine for power potential and durability, but it is a boat anchor at near 600 lbs. The Coyote weighs a mere 430 lbs.

Now I want to see a 6.2L bored and stroked to 420 cu.in with twin turbos.....that would be a beast.

The few swaps that Ive seen have mostly been into dedicated drag cars.   The big advantage of the 6.2 is the gobs of torque it makes.  Combine that with the lightweight of the Fox platform and even in stock form the 6.2 can be nasty.   Also, the iron block 302 isn't exactly svelt.  It still comes in heavier than the Coyote.
 
One of the reasons why I abandoned the idea of using a 326 stroker in my car was the added weight over my modular.  I didn't want to go with the added weight of going back to a heavier block.  Im trying to lose weight with the car, not gain.  
 
Balto, like Bill1024 stated you'll need to tune for those  injectors.  Installing them while running a factory tune could end up with problems, most likely just poor performance and fuel economy.  But also possible fault codes as well.  Keep in mind that any change with air or fuel system will require tuning, as will certain exhaust mods. 

Hmm... Is it still worth it to get the MAF?

I don't care about keeping the inside of the engine stock. I have always wanted AFR heads. I think ill go this route instead of going blower. Later I'll go blower and get even more HP I guess.

Also remember, I'm keeping the car CA smog legal. So no crazy cams that wouldn't let me pass smog.

Hmm... I don't want to spend all the time pulling the engine, modding it and putting it back in, just to find out that it won't pass smog because of the cam.

Also, I will be pulling the engine for this. It's got a couple things I need to fix, like the leaky oil pan/rear main seal. I almost want to go buy another known good engine and mod that one, then when ready drop it in and do a swappy swappy so there is almost no down time.

Too bad the Coyote 5.0 couldn't just bolt to a FoxBox...

Wasn't the FoxBox analong throttle?

Awesome motor, but I would rather run the 2014 5.8.  Better performance and it's 30k cheaper.  Actually, if I were to spend up to 30k on a motor, I would just build the snot out a Coyote. 
 
While we don't have any Coyote swaps here (yet), we do have one guy that swapped all the important parts from a 2003 Termi into an 88 Fox.    So it has motor, trans, IRS, and interior swapped over.  

The Coyote swap might be the cheapest and easiest way to the 400hp mark in the long run.  Plus the motor will run a lot cleaner and pass emissions easier.

bill1024

Baltothewolf
I think ill just pass on the entire deal. I don't think I'll need 42# for H/C/I anyway. 24lb are cheaper, and more readily available, and will probably be good for my application.

Yeah for now, then you can sell them to get the 42# when you buy the blower.
You can always keep the 19# and do a FMU, just get an A/F ratio gauge.
 
Save your money, take your time, make a plan. Keep an eye out for parts.
You're not saving money buying parts twice. That is if you're going for 400HP 24# are not enough.
Pennywise pound foolish.
You can do 24# get the meter setup for 24# trick the ECU, the stock cam is really not all that bad.
You can always go 1.7RR to add a little lift.
Start with the heads and a adj, fuel regulator, bump the pressure a little and see where you're at.
There are ways to do it, but you have to know your A/F ratio and timing, no knocking or pinging.
 
But it's up to you. Maybe go to the corral.net and get advice there from a Mustang site where there are NMRA racers and several tuners there who been down the road your going. This stuff has been done a million times
We here are trying to point you in the right direction, HP is not cheap.
Call your local pick N pulls and see what they have.
Cast iron GT40 3bar heads are a dime a dozen and when ported and polished they can make over 300 whp.
 
Take your time and keep looking.
 
 

I completely agree. And thanks for the solid advice. I might as well take care of cosmetics like the drooping headliner, disgusting carpet and half peeling paint haha. I can spend little and make the car look half decent, then save for the big items.

No problem at all! This thread is a repair /rebuild thread, but who says it can't be a talk car thread too?

What year is it?

Just read through this thread and good to see a fellow fox body stang owner doing his car up. I have had 3 diff. fox bodys and sold 2 of them and just have my coupe with vortech etc on it. They are fun cars and can find tons of parts for them. I am on corral.net also and you can buy some good used parts over there.

Does he have a dyno sheet? If not I highly doubt a minimum 300rwhp. $2000 is steep.
Why not just yank and do a build up of your own block? You already have the block. Maybe get yourself a 331 cu.in. full stroker kit.