agent8
After A LOT of extensive research, I have narrowed it down to the Rockford Fosgates and the Kickers.
http://www.crutchfield.co...ate-Prime-R1525X2.html
I did check out some infinity's and a few other brands but I kept going back to these two.
 
The Kickers seem to have better specs but for about $15 bucks more, I can get 4 of the Rockford Fosgates to match them all up and have 2 in the hatch as well. The hatch ones now are fine but it would be cool if they were timbre matched. Of course, I probably won't notice those speakers way in the back that much anyway. Not sure what to do. Not like it's that much money but I like to make the right decision the first time...

agent8
Ok, RainStryke, if it was almost any other forum member, I would blow your recommendation off. You have "street cred" in here and I know you are pretty knowledgeable so why not. I can't find too much info on these speakers because they are new but the people that do have them, love them so when I get home, I will pull the trigger.
 
But, I am warning you, If I spend $50 on these speakers and If they suck, I am going to log on to Evga, find this thread and send you a big thumbs down GIF, and maybe I will throw in an angry emoticon while I'm at it.
Thanks

nateman_doo
I have been out of the game for some years, but I can tell you find the amp with the largest RMS power, lowest THD, and don't worry about the wattage of the speaker.  I have pushed 4K through a single tweeter for a short while.  My point is a speaker will handle tremendous power, as long as its clean power.  I saw someone mentioned clipping.  That is basically when your speaker output (as seen on an Oscilloscope) looks like square waves, instead of clean sine waves.

SethH

fusionssl
its always best practice to match your amp and speaker rms power ratings as closely as possible, you will not achieve the speakers full range if you over or under power it.

 

fusionssl
you can also cause damage to the speaker running them below and over there rms rating 

Over RMS rating, yes. Under, no. In that case, any time you lower the volume you'd risk damaging it. The RMS rating is a "max" kind of like an RPM. Your car has a max RPM of say 9000. You can do anything under it just fine (the lower the RPM though, obviously the less performance - in the audio case it'd be decibels/loudness) but if you go over,
 

SethHIf you run a speaker/sub out of its rated RMS range, you void warranty. If you run an amp below its rated Impedance, you void warranty.

Of course you can go higher than what it's rated for. If you have a huge sealed box, you can't do nearly as much power as one that's a lot smaller, etc.

If you have a ported box, then it really comes down to box tuning along with enclosure size.

Then you can get into 4th order, 6th order, bandpass, etc. and things get wonky. If you're not an expert or don't have a lot of experience, stick to rated RMS. And if you're doing any 3 listed above, at that point you probably have AGM batteries, a bigger alternator, big 3 upgrade, etc. anyways and know what you're doing.

fusionssl
its always best practice to match your amp and speaker rms power ratings as closely as possible, you will not achieve the speakers full range if you over or under power it.
you can also cause damage to the speaker running them below and over there rms rating 
 
I have just completed a full install in my Vw Multivan of focal speakers and sub powered by 1 alpine pdr75 75w rms as the speakers are 75w rms its extremely load if wanted but always powerful