I finally went all in on a nice system for my car, including some sound dampening and wire upgrades. I just ordered everything yesterday and hope to have most of my stuff by the end of next week. A few things are going to be delayed since they have to be shipped direct from the manufacture, but here are my current system specifications.
 

• Front speakers: Pioneer TS-A1685R 6.5" 4 way speakers [Upgrading to: NVX V-Series 6.5" 2 way component] the luxury model of my car comes with tweeters in the doors where the mirrors are, so I went up to the local salvages and snagged some tweeter mounts and grills so I will have speakers pointing to my head rather than my feet where the mids do just fine at.
• Rear speakers: Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9" 5 way speakers [Upgrading to: NVX VSP69 6x9" 2 way.]
• Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS
• Subwoofer: SoundQubed HDS312 (1200w RMS 2400w max) currently in a ATREND 2.5SQ FT prefab "SPL" box till I make my own.
• Amplifiers: Hifonics Brutus Elite BE1700.1D and Jensen 760.4 (Until I can get something better for the 4 channels.)
• Wires: NVX 0/1 Gauge Silver Tinned wire all around, doing the big 3 and I will be running a it all the way to the amplifiers. I also went with NVX for my speaker wire, so I will be running 16 gauge OFC silver tinned wire all around as well. This wire should give me well over a 20% increase in power to my system due to less resistance from my current copper clad aluminum wire. Hopefully the big 3 upgrade will also increase my voltages.
• Sound Dampening: 100sq FT of Fat Mat 80mil for the trunk and doors. The trunk is almost complete, but I still need to go back through with a heat gun.

 
What are your system specifications? I'm curious what how many other car audio enthusiast there are here and what they've got or plan to get. It took me a long time to actually pull the trigger on this stuff. I decided to part with my RC truck, the Traxxas Summit and did these upgrades with that money.
 

Nice, those subs look pretty good. I've only had a Alpine Type R 8" sub, a little weaker than the Cadence. The best sub I've heard so far was a Digital Design 3500 10" sub with only 600w pushing it. I'd love to own one, but the price is too steep. I have not had the chance to hear any Crescendo speakers. From the looks of reviews, they put out some quality stuff.

RainStryke
Nice, those subs look pretty good. I've only had a Alpine Type R 8" sub, a little weaker than the Cadence. The best sub I've heard so far was a Digital Design 3500 10" sub with only 600w pushing it. I'd love to own one, but the price is too steep. I have not had the chance to hear any Crescendo speakers. From the looks of reviews, they put out some quality stuff.

They are single coil but man do they pack a punch for an 8.
Heres the box I built, finished today. White front, with carpeted sides and top. 

 
And yeah I love my crescendo speakers, get loud:) but I am nice with my music I only blare it on the highway, not in the city or through a neighbor hood. 

RainStryke
Nice looking box.
 
Yeah, about being nice, that's why I got the sound deadening, so people wouldn't hear my music when the windows are up. Can't really stop the bass though, that's always going to get through... I go through moods where I want a bunch of bass, then sometimes I just want some clean chill/relaxing music on my drive home from work.

Thanks:D it is tuned to 35hz. And the 8's love it:P 
 
And yeah I feel yeah man. I mean I just did the great stuff trick in my truck area and it helped with rattles a lot:P and I go through the same modes.
 
and this is the amp I will be getting. 
http://store.crescendoaudio.com/symphony-s1500-1/

I'm running 2 x Sundown SA-12s in a 5 cu ft ported box tuned low at 29Hz
 
CT Sounds AT1400.1d monoblock amp
 
Stock JBL premium speakers with factory amp (has awesome tweets and mids)
 
Extra battery next to the amp (both are Duralast Platinum AGM batteries) and an upgrade alternator (Mechman S Series 240 amp) for future power upgrades
 

 

 

 
P.S. that CT Sounds amp is downright LEGIT, as you can see... they put out 2400W Dynamic RMS with proper electrical... according to this amp test:
 

 
Here's me cranking the system up!
 

