AHowes

Sajin

AHowes
Meaning?? Voltage controller is unstable at that current voltage and is recommended to lower voltage for stability correct? Meaning it can't run whatecer speeds it is cause the voltage controller can't or is programed incorrectly or faulty right? Or something in the path is not good.

Also runing in overclocked mode in debug I don't get the temp or power limit at 1 like usual. Still wont run without lock ups at max voltage at 2000+. Not that I care. I'm only trying to get a stable clock like the first card that would never move cause of limits going off.

Voltage controller isn't unstable. I'm pretty sure the vbios on the card is set to limit voltage at 1.050v. So once you hit 1.050v it causes voltage limit 1.

Not on my first card. That classified 1080 never shows a 1 ever for any limit.

Debug mode give me 0 control over the voltages.. gona try and see how low I can run the voltage to see if that matters any.

What happens when you set your perfect 1080 to 1.093v? Does it show voltage limit 1?

Sajin

AHowes

Sajin

AHowes
Meaning?? Voltage controller is unstable at that current voltage and is recommended to lower voltage for stability correct? Meaning it can't run whatecer speeds it is cause the voltage controller can't or is programed incorrectly or faulty right? Or something in the path is not good.

Also runing in overclocked mode in debug I don't get the temp or power limit at 1 like usual. Still wont run without lock ups at max voltage at 2000+. Not that I care. I'm only trying to get a stable clock like the first card that would never move cause of limits going off.

Voltage controller isn't unstable. I'm pretty sure the vbios on the card is set to limit voltage at 1.050v. So once you hit 1.050v it causes voltage limit 1.

Not on my first card. That classified 1080 never shows a 1 ever for any limit.

Debug mode give me 0 control over the voltages.. gona try and see how low I can run the voltage to see if that matters any.

What happens when you set your perfect 1080 to 1.093v? Does it show voltage limit 1?

Nope.. never.

AHowes
Nope.. never.

Hmm. Looks like the 3rd card is just junk then like the others you received or the software is giving incorrect readings.

Wait.. so far I'm able to test at lower voltage. Letso me get to 1.025v at +50 and yup still voltage 1.

Tried lower at +50 and it will just go to 1.063v. Will try +25 and see if it let's me go lower voltage.

Nope.. can't go lower.but atleast I know during the load screen of the physics test it runs at .875v and there's no voltage limit 1.. it's 0! Shocking.

Scarlet-Tech

AHowes

Sajin
How many times are you going to make a thread about this? 

http://forums.evga.com/He...-it-mean-m2549888.aspx

http://forums.evga.com/St...assified-m2549362.aspx

No one seen it in the other one.. and this is also a whole different card.. card 3.

 
You should contain all of the same issues for your system to one thread. There is no need to create a new thread for each card of the same model number that you purchase.  This is not really a "New Card" as it is still a 1080 Classified.  If it were a 1080 FTW, FE, SC, or reference, then it would be a "New Card" and a new problem, but you are referring to the same model number and everything.  Any further threads will all be combined so that the issue with one card can be tracked.  Please keep your posts together. 
 

Ok no problem.. just figured no one is seeing the thread in the software forum so I started one in the 1080 section since it is a 1080 issue.

Should of deleted the old thread. No idea if one has the option so if you can just delete the thread in the software forum.

Scarlet-Tech
Every card is going to react different.  Plenty of FE cards can hit the same clocks as the classifieds, and plenty of classifieds are limited to much lower clocks.  This is the silicon lottery, and it isn't always perfect.  Classified cards are tested the exact same way reference cards are to verify they work at their specified clocks.  Unfortunately, that does not guarantee that you are going to get perfect overclocks.  
 
For voltages, you should get a probe it cable, and test the true voltages with a multimeter rather than looking at the software.  Software has never been quite right, and may never be able to properly read the voltage. 

Understand fully but the last 2 seem faulty to me.. if it was just a overclock limit as always like I've experienced with the last 10 1080 cards then yeah.. no issue run the 2 cards in sli at the lower clocks. I just don't want a custom card that allows for more power for more stable clocks being dynamically lowered by a issue with voltage limit going off all the time.. even at stock clocks. If that's going to happen I might as well buy the fe card.

I've had another custom card the zotac and it was great. The amp edition. With just 1 in there it ran around 50-56c and was stable around 2088mhz. Was the first set of 1080s I bought. But once I added the 2nd the temps went out the window. Upper 60s to 71c. No thanks. Point is the clocks were stable! Custom card with dual 8 pins connections unlike the fe cards I bought next to deal with the heat.

The pny 1080 fe cards were better clockers. Ran 2114mhz.. the best of the 2. Tempts in the 50-56c in sli. But super loud runing 85-100 fans to help keep the clocks up. Would jo jo all over the place.

