ganzosrevenge
OK.
 
First thing's first, the little white spots that show up in Unigine Valley may be a byproduct of Unigine Valley / nVidia.  That's a very well-known issue that was outlined by JayzTwoCents in his video on BIOSHacking a GTX 780.  I believe it may have been fixed in the latest 344-series driver release.  So those aren't artifacts (artifacts sometimes look like crazy random polygons that pop up out of nowhere, more than they look like little white specks.... especially in Valley).  
 
Also, you are in the NORMAL bios (as shown by the 110% power max).  Put the switch to LN2 mode to get 5% more power availability (and a nice red light).  This BIOS is also the BIOS that you use - should you get brave - in flashing custom BIOSes on the GPU in order to completely unlock power limits (note: I do NOT condone this behavior, and I don't hold myself responsible if you create a very pretty brick by flashing the wrong BIOS).  Additionally, if you do unlock the power limit, a 750w PSU may not be enough to really let the Classified stretch its legs.  I myself have a Classy and I had an RM850, and I'm going to a Seasonic 1050 Platinum in order to allow the GPU to eat as much power as it needs.  
 
Lastly, it may just be that the GPU doesn't have "insane overclocking!" ability.  Mine only goes to 1098MHz Base / 1163MHz Boost, and max boost then becomes 1229MHz.  In light of people breaking 1300MHz on the core (on air) and seeing my relatively low limits, it just may be one of those cards.  If this is the case, then it's not a "bad" card in the sense of being defective, but it just doesn't handle OCs as well as its peers.  I had power at 1.26v, 150% Power Target, and it wouldn't even get to 1242MHz (the next stop up).  I stopped at that point because i didn't want to fry my PSU, my GPU, or my entire computer.  EVGA does have a "special BIOS" that they claim only works if you have an EVBot, but I noticed that my GPU is better behaved once I put it in (less idle temp, less load temps, etc.,).  I would contact ChrisB about it, and provide your Serial # for it.  
 
The classy is a wonderful card, OC'd or not OC'd.  Just because yours may not be one of those "epic monsters!", doesn't mean that what it does, it does better than almost any other 780 Ti out there (barring the KPE, a different animal in its own right).
 
Jason

ganzosrevenge

saifrehman23

ganzosrevenge
OK.
 
First thing's first, the little white spots that show up in Unigine Valley may be a byproduct of Unigine Valley / nVidia.  That's a very well-known issue that was outlined by JayzTwoCents in his video on BIOSHacking a GTX 780.  I believe it may have been fixed in the latest 344-series driver release.  So those aren't artifacts (artifacts sometimes look like crazy random polygons that pop up out of nowhere, more than they look like little white specks.... especially in Valley).  
 
Also, you are in the NORMAL bios (as shown by the 110% power max).  Put the switch to LN2 mode to get 5% more power availability (and a nice red light).  This BIOS is also the BIOS that you use - should you get brave - in flashing custom BIOSes on the GPU in order to completely unlock power limits (note: I do NOT condone this behavior, and I don't hold myself responsible if you create a very pretty brick by flashing the wrong BIOS).  Additionally, if you do unlock the power limit, a 750w PSU may not be enough to really let the Classified stretch its legs.  I myself have a Classy and I had an RM850, and I'm going to a Seasonic 1050 Platinum in order to allow the GPU to eat as much power as it needs.  
 
Lastly, it may just be that the GPU doesn't have "insane overclocking!" ability.  Mine only goes to 1098MHz Base / 1163MHz Boost, and max boost then becomes 1229MHz.  In light of people breaking 1300MHz on the core (on air) and seeing my relatively low limits, it just may be one of those cards.  If this is the case, then it's not a "bad" card in the sense of being defective, but it just doesn't handle OCs as well as its peers.  I had power at 1.26v, 150% Power Target, and it wouldn't even get to 1242MHz (the next stop up).  I stopped at that point because i didn't want to fry my PSU, my GPU, or my entire computer.  EVGA does have a "special BIOS" that they claim only works if you have an EVBot, but I noticed that my GPU is better behaved once I put it in (less idle temp, less load temps, etc.,).  I would contact ChrisB about it, and provide your Serial # for it.  
 
The classy is a wonderful card, OC'd or not OC'd.  Just because yours may not be one of those "epic monsters!", doesn't mean that what it does, it does better than almost any other 780 Ti out there (barring the KPE, a different animal in its own right).
 
Jason

Thank you for your response, i will be moving the switch to LN2 mode and see how much more i can get. The artifacts in Unigine Valley look like polygons, long and skinny. The 750w PSU i think is enough for one card with a mild OC, how would i know if it is not enough?. I had mine at 1090mhz base and 1980mhz memory with the old 4.2.1 precision x. Did you flash your bios on LN2? I am sorry for so many questions but i am new to GPU overclocking, i rather be safe than sorry and i think you can relate.
 
Thanks a ton!

You're artifacting.  
 
The RM-series from Corsair (I have an RM850), isn't really made for heavy OCing.  Factor in the fact that the Classified comes with a 144MHz OC relative to the reference version, has a 375w TDP (assuming no movement of the power target / voltage switches) versus the 250w TDP of the reference edition, and you begin to really stress out the PSU.  The PSU is made really for light OCing, corsair even states that on its power supply spreadsheet on its page.  To do insane OCs, with an unlocked BIOS, I would devote at least a 1000w PSU that's something like a EVGA gold / platinum (super-flower rebadge), an AX1200i / AX1500i (Flextronics Rebadges, both have digital signal processing and very low ripple), or a Seasonic XM3 1050w / 1250w or XP3 1050w / 1200w in order to ensure not only that you have sufficient power, but that the power being delivered to the OC'd components is clean and with as little variation in millivolts as possible.
 
My GPU is currently switched to LN2 mode, and it has the EVGA optional BIOS (I had to fight for it; you may have to as well, but document EVERYTHING, and do not be afraid to show EVGA its own words).  Also, your GPU Memory OC (1980 x 4) translates to 7.9GHz memory speeds.  That's an *EXTREMELY* high OC.  Lower that a bit (ie: from 1980 to 1800), and then you may even see fewer artifacts.  When you OC the memory, it makes more errors in its functions, and after a certain point, the errors become so great that it affects the functionality of the card.  Once that's lowered, then you can see if your GPU can go past 1,090MHz.  Some GPUs are great core-clock OCers and horrible memory OCers.  The name "classified" doesn't guarantee "super duper OCs", but rather that you have the potential to get super duper OCs if the card is right and you know what you're doing.  
 
Lower the memory OC to 1800, and then SLOWLY ramp up the GPU clocks.  You may have a 1300MHz monster, but are ruining it with an excessive VRAM overclock.  But do that once you get a PSU that's built for overclocking.
 
Jason