Nice setup Direraptor22. I have been looking around for a solid alternator for my Toyota Corolla. Mechman doesn't make one for my car. Seems my only option is a Singer alternator, which isn't bad. Just don't have the 409 dollars to spend on it at the moment. So i'm going to see how the big 3 handles my needs first.
 
I almost bought a SA-12 off of your recommendation from previous threads. But I saw soundqubed a while back and decided to give them a try. I'm not regretting the choice.
 
@Cameron1234, I see why you would be a bit of a fan boy of that brand, they seem to put out some badass products.

Rainstryke, Soundqubed is badass... no doubt. My buddy has two HDC415s in his truck (extended cab with backseats taken out). He runs about 5000W RMS and you can literally FEEL him more than a mile down the road! Sundown is also up there in the high end competition grade stuff. I'm happy with my SA-12s, since they are still Sundown's entry level gear and yet still handle power very well. My next upgrade is either gonna be HDC418s or Sundown X18 or ZV4 18s. Also, 1500W is too much for your stock alt, even with big 3. Unless you put some beefy batteries in there... it won't hold up too well. You will experience big voltage drops. Save up and get a Singer alt they make good stuff
 
RushXTC, get rid of that capacitor LOL

RushXTC
DieRaptor, Why? I needed it because when I had my 2007, The build was weaker and it still made the lights dim a bit and I hated it.
 
Plus, I got it for the same reason why I got 1/0 AWG wiring. Future proofing it, So that all I have to change is amplifier and subwoofers each time I upgrade.

Capacitors are useless, they don't help your light dimming. Get an extra battery.
 
It's "DIRE" not "DIE" lol

direraptor22

RushXTC
DieRaptor, Why? I needed it because when I had my 2007, The build was weaker and it still made the lights dim a bit and I hated it.
 
Plus, I got it for the same reason why I got 1/0 AWG wiring. Future proofing it, So that all I have to change is amplifier and subwoofers each time I upgrade.

Capacitors are useless, they don't help your light dimming. Get an extra battery.
 
It's "DIRE" not "DIE" lol

 
you could not be more wrong. i have seen people run only maxwell capacitors in there daily drivers vs running more batteries. 6 capacitors = one battery basically. same power handling just way way less weight. 
 
ive also seen guys burp over a 168db on capacitors only at finals. maxwell ultra caps will make batteries a thing of the past. 

I can't believe they still sell capacitors for car audio after all these years. They should never be used in car audio and actually add additional strain to your system and can starve your amp and put nore stress on your alternator. A larger alternator first and then a secondary battery second if required.....lol you cannot replace a car battery with capacitors.

also they would get setup like this. saw this truck at finals also in 2013. truck is called , the black nasty.
 

 

Violence.
also they would get setup like this. saw this truck at finals also in 2013. truck is called , the black nasty.
 

 

 
It is not running off nothing but capacitors.  What would be the voltage source lol.  I say a minimum 2 alternators to feed all those pigs lol.  Without an input voltage nothing would happen......it is the alternators that are doing most of the work.
 
Also, in a typical car stereo install the reason a capacitor is a terrible idea is because while a capacitor discharges extremely quickly it takes more than twice as long to recharge it which steals power from the amps.  The reason lights stop dimming in cars with capacitors is that the cap is acting like a buffer for the accessories in front of it, like the lights.....while the amps get the short end of the stick.
 
There is no benefit in running a cap in a regular 2 -3 amp car audio application.

direraptor22
Beefy alternators + beefy batteries are all you need. Capacitors are just for show!
 
My buddy has a 370 amp Singer alt in his truck, along with an XS Power D3100 and D975 running his two AQ2200.1D with no light dimming at all, stable voltages.

I was actually thinking about getting an XS Power just so I don't have to worry about it in the future as well.... But then again, I think when I get my Mach 1 I'll do the full set up there. (I know, I want the Mach 1 for speed, But I really can't live without bass).

It's coming along slowly, got my trunk finished, the big 3 upgrade, my power wire routed and rear speakers set up and wired for the AMP. Just need to wire and install my front mids, tweets after I install the sound dampening in the doors. All I got left from there is redo my remote wire and RCA cables.

Here are a few pics:

Nice! Can't wait to see it once it's all done!!