I decided to upgrade the sound system in my car, and finally all the parts have arrived.  My goal is to have a system worthy of Sound Quality competition.  I figured I would share it here.  I thought about installing it all myself, by I'm not fabricator.  Not to mention it is starting to get really hot here and I don't want to do that all in the heat.  So, I'm looking to have a shop do it and I'm shopping for the best shop and the best price.
 
Ok, Now on to the fun stuff, the parts.
 

 
From the factory head unit the signal will be running to the JBL MS-8 DSP for signal processing which will do time and phase alignments and give me a 31 band EQ.

 
The MS-8 will give me pre amp outputs for connecting to my external amplifiers.  The first one is the JBL GTO-804ez which is 80w x 4.  I will be actively bi-amping the front stage using the MS-8 to set the crossover frequencies.

 
The GTO-804ez will be powering a pair of JBL's 60th Anniversary 660GTI Competition Component Speakers

 
These things came in a beautiful aluminum case that I will re-purpose when they are installed.

 
The MS-8 will also be sending it's signal to the JBL GTO-1001ez to run the subs.

 
For my subs, I chose the newly released JBL S3-1224 12" subs.  

 
They are replacing my old Kicker CVR-12's.  Here you can see just how much bigger they are.  And my Buddy Thor.

 
And a few other pieces I'll be using in the install.  A Hooker 1/0 distribution block, and the volume control knob for the sub amp.  I may not need the volume knob because the MS-8 should give me that control, but it was cheap so I figured why not.

 
 
 

Here's a review of the mid bass driver in this set basically saying that it is the best one they've ever reviewed. http://medleysmusings.com...gti-midwoofer-testing/

Yes, yes. That kicker is just right for you. You know I have two of those and they can be yours for a modest sum. Lol.

I'm thinking about reverse mounting my subs in the trunk because the box would be smaller for the same airspace and the back of these subs loom awesome. My only concern is if there would be any loss of output or sound quality as a result. Perhaps some of you could shed some light on this for me? Here is a pic of the back of the sub, what do you think?

Reverse mounting is for advanced users, I wouldn't recommend it. I have seen a lot of novice/moderate builders try that and not really like the outcome. I've heard a lot of successful reverse mounting sound pretty well in bandpass boxes though.

RushXTC
Nice, 1 of my 12" sub died earlier this week, I give up. I'm going to sell everything I have for $300... lol.
 
Even though I paid so much more for everything.

IIRC you have diamond subs. Even if that sub is dead, the motor is still worth a good amount because people recone those subs. Recone isn't what it sounds like... a new cone comes with a new wound coil on it and you can change the impedance. Sounds like you just need to get a new box to put one sub in and you should be fine... Also, if you have a sub that blows out on you, it's always from distortion. When you set your gains too high it causes distortion that heats up the coil on the sub and makes it's seize. Depending on how you set up your head unit's bass output, your gains might be too high at even 10% also depending on the amplifier you are using.

hahaha... Yeah, I couldn't pay for someone to do my install either... professionally that is. If you are on Facebook, you can try to join local "swap and shop" groups and put in a request for a car audio installer. Sometimes you can get some people that used to work for shops and started working on their own. They are a lot cheaper and usually just as good.
 
A lot of guys use that KnuKonceptz cable. Unless you are buying for future upgrades, 4 gauge OFC is all you really need for your current build... A lot of companies sell "oversized" wire anyway... Knu is one of them. 0/1 gauge is for big builds, like 5Kw+.

You can always build a sweet isobaric sub enclosure. They are far from common these days, but purform well if designed correctly, save space, and can really sound amazing.

RainStryke

Tweaked
Can you show me the math or a site that says I only need 4 gauge?

They rate their kits in amps. The 4 gauge one is rated for 150A. Which is exactly the maximum amount of amps your two amplifiers together can pull.

Its under their FAQ "how many watts"
http://www.knukonceptz.co...fier-installation-kit/

I'm getting 195 total amps, and the next gauge they have is 0.

GTO-1001ez= 120a
GTO-804ez = 50a
MS-8. =25a

Tweaked
Well I just got the shock of a lifetime. I went to a couple of high end shops in tow to get estimates for custom install, and both quoted me between $3500 and $3800. I guess I'll be doing this myself.

On that note, have any of you guys heard of KnuKonceptz power cables? They seem to have the best price on 1/0 gauge OFC cable at $3.65/ft.

 
all i used to use was knu konceptz. very good stuff. there higher end rca cables are what you will need also. stay away from the cheaper cables. all you will need is KNU. real flexy and really nice stuff. avoid CCA cable at all costs. its junk. OFC wins everytime. 

SHCA wire is also pretty cheap and well known for their RCA cables as well.
 
OFC:
http://skyhighcaraudio.net/catalog#category=ofc-powerground-wire-by-the-foot
 
RCA:
http://skyhighcaraudio.net/rca

Tweaked
Yes, yes. That kicker is just right for you. You know I have two of those and they can be yours for a modest sum. Lol.

Well sure I got 5 bux! :D

I just ordered all the parts I need for power from Knu. Next I'll order my speaker wire from Monoprice.

Well, I decided to have a shop do the install for me.  It just got too big for me.  I don't have the time and I've list the inclination to do it myself.  I found a shop that gave me a good price for the install.  They were supposed to be done today and I was anxious to pick up my car.  However as I pulled into work this morning, I got a call saying they needed more time.  Probably late tomorrow.  I also changed the subs from the JBL's to a pair of Infinity Kappa 120.9w's.  On paper, they are better subs that those JBL's.  

nateman_doo

Tweaked
Well I just got the shock of a lifetime. I went to a couple of high end shops in tow to get estimates for custom install, and both quoted me between $3500 and $3800. I guess I'll be doing this myself.

On that note, have any of you guys heard of KnuKonceptz power cables? They seem to have the best price on 1/0 gauge OFC cable at $3.65/ft.

cables are cables.  They are all made from copper.  Dont every let anyone tell you any different.  I did Car audio installs for MANY years, IASCA world finals, and DB Drag finals.  In my honest opinion... welding cable.  its cheap and you can get it as thick as you want.  Dont also get fooled with fancy RCA cables, you dont need to go crazy with them.  The thicker the wire the better they will be insulated.  Also divide your wire runs into 3.  Power on the drivers sill, RCA's up the middle (trans hump), and speakers on the passenger side. 
 
As for reverse mounting subs... I dont think there is too much a difference in SQ since bass is omni-directional, but one thing to consider is the weight distribution.  You now have a cantilever system, since you now have all that weight hanging when it would normally be centered on the interior of the enclosure and the box may rock whenever you accel/stop... and not metaphorically either.  
 
Box, go ported.  I wish you were local I would love to help you with the build.  I would do it just for fun.  its been a while since I did a system like that.

 
CCA cable is copper coated aluminum. ive cut it open and saw how much copper is not there. Which is why my last build was all welding cable. All 4/0. Was cheaper with the amount of wire i had by a long shot.