Bought water blocks for them so I didn't care about sound atm. Then once I read there policy changed this year stating no water cooling I had to return them ans went with good old evga that is fine with heatsink removal ( as always )and water cooling.

Then I had the chance for the ftw hybrids.. much cheaper solution over custom water cooling so I had to snag it and please the wife.. no problem.. didn't open the water cooling andidn't returnespecially the cards.. someone got some good cards as they would play 2124+ mhz.

Then the whole black screen issue with the ftw 1080 effected my hybrid ftw cards. :/ seriously?? So now I'm returning those to evga andon't i had to snag the classifieds..

Long story.. point. Custom pcb cards are the way to go but maybe I may have to return the single golden classified since the odds of me getting another normal card are 1 in 3. Prob be banned from the store after this return.

AHowes

EVGA_JacobF
Its normal, since frequency is tied to voltage what it means you need to your voltage, try setting voltage 100%. if still showing 1, increase frequency offset to force a higher voltage stepping.

Ok so if it's saying voltage limit 1 while runing the cards defaults "stock" and it's runing ingredients 1975mhz at 1.065v and that's not enough then I guess it's prob a bad card if it needs that much voltage.

And I can't wait to get home to test it with max voltage at that 1975.. cause if it don't go away wow.

I also believe I was able to lower the voltage at a certain mhz to get it voltage limit to 0.

It means that the voltage is limiting the frequency from boosting higher on that particular card. Its not bad, actually it is totally normal. All cards are different and have different voltage levels. You either need to force a higher voltage stepping via manual offset, or try setting voltage to 100%.
 
But, as mentioned above, you may have hit the max voltage for your card already, and thus will not be able to go higher.

Just ran a bench at 2190 with members at default and it finished it. Valid score only 17600 something. Tried +200 and it ran at 2215mhz! Though for only a few mins at 1.084v. So I tried lowering the voltage and it froze up quicker. Oh well.

Anyways so far I've found high mhz on the ram don't help this card bench higher.. also high overclock on the core don't help much either in your score. Prob beat it with a fe card at 2114.

Still testing..

Forgot to add. No limits tripped the whole time still. Prob should show a limit but it wont. I'll take it though haha.. keeps my clocks up from dropping.

4th classified is good! No limits at 1 so 0 down clocking of the core just like my first card. Default out of the box will run 2025mhz at 1.43v and climbs slowly to 1.05v i believe. Almost ran a bench at 2190mhz at 1.093v but locks up after 5 mins or so. 2164mhz is fine at 1.081v.

All that is just icing on top of the cake.. just looking for a card that would match my first one with no limits going off (1) and dropping my clocks. Bench as high as possable but gaming I'll keep them at 2050-2100.

So 2 out of 4 was good in the end. The new one was a scary 7 numbers higher then the last one! Was bummed when I seen that thinking there was a bad batch or something. So as the saying goes.. ya never know what your going to get. Ea chip is totally different and it's all silicon lottery.

So the hunt is over finally.. hopefully they don't cook eachother with 1 slot in between but I'm sure it will happen if the first card will max out at 59c after an hour of witcher 3.

Only flaw on the 2nd card I found so far is that the max the ram wants to do before artifacts is +500. At 600 I get slight screen flashing every now and then. The first card will run around 900+ almost 12k! No big deal. Water cooling may fix that but crap would cost me another $260 for ek blocks and $34 for a bridge and another $80 for a 120.3 rad. Wife won't let me. Could go custom old school swiftech universal vga water blocks and just keep the black aluminum plate on there to cool the mem and vreg and point a powerful fan at the end of the cards but I feel it's risky.. though the overkill 14.3 phase controller does as I've read run much cooler but cool enough?

True.. very true. Even down clocking the core -200mhz in debug mode runing 1600+ mhz the voltage 1 would be there waiting for me at anything over .875v.

With the osd up I could watch it and during bench load screens it would be 0 for the limit at .875v but as soon as it starting runing voltage limit 1!!

No good with these 2 in sli. The first card is cooking at 65c.

Sajin
Glad to hear your problem is resolved. 65c is far from cooking.

True.. but that's just a 10 mins loop of firestrike graphics test 2 loop. Prob see 70+ in a long normal gaming session.

I slapped a fan on top of the 2 cards in the middle. My mb is horizontal in my thermaltake core x9. So I have it sacking the heat off the cards blowing the heat up to the exhaust fans. With that I get around 60c. Don't look or sound good though hah.

Going to clock them at 2100 and see how low I can go on the voltage to see how much it lowers the temps if any.

I'm having the same issue as the OP. Should i just take this card back to Microcenter (I got it as an open box deal) and get another one or is it not the small difference in OC really worth  going through the exchange process.

I just notice whenever the voltage goes above 1.050 it the power limit shows 1 immediately. I'm guessing the voltage goes up with no OC because of that boost thingy. The card will be returned in the am.