badlogin
Oh just a few things eh lol?

hey maintance sucks rusted lines can hurt you while driving stainless steel lines going in new seals and rubber bushings to replace worn out or cracked rotted ones.
I am just trying to be sure all is correct before I have on the road
I don't like to slap stick work on repair or parts period 
restomods are not cheap disc brake front and rear will come soon
 
 

I was asking because to save you money down the road. You could buy the disc master and use a perportioning valve. That way you wouldn't have to spend the money twice?

I was planning on the new master and prop valve in the kit when I go to disc

easy install no king pins

Nice job so far.
 
Just to clarify, toploader is just referencing the top of the case where the gears are installed from. People often confuse them meaning the shifter is located on top.
 
When you convert to discs are you doing both front and rear or just front? I'd like to know how labor intense the rear kit is.

Baltothewolf
What what? Did Ford not change the rear control arm design for almost 30 years? Your original control arms look exactly like the ones on a fox.

front end pics
 
here the rear end picture
 

front hubs and drums installed
left and right side
yes I paint the drums to prevent rust

springs and shocks installed
 
had to buy spacers for the compressor tool to keep the rod from threading all the way to bottom hitting spring seat on upper control arm
loaded guns be careful with compressing springs period 

inner and outer tie rods new sleeves and idler arm replaced and installed.
 
front brake lines installed the master cylinder is on my list sunday and gas line tank to pump 

DStith
Falcon with a different body style.  These things tend to rip the motor mounts right out of the chassis, even if it is an inline 6.  I had a guy the other day try to roll my stock GT with a '64 falcon and I left him 10 car lengths behind from a stop sign while his tires were spinning.  rofl.
 
I used to drive a '60s car as a DD.  Problem is, cars made in the 60s aren't very safe.  Though they are reliable.  I still have it but I just have it for show and short trips around town now.  I prefer the comfort and safety of a modern automobile (5 stars, DOT approved modern car with 5 star roll over rating too) for commute and trips over 20 miles.

I trust my car more than todays car and it is reliable being brought up to better than safe for it age so I don't see a problem with my motor mounts or brackets as I have.
I will be buying the kind that bolt on to the shock towers and are self adjusting soon just not now. how ever my drum brakes function just as good as modern day brakes even with dual reservoir
master cylinder , better than the single bowl it had.
nothing a roll cage cant fix yes they sell them for my car to install as added safety too.  also I am updating full suspension later down the line on rear and front to improve the handling
so please don't get off topic with my build ok I have my car to enjoy period I have full coverage with replacement on my car through my insurance company  
this isn't my first car and wont be my last it is a daily driver period
motor and maintenance is cheaper and easier than today modern rip off mechanic only cars(mom 2006 pt cruiser crap shoot).
besides I get the benefits of I don't use seat belts in the car http://www.nhtsa.gov/people/injury/enforce/PrimaryEnforcement/pages/AppC.htm section explains it nice to know this
 
I am fully aware were the 64 1/2-66 mustang has rust issues when looking at buying the classics , I do research first always , when this is done 1946 chevy style master will be on the next list to play with 6 cly 6 volt all steel 4 doors 3 on the tree.
reality is no car is safe period only good defense drivers that pay attention while driving
 

Don't underestimate Ford drum brakes. They were much more superior to GM's during this time. 

DenyGFX
Don't underestimate Ford drum brakes. They were much more superior to GM's during this time. 

 yes they work great

Your making a lot of progress it looks like. The receipt you posted showed $650 for the heads. Was that just a stock refresh and valve job? Seems quite high for that. Or was there some performance parts/work done?

old school oem rims yes all four 14 inch I have the oem hubcaps
dual res master cylinder

The problem with the early mustangs is they have zero weight in the back end. Makes them horrible in ice and winter snow. I've put my 66 1/2 convertible into the ditch 4 or 5 times since the 80's. Also it's like they made the body to rust all to hell. So much floorboard replacement in these cars. The beauty in these cars is they're built so simple that even I can rebuild one. The parts are readily available too.
 
Ford even sells full body kits for the early mustangs, so you can scratch build them with better more modern quality metal.
http://www.dynacornclassi...il_pdf/65MustCnvrt.pdf